Switzerland, Churchill, Bowring, Toblerones and the European Union

British aristocrats were the first mountaineers in Switzerland and introduced winter sports (through a bet with the founder of the Kulm Hotel in St Moritz). Such was the enthusiasm that the world’s first Alpine Club was founded in London in 1857, followed in 1863 by the Schweizer Alpen Club (SAC)/Club alpine suisse (CAS).

Churchill and Switzerland

The greatest Briton of all time and saviour of European civilisation (‘1940 hat Churchill gerettet Europa‘, Willy Bretscher in 1971, editor-in-chief of the Neue Zürcher Zeitung during the Second World War) was one of them.

Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill (1874-1965) climbed Monte Rosa and several other mountains, and visited Switzerland on several occasions (1893, 1894, 1904, 1906, 1910) during his younger years. During these (lengthy) stays, he got to know and appreciate the country, as did other compatriots before and after him.

Sir John Bowring (1792-1872). Devonshire Association

The British banker Sir Ernest Cassel (1852-1921) was his host in the summers of 1904, 1906, and 1910 at his Villa Cassel on the Riederfurka, in the area of the Aletsch glacier (canton Valais).

Moreover, through publications by English writers, Churchill became aware of Swiss history and political development.

Most people know Churchill as a relatively sedate and cigar-smoking politician in his sixties during World War II. In his younger years, however, he was an active sportsman, with activities including horse riding, polo, and hiking. He also played bridge, albeit not always with good experience:

“I can’t tell you how much I hate losing money with bridge. It’s a complicated game, especially if you’re a bad player with lousy cards in your hand”.

His literary, journalistic, military, and political career, eloquence, and historical knowledge are well known. His (brief) training and activity as a bricklayer and career as an amateur painter also deserve attention. He was proud of the stone barn and wall he built in 1928 on his Chartwell estate in Kent.

His painting career began in 1915 on the Flanders battlefield, following one of his lowest political moments. The Swiss artist and art collector Charles (Carl) Montag (1880-1956) supported and educated him.

Winston Churchill, View of Chartwell, 1938. Front cover, The National Trust, Chartwell, 1992

Moreover, Swiss staff worked preferentially at Chartwell until he died in 1965. He also published articles in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung (and media in other countries).

Churchill was a child of the English Victorian establishment and the 19th century. The anachronistic commentary of some of today’s opinion makers, journalists and historians says something about the present-day understanding of the (recent) past.

Besides his many (human) qualities, Churchill also had shortcomings, mistakes, and misjudgments. Still, even years before the outbreak of World War II (1939-1945) and after the communist coup in Russia at the end of World War I (1914-1918), he had the right political and moral compass.

He foresaw not only communist terror, its economic mismanagement and cultural nihilism in 1918 but also National Socialist barbarism in the 1920s and 1930s. He was aware of the danger that threatened neutral countries, including Switzerland.

Prague, Náměstí Winstona Churchilla (Winston Churchill Square), 1999, a replica of the original from 1976 by Ivor Robert-Jones (1913-1996), which stands in Parliament Square in London. The unveiling of the statue took place on November 17, 1999, and marks Prague as an important European cultural, political, and historical centre. It also commemorates the famous words of Churchill in a broadcast to the Czech and Slovak people on September 30th 1940: “The Soul of Freedom is Deathless. It Cannot and Will not Die”.

World War II 

The famous speech (‘Let Europe Arise‘) in Zurich on September 19th 1946, concluded his last visit (August 19th—September 22nd 1946) to Switzerland. It was also a massive thank-you from the Swiss people in Geneva, Lausanne, Bern, Zurich, or wherever he appeared. After all, Churchill had also saved Switzerland.

Or in the words of Werner Vogt: ‘Die Schweiz, namentlich die Schweizer Bevölkerung, hat Winston Churchill im Sommer 1946 viel gegeben. So viel aber, wie sie im Sommer 1940 bekommen hatte, konnte sie gar nicht zurückgeben. Es war auch die schweizerische Freiheit, die Churchill im Sommer 1940 verteidigte ‘ (Werner Vogt, p. 203).

Apart from the (British, Polish and Czech) pilots of the RAF during ‘the Blitz’ in the summer of 1940, Churchill’s decision and naval experience made the evacuation of the British expeditionary army on 26-29 May possible. These were perhaps the decisive and most pivotal three days before victory in 1945 or, freely, to Churchill:

‘Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to one person‘.

