The Holy Roman Empire, Habsburg, Vorderösterreich and the Confederation

This article looks at the relationship between Vorderösterreich (Outer Austria/Anterior Austria) and the Confederation. Additionally, it serves as preparation for a more differentiated follow-up article on the Swabian War of 1499 (also known as the Swiss War or Engadine War, depending on one’s perspective). The circumstances, actions and conflicts of that time can only be understood in the context of the somewhat entangled history.

For this reason, this article is written in general terms; the relationships and roles of France, the Dukes of Bavaria, Savoy, Burgundy, Lorraine, Milan, the Margraves of Baden and other state entities are not considered. However, they also influenced the balance of power between Vorderösterreich and the Confederation, as well as its towns and cantons. 

The Holy Roman Empire, around. 1400. Image: Ziegelbrenner/Wikipedia

Holy Roman Empire 

Looking at the current borders of France, Germany, Switzerland and Austria today, it is hard to imagine that the situation of territories and dependencies was utterly different 500 years ago.

The Holy Roman Empire (in the 16th century, also referred to as the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation for the sake of precision) was founded in 962 under the Ottonian dynasty, with Otto I (912-973) as the first Holy Roman Emperor. It was the successor to the Carolingian Empire, which was divided in 843 by the Treaty of Verdun.

Various dynasties (including Ottonian, Salian, Hohenstaufen, Wittelsbach, Luxembourg and Habsburg) provided the emperors and kings of the Empire. The seven electors of the Holy Roman Empire elected the king and Emperor.

Basel, the cathedral (das Münster). Emperor Henry II (973-1024) and Empress Kunigunde (975-1040). The originals are in the Museum Kleines Klingental.

This election was regulated in the Golden Bull of 1356. The Pope anointed the Emperor. From 1440 to 1806, the Habsburgs held the titles of emperor and king in succession, almost without interruption. 1555, the Empire was divided into a Spanish branch (1555-1700) and an Austrian branch (1555-1918). Vorderösterreich fell under the Austrian branch.

The Goldene Bulle, Image: Wikipedia

The Emperor was the highest authority in the Holy Roman Empire. The Imperial Diet was the legislature, the Imperial Chamber Court (in Worms, Speyer and finally in Wetzlar) and the Court Council in Vienna were the highest courts. The (tax) laws and ‘foreign judges’ of the Empire were also the basis for the ‘Swabian War’.

This article deals with the Habsburg territory in Vorderösterreich, distinguishing it from the Habsburg territories in Inner Austria (Duchies of Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Mark), Lower Austria (Duchy of Austria), and Upper Austria (the so-called Erblande), as well as the County of Tyrol (a Habsburg possession since 1379).

Until 1753, Vorderösterreich was not a political entity but comprised many political units. Initially, part of present-day Switzerland also belonged to this territory.

Habsburg and the Swiss Confederation 

The Swiss Confederation developed during the late 13th and 14th centuries. In 1513, it consisted of 13 sovereign cantons that were frequently at odds with one another. Although the Confederation formally remained part of the Empire until 1648, it had already de facto ceased recognising its supreme authorities two centuries earlier. The refusal and cessation to pay certain taxes demonstrated this in concrete terms.

The Habsburgs lost territories and influence in a series of conflicts: 1315, 1386, 1388, 1415 (conquest of the Aargau, except for the Fricktal, Rheinfelden, and Laufenburg), 1460 (conquest of the Thurgau), and finally in 1499 during the Swabian War. 

Basel, Rudolf Wettstein statue, Basler negotiator and diplomat at the Peace of Westphalia

In the 15th century, successive Habsburg emperors attempted to reconquer the Swiss territories. However, the ‘Eternal Direction’ (1474), the lost ‘Swabian War’ and the Peace of Basel (1499) ended almost two centuries of war with the Peace of Westphalia (1648) as international (de facto) recognition of the Confederation.

Vorderösterreich, Breisgau around 1725

Vorderösterreich and its political role 

From 1499, Vorderösterreich encompassed the area from the Arlberg to Alsace (including Sundgau), the Fricktal, the four Waldstätte towns (Säckingen, Waldshut, Laufenburg, and Rheinfelden), Breisgau, and regions in Lorraine, Swabia, Bavaria, and the Black Forest.

From 1499, Vorderösterreich encompassed the area from the Arlberg to Alsace (including Sundgau), the Fricktal, the four Waldstätte towns (Säckingen, Waldshut, Laufenburg, and Rheinfelden), Breisgau, and regions in Lorraine, Swabia, Bavaria, and the Black Forest.

Ensisheim (Alsace) was the administrative centre of Vorderösterreich from 1444 to 1638. Freiburg, however, was the most important economic, religious (diocese) and cultural centre with a university (1457). The Basel chapter (until 1679) and Erasmus (until 1535) sought refuge in Fribourg in 1529 because of the Reformation.

Breisgau, Münster

Wars and territorial changes 

From the 16th century onwards, France and Bavaria became threats to the Habsburgs’ possessions in the Austrian Forelands. The Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) and the Dutch War (1672-1678, Peace of Nijmegen) led to territorial losses (Alsace, Sundgau, Breisgau, Freiburg) to France. During this time, the provincial government of Vorderösterreich was based in Waldshut and the university was temporarily housed in Constance.

