Gedenkstätte Riehen. Foto/Photo: TES

The Eiserne Hand and the Memorial 1933-1945 in Riehen

The jagged border of today’s Switzerland, with its many twists and turns and even some foreign enclaves, results from nature, politics, and sometimes chance. The borders of the 26 cantons mostly follow the same pattern. Within several cantons, there are even enclaves of other cantons, and sometimes, the border looks more like a patchwork of three cantons.

Since 1803, the High Rhine (and Lake Constance) has been the natural border between the Swiss Confederation on the left bank of the Rhine and the German (Grand Duchy of) Baden and (Kingdom of) Württemberg, Bundesland Baden-Württemberg since 1947.

Collection: Dreiländermuseum Lörrach

However, this border river also has exceptions: the canton of Schaffhausen lies mainly on the right bank of the Rhine, and the canton of Zurich extends for several square kilometres along the right bank.

However, the most striking Swiss appearance on the right bank of the Rhine is in canton Basel-Stadt. The Basel-Stadt canton consists of three municipalities: Basel, Riehen and Bettingen. Riehen and Bettingen lie on the right bank of the Rhine. Still, a part of Basel (Kleinbasel) also lies on the ‘German’ side of the Rhine, with the Badische Badenhof of the Deutsche Bahn (DB) in Kleinbasel being German territory in Switzerland.

Today, this is not an obstacle for travellers. However, from 1933 to 1945, and especially from 1938 onwards, it was a border between life and death, freedom and dictatorship, for many.

Border Stone in the Eiserne Hand, Riehen

1933 – 1945

The Nazis’ seizure of power on 30 January 1933 led to terror and persecution of political opponents, dissenters and Jewish citizens from the very beginning. After the pogrom of 9 November 1938 (Kristallnacht) until Germany’s occupation and capitulation in 1945, thousands of Jewish civilians, refugees from occupied territories, Allied soldiers and forced labourers crossed this Swiss border on the right bank of the Rhine.

Collection: Gedenkstätte Riehen

Although the German campaign against the Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and France in May 1940 did not lead to a German invasion of Switzerland, the plans were there (Operation Tannenbaum). Perhaps France’s rapid capitulation prevented this invasion. The costs for Germany (and Italy) no longer outweighed the benefits of a neutral neighbouring country with essential transport links and (weapons- and financial) industry, which could not be bombed.

However, the permanent fear of a German invasion determined daily life in Canton-Basel-Stadt and Switzerland (see also the German occupation of Italy in 1943 and Hungary in 1944).

In any case, from 10 May 1940, the border on the right bank of the Rhine was and remained hermetically closed with barricades and patrols. This ended centuries of social and economic contacts and relationships for many residents.

Moreover, many Germans (even then) lived or worked in this canton and supported the new regime. However, most Swiss citizens did not support the ‘Hilter-Zeug’, which led to tensions with the large German community.

Collection: Gedenkstätte Riehen

Refugees

The permanent fear of Germany, economic problems, unemployment, poverty for parts of the population and anti-Semitism of the time took their toll on many (Jewish) refugees.

Switzerland remained a democratic and multicultural oasis surrounded by ruthless regimes. Hitler had once called Switzerland an ‘Ungeheuer,’ and Heim ins Reich also applied to German-speaking Switzerland. Mussolini had Italian-speaking areas of Switzerland in mind ( Irredentismo). Concessions, compromises, and cooperation with these dictators were a matter of survival for the small country amid a desert of thousands of kilometres of dictatorship.

Collection: Gedenkstätte Riehen

The details of the formal Swiss attitude towards Jewish and other refugees are well described and known (see, among others, the Bergier-Kommisson report of 22 April 2022). Federal President Kaspar Villiger already aptly summarised this attitude on behalf of the Swiss government in a statement on 7 May 1995:

Ich will aber nicht verhehlen, dass es einen Bereich gab, der sich aus heutiger Sicht der Rechtfertigung durch irgendwelche ‘äusseren Umstände’ entzieht. Es steht für mich ausser Zweifel, dass wir mit unserer Politik gegenüber den verfolgten Juden Schuld auf uns geladen haben.