London, 2012, Trafalgar Studios, Three Days in May, Warren Clarke as Churchill, Jeremy Clyde as Lord Halifax, Robert Demeger as Neville Chamberlain

A concrete threat of German invasion existed for Switzerland until 1944, as it had been since May 10th 1940. France’s rapid capitulation (June 22nd 1940) most likely prevented an invasion.

The need was no longer there, and a neutral Switzerland was more interesting for diplomatic, financial, and industrial reasons. The Allies could not bomb the north-south link either (although there were plans).

Be that as it may, despite fear among the population and defeatism among some politicians and thanks to the combative attitude of the army (Réduit), public opinion and media and the rejection of an ‘Anschluss’ and ‘irredentism‘ by the vast majority of the population, the cost-benefit analysis among Italian and German dictators fell in favour of respecting neutrality.

The Felsplatte (Canton of Solothurn)

With today’s knowledge, condemning Switzerland is easy. Churchill, however, respected the country’s neutrality and extremely hazardous position, even when Allied (as well as German) planes were shot down over Swiss territory by the Swiss air force. He also put the much larger arms supplies to Germany and Italy in the perspective of the country’s dire situation:

‘Of all the neutrals, Switzerland has the greatest right to distinction. She has been the sole international force linking the hideously sundered nations and ourselves. What does it matter whether she has been able to give us the commercial advantages we desire or has given too many to the Germans to keep herself alive? She has been a democratic state, standing for freedom in self-defence among her mountains, and in thought largely on our side‘ (Winston Churchill, The Second World War, Volume VI, London, 1954).

University of Zurich

Zurich 1946

His speech in Zurich on September 19th 1946, is still relevant to today’s Switzerland. Churchill was a strong advocate of far-reaching cooperation between European countries, especially France and Germany:

“It is to re-create the European family, or as much of it as we can, and provide it with a structure. We must all turn our backs upon the horrors of the past. We must look to the future, a blessed act of oblivion”.

The first step in re-creating the European family must be a partnership between France and Germany. We must recreate the European family in a regional structure, perhaps called the United States of Europe. The first step is to form a Council of Europe. Great Britain, the British Commonwealth of Nations, America and Soviet Russia must be the friends and sponsors “.

In his 1954 publication, Winston Churchill explained his ideas in more detail in The Second World War, Volume VI (London, 1954). He did not want a federal European State but an undefined ‘United States of Europe’ (“I shall not try to make a detailed programme for hundreds of millions of people“).

He saw the United States of Europe as a European Regional Council of sovereign countries. He also envisaged the Regional Council of the Pacific (with Russia, Asia, and Oceania), the Regional Council of the Americas, the British Commonwealth, and possibly other (future) Regional Councils. The World Council was the highest body with delegates from these Regional Councils.

Churchill suggested that, for practical reasons, European countries would send representatives to the European Regional Council by region, e.g., the Benelux countries (Belgium, the Netherlands, Luxembourg), the Slavic countries, and the Scandinavian countries.

He wrote about Switzerland: “Mr Wallace also asked whether I contemplated the possibility of Switzerland joining with France, but I said Switzerland is a special case“. (Winston Churchill, The Second World War, Volume VI, London, 1954, p. 718).

In his view, the UK had to opt for the ‘seas, free market, and free trade’ approach anyway, rather than joining these European structures, which did not rule out cooperation. After all, the UK was already a member of the Commonwealth.

European Union-Switzerland

The 1954 explanation clarifies that Churchill did not want a federal Europe. He would probably be critical of the functioning of the current European Union’ Aus dem Ruder gelaufen‘ while emphasising the need for its realistic ambitions and projects.

How would Churchill judge the current European Union-Swiss relationship? He was realistic and pragmatic enough to see the country’s difficult position surrounded by European Union countries. He also recognised the European cooperation’s benefits, positive developments, and necessity.

However, he would also pinpoint democratic, bureaucratic, and juridical activism, political shortcomings, and (sometimes unrealistic or megalomaniacal) ambitions without falling into populism. After all, this European Union sometimes resembles a United Nations at the European level or an NGO, which is not a compliment.

Gdansk shipyard, a monument to the fallen workers in 1970

Conclusion

We will never know. Perhaps he would recommend nurturing direct democracy, subsidiarity, federalism, decentralisation, innovation, and a national currency, with the necessary compromises.

About today’s Russia, he would be as clear as he was about its predecessor and aggressive ally of the German dictator until June 22nd 1941:

‘When I awoke on the morning of Sunday, the 22nd, the news was brought to me of Hitler’s invasion of Russia. I had not the slightest doubt where our duty and policy lay. The Nazi regime is indistinguishable from the worst features of Communism.