Neuenburg am Rhein

The Peace of Rijswijk (1697) ended the War of the Palatinate Succession (1688-1697). Alsace (and Strasbourg) remained with France, while Freiburg and Breisach returned to Habsburg. During the War of the Spanish Succession (1701-1714), the towns of Neuchâtel on the Rhine, Breisgau, Villingen and Freiburg were again occupied by French troops and (again) plundered.

In the Peace of Rastatt (1714), these towns reverted to the Habsburgs. During a new war (the Austrian War of Succession, 1740-1748), France again occupied Freiburg and returned it after the Peace of Aachen (1748).

Freiburg, building of merchants, around 1530

Neuf-Brisach

Reforms

In 1753, Empress/Regent Maria Theresa (1717-1780) and Joseph II reorganised and reformed the administrative system. The previously fragmented Vorderösterreich became the political unit of the province of Vorderösterreich.

This was due to the rise of another threat: Prussia. From 1753 to 1806, during the last phase of Habsburg rule, Freiburg was once again the administrative centre of the province of Vorderösterreich. After 1789, however, the threat again came from the French side.

Vorderösterreich, a. 1790. Image: Karte: Hauptstaatsarchiv Stuttgart, Vorderösterreich in alten Karten und Plänen, Begleitheft zu Ausstellung Stuttgart, 1998

Dissolution of Vorderösterreich 

In 1803, Napoleon assigned the Fricktal, Laufenburg, and Rheinfelden to the canton of Aargau, with the Rhine as the border. In 1806, Vorderösterreich ceased to exist as part of the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire. The remaining territories of Vorderösterreich fell to the Kingdom of Bavaria, the Grand Duchy of Baden, the Kingdom of Württemberg, and the Austrian Empire. It meant that Vorderösterreich was a thing of the past for the Confederation.

Rheinfelden (kanton Aargau)

Aftermath

Or not quite. The village of Büsingen lies in the centre of the canton of Schaffhausen. The Habsburgs never wanted to cede the town to the canton. The village was then annexed to the Grand Duchy of Baden and subsequently to the federal state of Baden-Württemberg, despite a referendum in 1918, in which 96% of the inhabitants voted to join the Swiss Confederation.

There is a parallel with Vorarlberg: in 1919, 81% of the inhabitants wanted to join the Swiss Confederation. Switzerland did not like this for various reasons. Almost a tiny part of Vorderösterreich had joined the Confederation after 1918!

Incidentally, the Habsburg presence in the new canton of Graubünden lasted until 1803 (Tarasp) and 1819 (Rhäzuns). This area was administered from Innsbruck.

And yet, the Habsburg presence was not over. As early as the 13th and 14th centuries, the Habsburgs focused on Basel as a residence and administrative centre. However, this did not materialise.

Basel, Cathedral

Bern

Eugen Ferdinand Pius Bernhard Felix Maria, the Archduke of Habsburg (1863-1954), lived in a suite in the Hotel Les Trois Rois in Basel from 1919 to 1934. He was a nephew of Karl von Habsburg (1887-1922), the last Emperor of the Habsburg Empire. He bid farewell to Basel in style in 1934, also on behalf of his ancestors, and Basel bid him farewell with the city’s highest honours.

The cathedral also houses the (empty) sarcophagus of Gertrud Anna von Hohenberg (1225-1281), the wife of Rudolf I (1218-1291), the first German-Roman king of the dynasty. The name Habsburg remains associated with Basel, the cathedral, and Switzerland.

Emperor Karl and Empress Zita (1892-1989), Austria’s last empress, were dethroned after a reign of only two years. After 1919, they lived in exile. After Emperor Karl died in 1922, Empress Zita raised her eight children, including Otto von Habsburg (1912-2011), on her own. She lived in Zizers (canton of Graubünden) for 27 years, from 1962 until she died in 1989.

Conclusion 

Relations between the Confederation and Vorderösterreich remained peaceful after 1499. Calm returned, mainly as other (religious) conflicts arose.

Although the Swabian War marked the final spiritual and de facto separation, trade, universities (Freiburg, Constance, Basel), language (Alemannic), and personal contacts remained a solid basis for cooperation.

Despite the numerous conflicts that occurred before and after 1648, the coats of arms of the Holy Roman Empire and the Habsburg dynasty were often not removed from public spaces. The prestige and respect for the Holy Roman Empire, the Emperor and the (German-Roman) King were such.

Breisach

(Source: D. Speck, Kleine Geschichte Vorderösterreichs, Leinfelden-Echterdingen, 2010; Uri Robert Kaufmann (Red.), Die Schweiz und der deutsche Südwesten, Ostfildern, 2006; Arzner, B. Oeschger, J. Scharf-Anderegg (Red.), Nachbarn am Hochrhein, Möhlin 2002; A. Jochim, F. Hanöffner (red.), Die Habsburger im Mittelalter. Aufstieg einer Dynastie, Speyer 2022)

Kleinlützel, Lucelle, Felsplatte and European History

Where there is a (Grand-) Lucelle or (Gross-) Lützel, there is also a Kleinlützel, Petit-Lucelle (Solothurn canton). Lucelle (France) is a town in the Sundgau (Alsace) and borders the canton of Jura.

Kleinlützel 

Habsburg, France, the diocese of Basel, and successive German states (1871-1918, 1940-1945) contested this region for centuries. A Roman road between Kleinlützel, Burg, and Röschenz and the pass over the Blaubergkette points to the region’s importance for trade and passenger traffic. The numerous castles in the area, including the ruined Blauenstein, also bear witness to this.

