Rötteln Castle as a Symbol of centuries-old relationships between both Banks of the Rhine
5 November 2024
Today, Rötteln is part of Lörrach (Baden-Württemberg), just across the border near Basel. However, the former village of Rötteln, not to be confused with the hamlet of Röttelnweiler a few hundred metres away, was one of this region’s most important political centres until 1503.
Rötteln
The Margraves of Baden, namesakes of the Markgräflerland, and their predecessors, the Freiherren of Rötteln, resided in Rötteln Castle for centuries (c.1100-1503). From there, they ruled not only the Wiesental and other areas of Baden but also, for a long time, the County of Neuchâtel, possessions of the monastery of St Alban (Basel) on the right bank of the Rhine and parts of Alsace, Franche-Comté, and the Duchy of Burgundy.
The southern gate of the castle
Rötteln Castle today
Moreover, the margraves and their predecessors played a prominent role in the European power play, on equal footing with the Duchy of Burgundy, France, Habsburg and the Holy Roman Empire, dioceses (including Constance, Basel, Mainz, Strasbourg, Besançon), powerful abbeys (including St. Blasien, St Gallen, St Alban and Säckingen), the Eidgenossenschaft (especially with Basel, Bern and Solothurn), the counts of Rheinfelden, the dukes of Zähringen and other rulers.
Markgräflerland around 1556. Picture: Wikipedia
Relations between the city and the bishopric of Basel were very tied. At this time, Basel was not yet a member of the Eidgenossenschaft. Basel became a member in 1501 after the Schwabenkrieg and the Treaty of Basel (1499).
French troops destroyed Rötteln castle during the so-called ‘Niederländische Krieg’ (1672-1678). However, its ruins still majestically overlook Alsace, the Wiesental, Markgräflerland, and Basel.
The castle in the Topographia Alsatiae
Collection: Burgmuseum Rötteln
The grandeur and prestige of the castle are also evident in a description in the third volume (Topographia Alsatiae) of Matthäus Merian’s Topographia Germaniae (1644). The castle emerges as one of the ‘vornehmbsten Oerther‘. The other two volumes of the Topographia Germaniae were the Topographia Helvetiae and the Topographia Sueviae.
For a good understanding of the castle’s history, the Rötteln family, its tributary, the Rotenberg family, and their heirs, the Margraves of von Hachberg-Sausenberg, one must not only cross the Rhine but also think away from the current national borders of France, Switzerland, and Germany.
The Freiherren of Rötteln
One of the oldest charters of St Gallen Abbey mentions a villa Raudinleim (leim for Lehm (clay) and Rau for Rot (red)) in 751. The Rötteln family first appears in a text (1083) by the bishop of Basel Burkhard von Fenis (1040-1107). The bishop appointed Theodericus of this family as overseer (Schirmvogt) of the possessions of the monastery of St Alban on the right bank of the Rhine.
In the following centuries, this dynasty acquired more possessions in the Wiesental and built several other castles, including Minseln, Schopfheim, Brombach, Wies, Lörrach (which was then a village), and Nordschwaben. A side branch, the Rotenberg dynasty, built castles in this region in Hammerstein, Rotenberg, Steinen, and Hasel.
Collection: Dreiländermuseum Lörrach
Contacts with the bishopric and the city of Basel were especially intense. The Lords of Rötteln belonged to the ‘inner circle’. They participated in the prestigious tournaments at the Münster and provided three bishops (Walter, Liutold II, and Liutold III).
The heraldry of Rötteln, northern side of the Basler Münster
On the left the Neuenburger heraldry
However, the dynasty died out in 1316, and the era of the Margraves of von Hachberg-Sausenberg began. This dynasty died out in turn in 1503, making Rötteln the administrative centre of the Margrave of Baden for almost two centuries.
Basler Münster, Katharina, Markgräfin von Baden
The main gate to the castle (Oberburg) and the heraldry of von Hachberg-Sausenberg
Moreover, during this period, the territory of the Markgräflerland (after acquiring Badenweiler in 1444) was completed to distinguish it from the northern part of the margraviate.
This dynasty and its side branch, the Hochberg, acquired not only the county of Neuchâtel but also territories in Franche-Comté and the Duchy of Burgundy. Because of the close contact with the dukes of Burgundy, the old medieval castle was rebuilt around 1470 in the Prestigious Burgundian style.
The ‘Marquis de Rothelin‘ was also active in other areas, including in the diplomatic service of the dukes of Burgundy and as governor of Luxembourg around 1470, as bishop of Constance and patron of the Council of Basel (1431-1439) in an earlier period and for a long time as a mediator between Habsburg and the Eidgenossenschaft and between Burgundy and France.
The Romanesque church in Rötteln was rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1403 and was the last resting place of this dynasty. At the time, the complex had more of the character of a convent with a school, dwellings, and buildings. The monks also performed administrative duties for the margrave.
1503-1678
Baden’s heirs and new margraves moved their residences north to Baden-Baden, Rastatt, and finally Karlsruhe. However, Rötteln Castle remained the regional administrative centre (Oberamt) of Markgräferland of the Margrave county until 1678. Its destruction in 1678 marked the end of the castle, physically and as an administrative centre.
The era of Lörrach began. This village already had some significance during the time of the Freiherren of Rötteln. They resided at their castle in Lörrach but had the misfortune of being near Basel.
Although Lörrach’s location was favourable, economic development did not take off because of its proximity to this big and powerful city. Lörrach had already been granted market rights in 1403 but remained an economic and political dwarf. The margraves at Rötteln Castle did not tolerate political competition.
However, the destruction of Rötteln Castle upgraded Lörrach. In 1678, it received city rights and became the administrative centre of the Oberamt.
Conclusion
The history of this castle tells the story of this region of Alsace, Baden and Basel. Many aspects cannot be covered in this short contribution, including the relationship with other lineages (e.g. Reich von Reichenstein, Münch, Rotberg), villages and towns ( e.g. Inzlingen, Schopfheim, Rottweil), abbeys, the city and bishopric of Basel, Constance and other bishoprics.
That in itself is also irrelevant, however interesting. This ruin, well maintained by the Röttelnbund e.V. Haagen, symbolizes centuries of economic, political, religious, and social interdependence and connection on both banks of the Rhine.
(Source and further information: R. Wagner, U. Brachthäuser, M. Volk (Red.), Burg Rötteln. Herrschaft zwischen Basel und Frankreich, Neulingen, 2020)
Impressions of the ruin and the environment