It excels in all forms of human wickedness in the efficiency of its cruelty and ferocious aggression. No one has been a more consistent opponent of Communism than I have for the last 25 years, and I will unsay no word that I have spoken about it. If Hitler invaded Hell, I would at least make a favourable reference to the Devil‘ (Winston Churchill, The Second World War, Volume III, London, 1950).

The Russian invasion of February 22nd 2022, is nothing but a continuation of the aggression against Poland (September 17th 1939), Finland (November 1939) and the Baltic States (1940) by the Soviet Union.

In May 1940, Churchill saved European civilisation. The fact that this struggle ended with the communist nightmare in Central and Eastern Europe was a bitter pill for him:

“From Stettin in the Baltic to Trieste in the Adriatic, an iron curtain has descended across the continent. Behind that line lie all the capitals of the ancient states of central and eastern Europe. This is certainly not the liberated Europe we fought to build up“, Fulton, on March 5th 1946).

Gdansk shipyard, Solidarność uprising, 1981

Military facts, communist terror, and an inexperienced new US president ( Harry Truman, 1882-1972) and British prime minister (Clement Attlee, 1883-1967) sealed the fate of Eastern European countries, particularly Poland and former Czechoslovakia (‘the Switzerland of Central Europe’ until 1938). Great Britain started the war in 1939 because of Poland after it failed to defend Czechoslovakia in 1938.

Churchill always respected different political views, parliamentary discussions, and democracy, but could not stand or respect Lord Haw-Haw (1906-1946) or similar present-day personalities.

(Source: Werner Vogt, Winston Churchill und die Schweiz, Zürich 2015; The Churchill Foundation)

New archaeological finds in Celtic and Roman Switzerland

Who has not heard of or admired the public buildings, art, utensils (now objects of art), coins, and other finds from the Celtic and Roman periods?

Arab, Iranian, and Jewish scholars, as well as later monks, saved ancient authors and their writings for posterity before secular scholars, universities, and humanists became involved from the 13th century onwards.

The fall of Byzantium, the flight of (Christian) scholars and their writings in 1453, and the Reconquista in Spain (concluded in 1492) made many (unknown) publications accessible in Europe.

Today’s Orbe

However, scientific interest in physical objects from classical antiquity began in the 16th and 17th centuries. In today’s Switzerland, the best-known examples are the organisations Pro Aventico in Avenches (Roman Aventicum) and the Augusta Raurica Foundation in Augst and Kaiseraugst.

In numerous other places, Romans and Romanised Celts (Gallo-Romans) have left their mark, including Lausanne, Geneva (the first Swiss city under Roman rule 122-120 BC), Nyon, Vevey, Martigny, Windisch, Orbe, Bern, Vallon, and Lenzburg. Museums, archaeological sites, and parks tell the story of Switzerland’s past.

They often do so in connection with the world of the Celtic tribes and Rhaetians in eastern Switzerland. They inhabited the territory of present-day Switzerland centuries before the Roman conquest 15-13 BC. The museum Laténium in Hauterive (canton of Neuchâtel) is a good example of this approach.

Laténium

This Celtic culture and society were undoubtedly not ‘barbarian’, the Romans’ (and Greeks’) designation for foreign peoples. In particular, flooded Celtic pile-dwellings, burial mounds, and other archaeological sites show their societies and (high-level) culture.

Written sources of the Celts, however, are lacking. Only Roman and Greek authors have sporadically paid attention to these tribes. Regarding the Rhaetic tribes in eastern Switzerland, however, they remained silent, and archaeology has not yet contributed to a better understanding of these peoples.

Centuries before the Roman conquest of Switzerland in the 1st century BC, Greek and Roman authors referred to the ‘Keltoi or Celtae’. After all, the Romans suffered significant defeats at the hands of Celtic tribes and could no longer ignore these ‘barbarians’.

Augusta Raurica, Roman theatre

Moreover, trade contacts between Greeks, Romans and Celts existed centuries before the Roman conquest of (Celtic) Europe. Greeks and Romans had been trading with northern regions for centuries, reaching as far as the Baltic Sea, where amber was exported to the Mediterranean.

As written sources and archives are virtually nonexistent, archaeologists, in particular, investigate these contacts. A recent find in Augusta Raurica honours the monastic work of archaeologists. A bronze coin from the 3rd century BC, i.e. during the Roman Republic, was found. These small finds further complete the Celtic puzzle.