Röschenz (Canton of Basel-Landschaft), in the background the Passwang and other mountains

The castle (Burg) in the village of Burg, in the background, the Sundgau (France)

The women’s convent, Minor Lucella, was founded in 1136. The convent belonged to the abbey in Lucelle. This convent was destroyed in the Schwabenkrieg (1499) and the peasant uprisings (1525). Only the Chapel and a utility building remain.

In 1527, Solothurn bought Kleinlützel and the surrounding area. France acquired the Sundgau and Lucelle in 1648, but this separation did not harm the natural beauty of the region.

A chapel near Kleinlützel

Two Gemsen near Kleinlützel

Moreover, in a few kilometres, centuries-old influences and domination from the Habsburg Empire, the Bishop of Basel, Solothurn, France, and, after 1871, successive German states are evident.

The Landskron (France)

The Felsplatte from World War I and World War II illustrates the proximity of the German-administered Sundgau (1871-1918 and 1940-1945) to France and Germany.

During the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), soldiers from Solothurn took up their positions here to observe the war in Sundgau. The viewpoint, then known as Plattenfels, gained fame throughout the country during World War I. The men’s hut still exists. The Felsplatte was brought back into use in 1939, equipped with guns, other weapons, and soldiers.

The rock (Fels)

And the Felsplatte overlooking the Sundgau

Fortunately for the Confederation, however, the Felsplatte did not become a Westerplatte (Gdansk).

The Westerplatte, commemoration of 1 September 1939

The Swiss Alpine Club

The Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC/Club Alpin Suisse, CAS) organises regular hikes in this area and elsewhere in the country.

The SAC organises ski tours, mountain climbing, and other sports in the high mountains and the Alps, as well as hiking activities in other regions.

Not the top of the Mount Everest, but a hiking group of the SAC near Kleinlützel

(Source and further information: Gemeinde Kleinlützel)

Mariastein Monastery, in the background, the towers of Roche in Basel, the Schwarzwald and the Felsberg (Baden-Württemberg)

Metzerlen-Mariastein

Switzerland, Churchill, Bowring, Toblerones and the European Union

British aristocrats were the first mountaineers in Switzerland and introduced winter sports (through a bet with the founder of the Kulm Hotel in St Moritz). Such was the enthusiasm that the world’s first Alpine Club was founded in London in 1857, followed in 1863 by the Schweizer Alpen Club (SAC)/Club alpine suisse (CAS).

Churchill and Switzerland

The greatest Briton of all time and saviour of European civilisation (‘1940 hat Churchill gerettet Europa‘, Willy Bretscher in 1971, editor-in-chief of the Neue Zürcher Zeitung during the Second World War) was one of them.

Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill (1874-1965) climbed Monte Rosa and several other mountains, and visited Switzerland on several occasions (1893, 1894, 1904, 1906, 1910) during his younger years. During these (lengthy) stays, he got to know and appreciate the country, as did other compatriots before and after him.

Sir John Bowring (1792-1872). Devonshire Association

The British banker Sir Ernest Cassel (1852-1921) was his host in the summers of 1904, 1906, and 1910 at his Villa Cassel on the Riederfurka, in the area of the Aletsch glacier (canton Valais).

Moreover, through publications by English writers, Churchill became aware of Swiss history and political development.

Most people know Churchill as a relatively sedate and cigar-smoking politician in his sixties during World War II. In his younger years, however, he was an active sportsman, with activities including horse riding, polo, and hiking. He also played bridge, albeit not always with good experience:

“I can’t tell you how much I hate losing money with bridge. It’s a complicated game, especially if you’re a bad player with lousy cards in your hand”.

His literary, journalistic, military, and political career, eloquence, and historical knowledge are well known. His (brief) training and activity as a bricklayer and career as an amateur painter also deserve attention. He was proud of the stone barn and wall he built in 1928 on his Chartwell estate in Kent.

His painting career began in 1915 on the Flanders battlefield, following one of his lowest political moments. The Swiss artist and art collector Charles (Carl) Montag (1880-1956) supported and educated him.

Winston Churchill, View of Chartwell, 1938. Front cover, The National Trust, Chartwell, 1992

Moreover, Swiss staff worked preferentially at Chartwell until he died in 1965. He also published articles in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung (and media in other countries).

Churchill was a child of the English Victorian establishment and the 19th century. The anachronistic commentary of some of today’s opinion makers, journalists and historians says something about the present-day understanding of the (recent) past.

Besides his many (human) qualities, Churchill also had shortcomings, mistakes, and misjudgments. Still, even years before the outbreak of World War II (1939-1945) and after the communist coup in Russia at the end of World War I (1914-1918), he had the right political and moral compass.

He foresaw not only communist terror, its economic mismanagement and cultural nihilism in 1918 but also National Socialist barbarism in the 1920s and 1930s. He was aware of the danger that threatened neutral countries, including Switzerland.

Prague, Náměstí Winstona Churchilla (Winston Churchill Square), 1999, a replica of the original from 1976 by Ivor Robert-Jones (1913-1996), which stands in Parliament Square in London. The unveiling of the statue took place on November 17, 1999, and marks Prague as an important European cultural, political, and historical centre. It also commemorates the famous words of Churchill in a broadcast to the Czech and Slovak people on September 30th 1940: “The Soul of Freedom is Deathless. It Cannot and Will not Die”.