Die Angst vor Deutschland, die Furcht vor Überfremdung durch Massenimmigration und die Sorge um politischen Auftrieb für einen auch hierzulande existierenden Antisemitismus wogen manchmal stärker als unsere Asyltradition, als unsere humanitären Ideale.

Schwierige Zielkonflikte wurden auch überängstlich zu Lasten der Humanität gelöst. Wir haben damals im allzu narrow verstandenen Landesinteresse eine falsche Wahl getroffen. Der Bundesrat bedauert das zutiefst, und er entschuldigt sich dafür, im Wissen darum, dass solches Versagen letztlich unentschuldbar ist’.

Riehen and the Eiserne Hand. Collection: Gedenkstätte Riehen

The Eiserne Hand

The tragedy for Jewish refugees, in particular, occurred at all Swiss border posts, in Tessin, Geneva, St Gallen, Schaffhausen, Graubünden and other border cantons. However, the situation on the right bank of the Rhine in Canton Basel-Stadt was exceptional.

First, there were train connections to the Badische Bahnhof across Swiss territory (the Wiesentalbahn), from Weil am Rhein via Kleinbasel to Grenzach and from St Louis to the French station in Basel. Refugees sometimes used these trains to jump out of trains on Swiss territory.

However, the main escape route was the Eiserne Hand (the Iron Hand) in the municipality of Riehen. This strip is about 2 kilometres long and 300 metres wide, stretching like a hand (or finger) into Germany.

The Germans had stopped enclosing this area with barbed wire and other barricades due to a lack of materials, and the Swiss government refused to do so despite German exhortations.

Maienbühl today

Despite many patrols, thousands of refugees reached this border. Maienbühl Farm was often the first reception address where hospitable shelter was offered.

However, there was a legal obligation to inform the authorities, and then the bureaucratic procedure with border police and authorities began. Jewish people were not political refugees according to the national government and had to be sent back for this reason. The border of hope and life thus became a border of disappointment and death.

Borderstone 51 was a point of hope, liberty, and life, but it appeared to be a deception and death for too many. Collectie: Gedenkstätte Riehen

Most citizens took the asylum policy for granted. However, a small minority of organisations, churches, and politicians opposed the national government policy and helped refugees get shelter and papers.

Even some border guards did not send refugees back. The vast majority, however, fulfilled their bureaucratic duties, though often, archives testify, with great reluctance.

The government of Canton-Basel-Stadt also disagreed with the national government’s policy and used its cantonal freedom to grant residence permits to as many refugees as possible. However, the Eiserne Hand was no border of life and liberty for too many.

Gedenkstätte Riehen

The municipality of Riehen gives this history, especially the stories of rescued and rejected refugees, a face and sometimes even a voice. An extensive documentation centre and many personal testimonies from refugees, border guards, residents, refugee helpers, politicians, and journalists put this tragedy in perspective.

Also on the German side of the border were some brave people who risked their lives to help Jews and other refugees. Some train drives even slowed the speed of the train on Swiss territory, allowing refugees to jump off the train.

Afbeelding: Gedenkstätte Johann George Elser, Königsbronn

One refugee, however, deserves special mention. Johann Georg Elser ( 1903-1945 ), a carpenter from Königsbronn, committed an unsuccessful attack on the Fuhrer in Munich on 8 November 1939. He was arrested by the German police when he tried to cross the Swiss border near Constance.

This place does not judge. It does, however, prominently feature Kaspar Villiger’s testimony alongside some of the citizens, officials, and politicians who did not follow the national government’s policies.

Collection: Gedenkstätte Riehen

Switzerland is not the only country that has been confronted with this past. It is easy to judge and especially condemn with hindsight. Who becomes the hero when it matters is impossible to predict in peacetime and a democracy. The same applies today to the many activists.

In any case, Switzerland did not fail as a nation against the German and Italian aggressors. The country had no choice but to resist these dictatorships to the best of its capabilities.

The Eiserne Hand symbolises moral, political, and (un)human attitudes in a (un)human time. The memorial is also a place for (self) reflection.

(Source and further information: Gedenkstätte Riehen)

Impressions of the Eiserne Hand

Borderstone 60 of the Eiserne Hand. Collection: Dreiländermuseum Lörrach

Impressions of the Gedenkstätte Riehen

Impressions of the surroundings

Inzlingen (Germany)