However, the soil harbours many more secrets. Two Roman inscriptions in Augusta Raurica, a well-preserved mosaic in a Roman villa on Rue des Pavés in Avenches, and a Roman army camp in Oberhalstein on the Colm la Runga at an altitude of 2,200 metres in the Crap Res area (Surses, Canton Graubünden) make it clear. The Oberhalstein discovery clarifies the Roman campaign and conquest of Switzerland in 15-13 BC.

Aventicum around 200 AD. Model of the musée romain d’Avenches. Photo: TES.

The Roman era lasted over four centuries and shaped Switzerland linguistically, religiously and culturally. The Romansh, Italian and French languages, Christianity, the use of mountain passes, waterways and trade routes, the emergence of the first (Roman) cities and other ‘ancient‘ heritage characterise the 26 cantons of today’s Confederation.

Thanks to the dedication, skill, and patience of archaeological detectives and funding by the (local) government, the history of Celtic and Roman Switzerland is being unravelled year in and year out.

(Source and further information: Archäologischer Dienst Graubünden, Association Pro Aventico; Stiftung Augusta Raurica)

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

The editorial office will be closed from 18 December 2025 to 4 January 2025, thanks you for your interest, comments and suggestions in 2024 and wishes you

fröhliche Weihnachten  und einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr

A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Fijne kerstdagen en een voorspoedig en gezond 2025

Un joyeux Noël et une bonne année 2025

Bellas festas da nadal ed ün furtüno 2025

The Toblerone Trail, Château de Prangins and the Pink Villa

The trail (Sentier des Toblerones) owes its name to a line of fortifications built during the mobilisation of 1939-45. “Toblerones” is the name the population has given to an anti-tank fortification whose elements are reminiscent of the famous Swiss chocolate brand.

The so-called Promenthouse fortified line is based on a natural obstacle formed by the courses of three streams: the Combe, Serine, and the lower course of the Promenthouse. The entire line of ´Toblerones´ runs along the Rhine as far as Sargans (canton of St. Gall)!

The “Toblerone Trail” runs through a landscape that, starting from the steep slopes of the Jura, presents successively rough terrain (Bassins), then slopes (Begnins and Vich), and finally a plain (Gland and the delta of the Promenthouse).

The trail also follows a succession of natural sites full of attractions, featuring a natural environment of great interest: meandering rivers with their deposits of alluvium, dead arms, early spring undergrowth flora, and woods.

The road also passes the Swiss National Museum at Château de Prangins and the pink villa (la Villa rose), a camouflaged bunker from this period.

(Source and further information: www.toblerones.ch).

Oberwangen, small village, interesting history

Centuries before and after the beginning of the Roman occupation (15-13 BC), a trade route already ran from the port of Morges-St.-Sulpice (on Lake Geneva) through the Wangental to Oberer Hauenstein. This road through Wangental and today’s Oberwangen (Canton Bern) was a crucial transportation artery.

Various manor houses existed in Roman times. The Burgundians, Alemans, and Romanised Celts inhabited the area in the 5th and 6th centuries. Oberwangen was first mentioned in a document in 1248. At that time, the name Wangen referred to a field or marshy hill.

Around 1200, the von Egerdon family, vassals of the Counts of Neuchâtel, owned large parts of the Wangen Valley. In 1312, the family sold the entire area, including the castle, to the Teutonic Order. Bern subsequently acquired the valley and Oberwangen. The centuries-old chapel disappeared during the Reformation in 1528. A new church was not built in Oberwangen until 1911.

During the Battle of Neuegg in 1798, French troops advanced as far as Oberwangen. However, they were thrown back to Neuegg. In vain, the surrender after the defeat at Grauholz sealed the end of the fighting and the downfall of Bern and the Ancien Régime.

(Source and further information: Gemeinde Könitz/ Oberwangen)

Along the Rhine with Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778) was an enthusiastic hiker and admirer of nature in Switzerland. However, the Geneva-born writer mainly stayed in French-speaking Switzerland.

His German contemporary, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832), also enjoyed staying and hiking in the German-speaking part of the country. He was particularly impressed by the Rhine Falls (Rheinfall) near Neuhausen (canton Schaffhausen) and the untamed course of the Rhine at that time.

The Rhine  between Rheinau and Neuhausen

On his visits to the Rhine Falls, he also visited Laufen Castle and Wörth Castle (Schlössli Wörth). In his diary, he wrote about Schlössli Wörth on 18. September 1797: ‘Ich ging hinein, um ein Glas Wein zu trinken’. Wörth Castle honours him with the Goethe room.