World War II 

The famous speech (‘Let Europe Arise‘) in Zurich on September 19th 1946, concluded his last visit (August 19th—September 22nd 1946) to Switzerland. It was also a massive thank-you from the Swiss people in Geneva, Lausanne, Bern, Zurich, or wherever he appeared. After all, Churchill had also saved Switzerland.

Or in the words of Werner Vogt: ‘Die Schweiz, namentlich die Schweizer Bevölkerung, hat Winston Churchill im Sommer 1946 viel gegeben. So viel aber, wie sie im Sommer 1940 bekommen hatte, konnte sie gar nicht zurückgeben. Es war auch die schweizerische Freiheit, die Churchill im Sommer 1940 verteidigte ‘ (Werner Vogt, p. 203).

Apart from the (British, Polish and Czech) pilots of the RAF during ‘the Blitz’ in the summer of 1940, Churchill’s decision and naval experience made the evacuation of the British expeditionary army on 26-29 May possible. These were perhaps the decisive and most pivotal three days before victory in 1945 or, freely, to Churchill:

Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to one person‘.

London, 2012, Trafalgar Studios, Three Days in May, Warren Clarke as Churchill, Jeremy Clyde as Lord Halifax, Robert Demeger as Neville Chamberlain

A concrete threat of German invasion existed for Switzerland until 1944, as it had been since May 10th 1940. France’s rapid capitulation (June 22nd 1940) most likely prevented an invasion.

The need was no longer there, and a neutral Switzerland was more interesting for diplomatic, financial, and industrial reasons. The Allies could not bomb the north-south link either (although there were plans).

Be that as it may, despite fear among the population and defeatism among some politicians and thanks to the combative attitude of the army (Réduit), public opinion and media and the rejection of an ‘Anschluss’ and ‘irredentism‘ by the vast majority of the population, the cost-benefit analysis among Italian and German dictators fell in favour of respecting neutrality.

The Felsplatte (Canton of Solothurn)

With today’s knowledge, condemning Switzerland is easy. Churchill, however, respected the country’s neutrality and extremely hazardous position, even when Allied (as well as German) planes were shot down over Swiss territory by the Swiss air force. He also put the much larger arms supplies to Germany and Italy in the perspective of the country’s dire situation:

Of all the neutrals, Switzerland has the greatest right to distinction. She has been the sole international force linking the hideously sundered nations and ourselves. What does it matter whether she has been able to give us the commercial advantages we desire or has given too many to the Germans to keep herself alive? She has been a democratic state, standing for freedom in self-defence among her mountains, and in thought largely on our side‘ (Winston Churchill, The Second World War, Volume VI, London, 1954).

University of Zurich

Zurich 1946

His speech in Zurich on September 19th 1946, is still relevant to today’s Switzerland. Churchill was a strong advocate of far-reaching cooperation between European countries, especially France and Germany:

It is to re-create the European family, or as much of it as we can, and provide it with a structure. We must all turn our backs upon the horrors of the past. We must look to the future, a blessed act of oblivion”.

The first step in re-creating the European family must be a partnership between France and Germany. We must recreate the European family in a regional structure, perhaps called the United States of Europe. The first step is to form a Council of Europe. Great Britain, the British Commonwealth of Nations, America and Soviet Russia must be the friends and sponsors “.

In his 1954 publication, Winston Churchill explained his ideas in more detail in The Second World War, Volume VI (London, 1954). He did not want a federal European State but an undefined ‘United States of Europe’ (“I shall not try to make a detailed programme for hundreds of millions of people“).

He saw the United States of Europe as a European Regional Council of sovereign countries. He also envisaged the Regional Council of the Pacific (with Russia, Asia, and Oceania), the Regional Council of the Americas, the British Commonwealth, and possibly other (future) Regional Councils. The World Council was the highest body with delegates from these Regional Councils.

Churchill suggested that, for practical reasons, European countries would send representatives to the European Regional Council by region, e.g., the Benelux countries (Belgium, the Netherlands, Luxembourg), the Slavic countries, and the Scandinavian countries.

He wrote about Switzerland: “Mr Wallace also asked whether I contemplated the possibility of Switzerland joining with France, but I said Switzerland is a special case“. (Winston Churchill, The Second World War, Volume VI, London, 1954, p. 718).

In his view, the UK had to opt for the ‘seas, free market, and free trade’ approach anyway, rather than joining these European structures, which did not rule out cooperation. After all, the UK was already a member of the Commonwealth.

European Union-Switzerland

The 1954 explanation clarifies that Churchill did not want a federal Europe. He would probably be critical of the functioning of the current European Union’ Aus dem Ruder gelaufen‘ while emphasising the need for its realistic ambitions and projects.

How would Churchill judge the current European Union-Swiss relationship? He was realistic and pragmatic enough to see the country’s difficult position surrounded by European Union countries. He also recognised the European cooperation’s benefits, positive developments, and necessity.

However, he would also pinpoint democratic, bureaucratic, and juridical activism, political shortcomings, and (sometimes unrealistic or megalomaniacal) ambitions without falling into populism. After all, this European Union sometimes resembles a United Nations at the European level or an NGO, which is not a compliment.

Gdansk shipyard, a monument to the fallen workers in 1970

Conclusion

We will never know. Perhaps he would recommend nurturing direct democracy, subsidiarity, federalism, decentralisation, innovation, and a national currency, with the necessary compromises.