The Rheinfall,  Laufen castle (on the left, Wörth Castle, on the right)

Wörth castle

Many well-known personalities visited the Rheinfall before and after him, including the Holy Roman Empire’s emperors Ferdinand I (1503-1564) and Joseph II (1741-1790), Russia’s Tsar Alexander I (1777-1825), and the Austrian emperor Franz Josef I (1830-1916) and his wife Elisabeth, better known as Sisi (1837-1898) because of her tragic death in Geneva.

Switzerland is often referred to as the Water Castle of Europe, and the Rhine has traditionally been a vital waterway for trade and transportation. For centuries, Schaffhausen has been a transhipment location for goods (salt from Austria, for example). After all, the Rheinfall was a natural blockade. After the Rheinfall, the river became navigable again to the Dutch delta.

For this reason, Dutch merchants even had the audacious plan in 1609 to make the Rheinfall passable for the huge and (profitable) wooden rafts from the Swiss Rhine to Amsterdam and Rotterdam. They wanted to use explosives to blow up the Rheinfall and its rocks, giving the wooden rafts free passage.

Model of a wooden raft. Museum the Bastei, Nimwegen (Nijmegen)

This idea resembles the 19th-century plan to build a water link for ships through the Swiss Alps and to connect the Rhine and the Rhone through a canal in Vaud. 

Be that as it may, the Rheinfall is still there. The Schlössli Wörth, however, appreciated the initiative of the Dutch merchants and decorated a room as a ‘Holländer Eck’.

Neuhausen, the monument of Europe’s first aluminium industry

A few centuries later, the industrialist Johann Georg Neher (1788-1858) used the Rheinfall. He established an ironworks and exploited the waterfall as a source of energy. It was the foundation for Europe’s first aluminium factory! The Rheinfall offers another attraction. Swiss Smilestones offers an indoor miniature overview of Switzerland and its nature!

Impression of Swiss Smilestones

It is not known whether Goethe and other celebrities visited the town of Rheinau and the Rheinau Monastery. In any case, the Gastwirtschaft zum Buck has been there since 1492. Dendrochronological research has shown that the basement walls and beams date back to 1330, perhaps as part of the Rheinau monastery.

Wirtshaus zum Buck

Located near the Rhine, this Gastwirtschaft has been a stop for stagecoaches and later the Postauto for centuries, making it a good starting or ending point for a walk along the Rhine.

The Swiss Alpine Club

The Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC/Club Alpin Suisse, CAS) organises ski tours, hiking trips, and other sports in the high mountains and other areas.

Rheinau

Power station Rheinau

Beavers at work

An island in the Rhine near Rheinau

The True European Union of 26 cantons

The Celts and Romans

The Celtic and Rhaetian tribes inhabited the territory of present-day Switzerland centuries before the arrival of the Romans. They were in close (trade) contact with Germanic tribes, the Mediterranean region and northern countries.

 After Rome’s occupation (15-13 BC) and already Geneva (Genava in 122 BC), the construction of towns, roads and transport over mountain passes, rivers, and lakes began. Four centuries of Roman rule led to the ‘Romanisation’ of the local Celtic and Rhaetian population. A Gallo-Roman culture and language appeared. Only the elite Romanised entirely, including the use of the Latin language.

The area became a significant European trade and transportation hub. Several Alpine passes were already used in Roman times (the Gotthard Pass became accessible around 1230).

 The Middle Ages

 After the Romans had left, German-speaking tribes invaded the country. The area had around 200,000 inhabitants in the year 500 and around 500,000 in the year 1,000.

The Alemanni replaced the Gallo-Roman language and culture in Eastern, Central, and Northern Switzerland. The development in the Canton of Graubünden was different. The Romansh language replaced Latin as the primary language until the nineteenth century (apart from a few Walser enclaves ), after which German replaced Romansh as the first language, except for five Romansh-speaking regions and idioms.

 In the western part of the country, French became the primary language. Italian was the language of the territories conquered in the 15th and 16th centuries. The French, Italian, and German language borders hardly changed in the centuries after 1500, although Freiburg became increasingly Fribourg, and there were some other exceptions.

 Merovingians, Carolingians, Zwabian Dukes and Burgundian kings, abbeys, bishoprics (Geneva, Lausanne, Sion, Chur, Basel and Constance (nowadays Germany) played a prominent political (and military) role in the centuries following the departure of the Romans in the fifth century.

 The political map of the cantons (the name “canton” first appears in the sixteenth century) and Orte took shape over centuries following the 13th century. The significance of the Jura, the Three Lakes region, the Alps, the rivers, and the mountain passes for goods and passenger traffic became increasingly important for European transport of goods and persons.

The Holy Roman Empire and noble dynasties, including those of Kyburg, Habsburg, Savoy, and Zähringen, emerged in prominence after the tenth century. Popes, bishoprics, abbeys, Burgundian dukes, German kings, and (mainly) Habsburg emperors of the Holy Roman Empire were their main secular and religious antagonists or allies until 1499 (Peace of Basel) and 1648 (Peace of Westphalia).

 Habsburg, the Holy Roman Empire and other dynasties had no actual and legal power after 1499, apart from a few areas (Engadin (until 1652), Fricktal (until 1803), Tarasp (until 1803), Rhäzuns (until 1819) and through the appointments of abbots, bishops and friendly/related local rulers.

 The Confederation

 From the 14th century onwards, the ancient Confederation of cantons developed into a uniquely decentralised and democratic structure.

It was a long way with many (military, religious (after 1525), economic and social) conflicts between the cantons and against foreign powers, between urban and rural elites and within cantons.

 From 1798 to 1813, the French occupation triggered reforms that could not be reversed, eventually leading to the present-day Confederation of 26 cantons and four languages.

Change may not always come overnight in Switzerland. The country’s strength lies in its decentralised structure, centuries of ‘co-habitation’, its subsidiarity, industrial and innovative centres in the most remote villages and areas, centuries-old export networks, excellent (vocational) education, the world’s best universities and research institutes, adequate public transport, militia system and direct influence of citizens at the municipal, cantonal and national levels. The citizens are ultimately the sovereign.

 Switzerland is a bottom-up society. In this context, the presence of 2 million residents without a Swiss pass, the reception of a relatively large number of asylum seekers and the daily commute of nearly 400,000 (!!!) employees from Germany, France, Italy and Austria show the cosmopolitan and open character of the society. Switzerland is the true European Union of 26 sovereign cantons.

The Rhaetian Railway Company as Grand Hotel

Which railway company has a slide for children in the carriages and games on and in the tables? Which railway company is (almost) always on time, in all seasons and all weather conditions? Which company has built hundreds of kilometres of rail network over hundreds of viaducts, valleys, mountain passes, rivers, and through mountains and tunnels?

Which railway company drives a 1,906-metre-long train, composed of 25 times four carriages, over a 25-kilometre stretch from Preda to Alvaneu, from the Albula tunnel to the Landwasser viaduct, in the canton of Graubünden?

The history of the Rhaetian Railway Company (die Rhätische Bahn)  began in 1867 with a Dutch merchant. Willem Jan Holsboer (1834-1898) emigrated to Davos that year due to his wife’s illness, Margaret Elisabeth Newell Jones (1847-1867). Holsboer was familiar with railway construction in the Netherlands and had business connections in London, where he had worked at a bank.

Willem-Jan Holsboer (1834-1898), Heimatmuseum Davos. Photo: Wikipedia

Photo in the train of the Rhätische Bahn. Source: www.rhb.ch/fahrzeugnamen

Holsboer took the initiative to establish the first health resorts in Davos between 1871 and 1874, in collaboration with the German doctor Alexander Spengler (1812-1901). Davos, however, was not accessible by rail. Therefore, in 1889, he founded the AG Schmalspurbahn Landquart-Davos. The first trains began running in 1890. A new joint-stock company, the Rhätian Bahn, was founded in 1897, with its headquarters in Chur, located in the Villa Planta.

The railway network expanded to almost every corner of the canton. Today, the Rhaetian Railway has a rail network of 345 kilometres. The best-known (tourist) connections are the Bernina Express and the Glacier Express.

The Bernina Express runs a 122-kilometre route from Thusis on the Hinterrhein to Tirano in Italy. The line runs through the Albula Valley, via St. Moritz to Pontresina, along the Morteratsch Glacier and the Piz Bernina (4049 m) to Alp Grüm and the Bernina Pass (2,253 m) and through Val Poschiavo to Tirano in Italy.

Poster of the Bernina Express

The Glacier Express runs to Zermatt from Chur over the Rhine Gorge (the Rheinschlucht or Ruinaulta).

Not only is its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site what makes the Rhätische Bahn special in all seasons, but it also offers a unique experience. The quality, service and comfort are exceptional as well.