About today’s Russia, he would be as clear as he was about its predecessor and aggressive ally of the German dictator until June 22nd 1941:

When I awoke on the morning of Sunday, the 22nd, the news was brought to me of Hitler’s invasion of Russia. I had not the slightest doubt where our duty and policy lay. The Nazi regime is indistinguishable from the worst features of Communism.

It excels in all forms of human wickedness in the efficiency of its cruelty and ferocious aggression. No one has been a more consistent opponent of Communism than I have for the last 25 years, and I will unsay no word that I have spoken about it. If Hitler invaded Hell, I would at least make a favourable reference to the Devil‘ (Winston Churchill, The Second World War, Volume III, London, 1950).

The Russian invasion of February 22nd 2022, is nothing but a continuation of the aggression against Poland (September 17th 1939), Finland (November 1939) and the Baltic States (1940) by the Soviet Union.

In May 1940, Churchill saved European civilisation. The fact that this struggle ended with the communist nightmare in Central and Eastern Europe was a bitter pill for him:

From Stettin in the Baltic to Trieste in the Adriatic, an iron curtain has descended across the continent. Behind that line lie all the capitals of the ancient states of central and eastern Europe. This is certainly not the liberated Europe we fought to build up“, Fulton, on March 5th 1946).

Gdansk shipyard, Solidarność uprising, 1981

Military facts, communist terror, and an inexperienced new US president ( Harry Truman, 1882-1972) and British prime minister (Clement Attlee, 1883-1967) sealed the fate of Eastern European countries, particularly Poland and former Czechoslovakia (‘the Switzerland of Central Europe’ until 1938). Great Britain started the war in 1939 because of Poland after it failed to defend Czechoslovakia in 1938.

Churchill always respected different political views, parliamentary discussions, and democracy, but could not stand or respect Lord Haw-Haw (1906-1946) or similar present-day personalities.

(Source: Werner Vogt, Winston Churchill und die Schweiz, Zürich 2015; The Churchill Foundation)

New archaeological finds in Celtic and Roman Switzerland

Who has not heard of or admired the public buildings, art, utensils (now objects of art), coins, and other finds from the Celtic and Roman periods?

Arab, Iranian, and Jewish scholars, as well as later monks, saved ancient authors and their writings for posterity before secular scholars, universities, and humanists became involved from the 13th century onwards.

The fall of Byzantium, the flight of (Christian) scholars and their writings in 1453, and the Reconquista in Spain (concluded in 1492) made many (unknown) publications accessible in Europe.

Today’s Orbe

However, scientific interest in physical objects from classical antiquity began in the 16th and 17th centuries. In today’s Switzerland, the best-known examples are the organisations Pro Aventico in Avenches (Roman Aventicum) and the Augusta Raurica Foundation in Augst and Kaiseraugst.

In numerous other places, Romans and Romanised Celts (Gallo-Romans) have left their mark, including Lausanne, Geneva (the first Swiss city under Roman rule 122-120 BC), Nyon, Vevey, Martigny, Windisch, Orbe, Bern, Vallon, and Lenzburg. Museums, archaeological sites, and parks tell the story of Switzerland’s past.

They often do so in connection with the world of the Celtic tribes and Rhaetians in eastern Switzerland. They inhabited the territory of present-day Switzerland centuries before the Roman conquest 15-13 BC. The museum Laténium in Hauterive (canton of Neuchâtel) is a good example of this approach.

Laténium

This Celtic culture and society were undoubtedly not ‘barbarian’, the Romans’ (and Greeks’) designation for foreign peoples. In particular, flooded Celtic pile-dwellings, burial mounds, and other archaeological sites show their societies and (high-level) culture.

Written sources of the Celts, however, are lacking. Only Roman and Greek authors have sporadically paid attention to these tribes. Regarding the Rhaetic tribes in eastern Switzerland, however, they remained silent, and archaeology has not yet contributed to a better understanding of these peoples.

Centuries before the Roman conquest of Switzerland in the 1st century BC, Greek and Roman authors referred to the ‘Keltoi or Celtae’. After all, the Romans suffered significant defeats at the hands of Celtic tribes and could no longer ignore these barbarians’.

Augusta Raurica, Roman theatre

Moreover, trade contacts between Greeks, Romans and Celts existed centuries before the Roman conquest of (Celtic) Europe. Greeks and Romans had been trading with northern regions for centuries, reaching as far as the Baltic Sea, where amber was exported to the Mediterranean.

As written sources and archives are virtually nonexistent, archaeologists, in particular, investigate these contacts. A recent find in Augusta Raurica honours the monastic work of archaeologists. A bronze coin from the 3rd century BC, i.e. during the Roman Republic, was found. These small finds further complete the Celtic puzzle.

However, the soil harbours many more secrets. Two Roman inscriptions in Augusta Raurica, a well-preserved mosaic in a Roman villa on Rue des Pavés in Avenches, and a Roman army camp in Oberhalstein on the Colm la Runga at an altitude of 2,200 metres in the Crap Res area (Surses, Canton Graubünden) make it clear. The Oberhalstein discovery clarifies the Roman campaign and conquest of Switzerland in 15-13 BC.

Aventicum around 200 AD. Model of the musée romain d’Avenches. Photo: TES.