Like the SBB, the Rhätische Bahn operates with precision, offering the comfort of a Grand Hotel, much like the company’s headquarters in Chur.

Chur, Building of the Rhätische Bahn, on the right Villa Planta (the Bündner kunstmuseum Chur)

Verkehrshaus der Schweiz, Lucerne

Friends and passengers can make an informative and entertaining stop at the Albula Railway Museum in Bergün/Bravuogn.

The Bahnmuseum Albula

(Source and further information: Rhätische Bahn, Bernina Express, Glacier Express)

In the winter

The Morteratsch glacier

Filisur, Landwasserviadukt

and in the summer

Pinocchio in Riom

Carlo Collodi’s (1826-1890) children’s novel Pinocchio is on the Christmas programme in the romantic Clavadeira in Riom (canton Graunbunden). This extraordinary story is about becoming an adult, a humorous meditation on freedom, and a touching evening for the whole family.

Every child knows Pinocchio, the stubborn puppet from Master Gepetto’s carpenter’s workshop. When he lies, his nose grows. When he is naughty, his carpenter father cries. But the wooden boy is much more than a disobedient marionette. Pinocchio wants to become a real boy, a fully-fledged human being. The path to get there is long, bold and adventurous.

Yaiza Coll’s (b. 1994) new choreography for Origens Winter Theatre is danced by Borja Bermudez, Marc Jubete, Nicolas Gläsmann, Alex Vazquez Gala and Júlia Martí Gasull. The performers are familiar guests on Origens’ stages. Most recently, they interpreted the anniversary play ‘1524‘ on the birth of the Free State of the Three Leagues (Freistaat der Drei Bünde) on the open-air stage in Lantsch, breathing life into the historical figures.

Performances: Riom, Clavadeira, 5:30 p.m.: 23, 27, 28, 29 and 30 December 2024 and 2, 3 and 4 January 2025

(source and further information: Nova Fundaziun Origen)

The Landsgemeinde and Direct Democracy

A (historical) knowledge of the Landsgemeinde is indispensable for understanding the emergence and functioning of direct democracy in Switzerland.

This article provides a broad outline of the subject. It shows that the basis of Swiss direct democracy is centuries old. The political choice in the nineteenth century resulted from fierce discussions and profound controversies. The introduction of direct democracy was not self-evident.

The Constitution of 1848, poster. Nationalmuseum Zurich. Photo: TES.

The Landsgemeinde

A Landsgemeinde cannot be translated literally. The medieval Landsgemeinde was a political organisation on a territory with far-reaching autonomy, self-government, and direct democracy for the (male) citizens of the various communes. Currently, a canton or district is probably the closest equivalent. The Landsgemeinde was the sovereign. The concept of direct democracy was and is unique in Europe and far beyond.

There were large and small Landsgemeinde. This political unit originated in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries in eight present-day cantons: Appenzell Innerrhoden, Appenzell Ausserrhoden (formerly Appenzell), Zug, Uri, Schwyz, Glarus, Obwalden, and Nidwalden.

Furthermore, there are similar institutions in Graubünden (Gerichte) and Valais (Zehnden or Dizains).

In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the Landsgemeinde was still (formally) part of the territory of the Lord, usually a count or an abbot. However, the House of Habsburg played an increasingly prominent role in this region.

The bailiff (Landvogt) represented the Lord. He governed the territory and spoke on behalf of the Lord at the (annual) assemblies (Landtag).

Due to the difficult accessibility of central Switzerland, the Landsgemeinde and the Ammann, the highest official of the Landsgemeinde, replaced the Bailiff and the authority of the Lord.

At the end of the thirteenth/beginning of the fourteenth century, the Landsgemeinde exercised jurisdiction, legislation, and administration in the cantons of Uri, Schwyz, Obwalden, and Nidwalden. They are the so-called ‘Urkantone’ of the Federation.

They were small farming and trading republics. During this period, the alliance of the first Eidgenossen (1291) was formed, and the legend of William Tell emerged. Battles against the Habsburgs, including those at Morgarten (1315) and Sempach (1386), as well as conflicts with other Habsburg cities in Switzerland, also occurred.

The cantons also came into contact with the Italian republics on the other side of the Gotthard after the opening of the St. Gotthard pass (1230). Perhaps it was a source of inspiration for the republican spirit in central Switzerland.

Moreover, the Habsburg sovereign granted them the status of free imperial cities (Reichsunmittelbarkeit) in the thirteenth and early fourteenth centuries: Uri in 1230, Schwyz in 1240, Obwalden and Nidwalden in 1309. They no longer depended on interventions or the authority of local rulers.

Due to the region’s inaccessibility from October to April, they became increasingly independent and acted accordingly.

Altdorf, canton of Uri. Photo: TES.

Political concept

The political concept of these autonomous republics was successful and was imitated by Zug (1376), Glarus (1387), and Appenzell (1387). The smallest republic in the world, the Freistaat Gersau, was also a Landsgemeinde from 1433 until 1798.

The Landsgemeinde was the highest judicial, legislative, and executive power. The separation of powers did not yet exist.

The citizens (men) elected the officials in direct elections or voted on the policies of the Landsgemeinde. These votes and elections took place annually or more frequently if necessary by raising hands.

The Landsgemeinde voted on peacekeeping, war and peace, negotiations and treaties, conflict management, granting citizenship to newcomers, and many other subjects. The citizens were the sovereign.

Democracy in those days meant something different from what it does today. A few powerful families ruled, and corruption, bribery and other practices were common. However, the consent of the citizens of the Landsgemeinde was always required, and the concept was unique.

The voters were male citizens aged 16 (sometimes 14). This citizenship was strictly defined. The citizenship of a municipality or canton continues to play a significant role in Switzerland’s current electoral and social system.

As a de facto sovereign republic with direct democracy, the Landsgemeinde gained significant prestige not only within Switzerland but also far beyond its borders. In 1513, the Swiss Confederation expanded to thirteen members, many allies (Zugewandte Orte), and conquered territories (Untertanengebiete/Gemeine Herrschaften).

The other cantons, Bern, Solothurn, Zurich, Basel, and Schaffhausen, did not have a Landsgemeinde or direct democracy. Instead, the cities were ruled by an oligarchy or aristocracy of guilds and families.

Republic of Gersau, town hall. Photo: TES.

1798-1891

Many European writers, statesmen, philosophers, and travellers in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were deeply impressed by this form of government and the absence of kings, princes and aristocrats. It was indeed unique.

The Landsgemeinde gained popularity after Napoleon abolished it in 1798. The unitary Helvetian Republic (1798-1803) was at odds with the centuries-old concepts of self-governance by the cantons. The Act of Mediation (Mediationsakte/Acte de Médiation) established the new Confederation (1803-1815) and the sovereign cantons.

This Confederation was dissolved after Napoleon’s defeat in 1813. In 1815, a new confederation of 22 sovereign cantons, including the Landsgemeinde in some of these cantons, was established.

The prestige of the Landsgemeinde and its direct democracy remained high following the 1815 period. However, most of the 22 cantons of the Confederation of 1815 never had a Landsgemeinde or a form of direct democracy. They were republics governed by an oligarchy or aristocracy of (old) families without direct democracy.

The Regeneration Movement demanded and obtained direct democracy in 1830 in 11 cantons. This led to a confrontation between the Ancien Régime and the (new) liberal bourgeoisie in the cities. The ideals of the French Revolution (1789) and the American Constitution (1786) were other sources of inspiration.

The canton of Vaud introduced direct democracy in 1845, and other cantons followed soon after. In 1848, the Constitution of the new Confederation introduced the first compulsory referendum: a referendum on constitutional amendments. After 1848, canton after canton introduced the optional referendum and the popular initiative.

This development led to the introduction of the optional referendum (fakultatives Referendum) at the federal level in 1874 and to the introduction of the popular initiative (Volksinitiative) in 1891.

The cantons and municipalities also introduced these and other instruments of direct democracy in their respective constitutions.

Glarus. Photo: TES

Conclusion

The Landsgemeinde still traditionally functions in the cantons of Glarus and Appenzell Innerrhoden. The other cantons introduced the secret ballot, although the system still exists in a few districts.

However, the concept of direct democracy remains unchanged. It is an indispensable, successful and fundamental element of the Swiss political system at the municipal, cantonal and federal levels.

This system is the result of a political choice made by the cantons and the people in the 19th century, as founders of the Confederation and the Constitution of 1848. The country and most citizens no longer want or can do without direct democracy and the decentralised Confederation. After all, the citizens are the politicians.

The Landsgemeinde and direct democracy are not outdated, but rather a modern, transparent, effective, and necessary concept of democracy.

(Source: Hans Stadler, “Landsgemeinde”, in: Historisches Lexikon der Schweiz (HLS); Louis Carlen, “Die Landsgemeinde”, in: Andreas Auer (Hg.): Die Ursprünge der schweizerischen direkten Demokratie (1996).