The Roman era lasted over four centuries and shaped Switzerland linguistically, religiously and culturally. The Romansh, Italian and French languages, Christianity, the use of mountain passes, waterways and trade routes, the emergence of the first (Roman) cities and other ‘ancient heritage characterise the 26 cantons of today’s Confederation.

Thanks to the dedication, skill, and patience of archaeological detectives and funding by the (local) government, the history of Celtic and Roman Switzerland is being unravelled year in and year out.

(Source and further information: Archäologischer Dienst Graubünden, Association Pro Aventico; Stiftung Augusta Raurica)

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

The editorial office will be closed from 18 December 2025 to 4 January 2025, thanks you for your interest, comments and suggestions in 2024 and wishes you

fröhliche Weihnachten  und einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr

A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Fijne kerstdagen en een voorspoedig en gezond 2025

Un joyeux Noël et une bonne année 2025

Bellas festas da nadal ed ün furtüno 2025

The Toblerone Trail, Château de Prangins and the Pink Villa

The trail (Sentier des Toblerones) owes its name to a line of fortifications built during the mobilisation of 1939-45. “Toblerones” is the name the population has given to an anti-tank fortification whose elements are reminiscent of the famous Swiss chocolate brand.

The so-called Promenthouse fortified line is based on a natural obstacle formed by the courses of three streams: the Combe, Serine, and the lower course of the Promenthouse. The entire line of ´Toblerones´ runs along the Rhine as far as Sargans (canton of St. Gall)!

The “Toblerone Trail” runs through a landscape that, starting from the steep slopes of the Jura, presents successively rough terrain (Bassins), then slopes (Begnins and Vich), and finally a plain (Gland and the delta of the Promenthouse).

The trail also follows a succession of natural sites full of attractions, featuring a natural environment of great interest: meandering rivers with their deposits of alluvium, dead arms, early spring undergrowth flora, and woods.

The road also passes the Swiss National Museum at Château de Prangins and the pink villa (la Villa rose), a camouflaged bunker from this period.

(Source and further information: www.toblerones.ch).

Oberwangen, small village, interesting history

Centuries before and after the beginning of the Roman occupation (15-13 BC), a trade route already ran from the port of Morges-St.-Sulpice (on Lake Geneva) through the Wangental to Oberer Hauenstein. This road through Wangental and today’s Oberwangen (Canton Bern) was a crucial transportation artery.

Various manor houses existed in Roman times. The Burgundians, Alemans, and Romanised Celts inhabited the area in the 5th and 6th centuries. Oberwangen was first mentioned in a document in 1248. At that time, the name Wangen referred to a field or marshy hill.

Around 1200, the von Egerdon family, vassals of the Counts of Neuchâtel, owned large parts of the Wangen Valley. In 1312, the family sold the entire area, including the castle, to the Teutonic Order. Bern subsequently acquired the valley and Oberwangen. The centuries-old chapel disappeared during the Reformation in 1528. A new church was not built in Oberwangen until 1911.

During the Battle of Neuegg in 1798, French troops advanced as far as Oberwangen. However, they were thrown back to Neuegg. In vain, the surrender after the defeat at Grauholz sealed the end of the fighting and the downfall of Bern and the Ancien Régime.

(Source and further information: Gemeinde Könitz/ Oberwangen)

Along the Rhine with Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778) was an enthusiastic hiker and admirer of nature in Switzerland. However, the Geneva-born writer mainly stayed in French-speaking Switzerland.

His German contemporary, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832), also enjoyed staying and hiking in the German-speaking part of the country. He was particularly impressed by the Rhine Falls (Rheinfall) near Neuhausen (canton Schaffhausen) and the untamed course of the Rhine at that time.

The Rhine  between Rheinau and Neuhausen

On his visits to the Rhine Falls, he also visited Laufen Castle and Wörth Castle (Schlössli Wörth). In his diary, he wrote about Schlössli Wörth on 18. September 1797: ‘Ich ging hinein, um ein Glas Wein zu trinken’. Wörth Castle honours him with the Goethe room.

The Rheinfall,  Laufen castle (on the left, Wörth Castle, on the right)

Wörth castle

Many well-known personalities visited the Rheinfall before and after him, including the Holy Roman Empire’s emperors Ferdinand I (1503-1564) and Joseph II (1741-1790), Russia’s Tsar Alexander I (1777-1825), and the Austrian emperor Franz Josef I (1830-1916) and his wife Elisabeth, better known as Sisi (1837-1898) because of her tragic death in Geneva.

Switzerland is often referred to as the Water Castle of Europe, and the Rhine has traditionally been a vital waterway for trade and transportation. For centuries, Schaffhausen has been a transhipment location for goods (salt from Austria, for example). After all, the Rheinfall was a natural blockade. After the Rheinfall, the river became navigable again to the Dutch delta.

For this reason, Dutch merchants even had the audacious plan in 1609 to make the Rheinfall passable for the huge and (profitable) wooden rafts from the Swiss Rhine to Amsterdam and Rotterdam. They wanted to use explosives to blow up the Rheinfall and its rocks, giving the wooden rafts free passage.

Model of a wooden raft. Museum the Bastei, Nimwegen (Nijmegen)

This idea resembles the 19th-century plan to build a water link for ships through the Swiss Alps and to connect the Rhine and the Rhone through a canal in Vaud. 

Be that as it may, the Rheinfall is still there. The Schlössli Wörth, however, appreciated the initiative of the Dutch merchants and decorated a room as a ‘Holländer Eck’.

Neuhausen, the monument of Europe’s first aluminium industry

A few centuries later, the industrialist Johann Georg Neher (1788-1858) used the Rheinfall. He established an ironworks and exploited the waterfall as a source of energy. It was the foundation for Europe’s first aluminium factory! The Rheinfall offers another attraction. Swiss Smilestones offers an indoor miniature overview of Switzerland and its nature!

Impression of Swiss Smilestones

It is not known whether Goethe and other celebrities visited the town of Rheinau and the Rheinau Monastery. In any case, the Gastwirtschaft zum Buck has been there since 1492. Dendrochronological research has shown that the basement walls and beams date back to 1330, perhaps as part of the Rheinau monastery.

Wirtshaus zum Buck

Located near the Rhine, this Gastwirtschaft has been a stop for stagecoaches and later the Postauto for centuries, making it a good starting or ending point for a walk along the Rhine.

The Swiss Alpine Club

The Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC/Club Alpin Suisse, CAS) organises ski tours, hiking trips, and other sports in the high mountains and other areas.

Rheinau

Power station Rheinau

Beavers at work

An island in the Rhine near Rheinau

The True European Union of 26 cantons

The Celts and Romans

The Celtic and Rhaetian tribes inhabited the territory of present-day Switzerland centuries before the arrival of the Romans. They were in close (trade) contact with Germanic tribes, the Mediterranean region and northern countries.

 After Rome’s occupation (15-13 BC) and already Geneva (Genava in 122 BC), the construction of towns, roads and transport over mountain passes, rivers, and lakes began. Four centuries of Roman rule led to the ‘Romanisation’ of the local Celtic and Rhaetian population. A Gallo-Roman culture and language appeared. Only the elite Romanised entirely, including the use of the Latin language.

The area became a significant European trade and transportation hub. Several Alpine passes were already used in Roman times (the Gotthard Pass became accessible around 1230).

 The Middle Ages

 After the Romans had left, German-speaking tribes invaded the country. The area had around 200,000 inhabitants in the year 500 and around 500,000 in the year 1,000.

The Alemanni replaced the Gallo-Roman language and culture in Eastern, Central, and Northern Switzerland. The development in the Canton of Graubünden was different. The Romansh language replaced Latin as the primary language until the nineteenth century (apart from a few Walser enclaves ), after which German replaced Romansh as the first language, except for five Romansh-speaking regions and idioms.

 In the western part of the country, French became the primary language. Italian was the language of the territories conquered in the 15th and 16th centuries. The French, Italian, and German language borders hardly changed in the centuries after 1500, although Freiburg became increasingly Fribourg, and there were some other exceptions.

 Merovingians, Carolingians, Zwabian Dukes and Burgundian kings, abbeys, bishoprics (Geneva, Lausanne, Sion, Chur, Basel and Constance (nowadays Germany) played a prominent political (and military) role in the centuries following the departure of the Romans in the fifth century.

 The political map of the cantons (the name “canton” first appears in the sixteenth century) and Orte took shape over centuries following the 13th century. The significance of the Jura, the Three Lakes region, the Alps, the rivers, and the mountain passes for goods and passenger traffic became increasingly important for European transport of goods and persons.

The Holy Roman Empire and noble dynasties, including those of Kyburg, Habsburg, Savoy, and Zähringen, emerged in prominence after the tenth century. Popes, bishoprics, abbeys, Burgundian dukes, German kings, and (mainly) Habsburg emperors of the Holy Roman Empire were their main secular and religious antagonists or allies until 1499 (Peace of Basel) and 1648 (Peace of Westphalia).

 Habsburg, the Holy Roman Empire and other dynasties had no actual and legal power after 1499, apart from a few areas (Engadin (until 1652), Fricktal (until 1803), Tarasp (until 1803), Rhäzuns (until 1819) and through the appointments of abbots, bishops and friendly/related local rulers.

 The Confederation

 From the 14th century onwards, the ancient Confederation of cantons developed into a uniquely decentralised and democratic structure.

It was a long way with many (military, religious (after 1525), economic and social) conflicts between the cantons and against foreign powers, between urban and rural elites and within cantons.

 From 1798 to 1813, the French occupation triggered reforms that could not be reversed, eventually leading to the present-day Confederation of 26 cantons and four languages.

Change may not always come overnight in Switzerland. The country’s strength lies in its decentralised structure, centuries of ‘co-habitation’, its subsidiarity, industrial and innovative centres in the most remote villages and areas, centuries-old export networks, excellent (vocational) education, the world’s best universities and research institutes, adequate public transport, militia system and direct influence of citizens at the municipal, cantonal and national levels. The citizens are ultimately the sovereign.

 Switzerland is a bottom-up society. In this context, the presence of 2 million residents without a Swiss pass, the reception of a relatively large number of asylum seekers and the daily commute of nearly 400,000 (!!!) employees from Germany, France, Italy and Austria show the cosmopolitan and open character of the society. Switzerland is the true European Union of 26 sovereign cantons.

The Alps and the Poet Von Haller

For centuries, mountains were a ‘no go area’ for townspeople or villagers. Only cattle farmers and traders climbed mountains to pasture their cattle in the summer or transport cattle and their meat and milk products.

Jan Haeckert (1628-1690), around 1670. Collection: Rijksmuseum Amsterdam. 

Nobody thought of climbing a mountain for pleasure. Although the Dutch and Flemish masters of the Golden Age introduced idyllic mountain landscapes to their canvases, few had visited, let alone seen or climbed, the mountains themselves. The Swiss painters followed suit, not the other way around.

Scuol, Motta Naluns. Photo: TES.

The physician, biologist, and poet Albrecht von Haller was the first Swiss to write an ode to the mountains (1708-1777). He studied medicine in Bern and then spent a few years in Leiden.

Johann Rudolf Huber (1668-1748), Albrecht von Haller, 1735. Photo: File:Albrecht von Haller 1736.jpg – Wikimedia Commons

There, he studied under Herman Boerhaave (1668-1738) and other notable figures. Afterwards, he studied mathematics in Basel with the mathematician Johann Bernoulli (1667-1748). Bernoulli was the first to introduce statistics on the effectiveness of vaccinations against smallpox.

He worked as a librarian from 1729 to 1735. In his collection of poems “Versuch Schweizerischer Gedichte” from 1729, the poem “Die Alpen” describes the mountains and their inhabitants lyrically.

Von Haller became a professor of botany in Göttingen in 1735 and regularly visited the Alps in his native country. He published various famous books on the flora of the Alps.

Bellwald. Photo: TES.

However, what is essential is that his trips to the mountains removed the fear of people. No dragons, devils or other monsters lived there, as was believed at the time.

Jean Jacques Rousseau (1712-1768) also introduced a positive image of the Alps in his novel Julie ou La Nouvelle Héloïse (1761). He presented the mountains and their inhabitants as the lost paradise Arcadia.

Just before the French Revolution, the first Alpine hype among scientists and artists. The upper middle class also began to take an interest in hiking in the mountains.

The researcher-theologian Jakob Samuel Wyttenbach (1748-1830) from Bern, the painter Caspar Wolf (1735-1783) from Muri and the German writer Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832) also inspired the public with their enthusiasm for the Alps.

However, it was not until the beginning of the nineteenth century that the breakthrough came, partly due to painters such as the Englishman William Turner (1775-1851), who visited the Swiss Alps intermittently after 1802 and painted them.

Aletschgletscher, Eicher, Mönch und Jungfrau. Photo: TES.

Not the Swiss made the mountains ‘salonsfähig’, but the English, just as the Masters from the Low Countries had introduced the Alps as a subject for art in Switzerland two centuries earlier.

The story of the rise of the tourist resorts after 1850 in the Swiss Alps is well known. Anyone who puts on their snowshoes to go on one of the many hikes in the snowy Alps might pause to reflect on the spectre of the mountains until 1800.

Nowadays, no mountain tour, skiing, cross-country skiing or snowshoeing is without (avalanche) danger. Still, dragons and other monsters certainly do not live there, although the wolf has recently made its comeback.

The Matterhorn. Photo: TES

Albert von Haller likely never ventured into the mountains for his botanical research, but he is one of the pioneers of a new perspective on the Alps.

Before a trip in the snow, it is worthwhile to look at the first poetic perception of the Alps from 1729 in a then-unknown and certainly not touristy landscape. The poem has 41 verses. Verses 12 and 14 of Die Alpen read:

Hat nun die müde Welt sich in den Frost begraben,

Der Berge Thäler Eis, die Spitzen Schnee bedeckt,

Ruht das erschöpfte Feld nun aus für neue Gaben,

Weil ein krystallner Damm der Flüsse Lauf versteckt,

Dann zieht sich auch der Hirt in die beschneiten Hütten,

Wo fetter Fichten Dampf die dürren Balken schwärzt;

Hier zahlt die süße Ruh die Müh, die er erlitten,

Der Sorgen-lose Tag wird freudig durchgescherzt,

Und wenn die Nachbarn sich zu seinem Herde setzen,

So weiß ihr klug Gespräch auch Weise zu ergötzen.

 

Dann hier, wo Gotthards Haupt die Wolken übersteiget

Und der erhabnern Welt die Sonne näher scheint,

Hat, was die Erde sonst an Seltenheit gezeuget,

Die spielende Natur in wenig Lands vereint;

Wahr ists, daß Lybien uns noch mehr neues giebet

Und jeden Tag sein Sand ein frisches Unthier sieht;

Allein der Himmel hat dies Land noch mehr geliebet,

Wo nichts, was nöthig, fehlt und nur, was nutzet, blüht;

Der Berge wachsend Eis, der Felsen steile Wände

Sind selbst zum Nutzen da und tränken das Gelände.

 

Wenn Titans erster Strahl der Gipfel Schnee vergüldet

Und sein verklärter Blick die Nebel unterdrückt,

So wird, was die Natur am prächtigsten gebildet,

Mit immer neuer Lust von einem Berg erblickt;

Durch den zerfahrnen Dunst von einer dünnen Wolke

Eröffnet sich zugleich der Schauplatz einer Welt,

Ein weiter Aufenthalt von mehr als einem Volke

Zeigt alles auf einmal, was sein Bezirk enthält;

Ein sanfter Schwindel schließt die allzuschwachen Augen,

Die den zu breiten Kreis nicht durchzustrahlen taugen.

(Bron: Albrecht von Haller, Versuch Schweizerischer Gedichte, Berliner Ausgabe 2013)

Ardez

Meiertal, Kanton Uri