Huguenot and Waldensian trail

The European Cultural Route of the Huguenot and Waldensian trail celebrates its completion in Thayngen (Canton Schaffhausen) on 24 September. It connects French-speaking and German-speaking Switzerland with Piedmont, southern France and Germany.

The Stiftung VIA – Auf den Spuren der Hugenotten und Waldenser (VIA Foundation – In the Footsteps of the Huguenots and Waldensians) has been working on realising this route through Switzerland since 2011. Local associations in Geneva, Vaud, Aargau, Zurich and Schaffhausen have supported the VIA Foundation in implementing the project.

On Sunday, 24 September, guests from Switzerland, France and Germany and a choir from the mountain village of Rorà in the Waldensian valleys of Piedmont will celebrate the opening of the last stretch of the Cultural Route.

The unifying element is the memory of refugees who fled in their thousands from southern France and Piedmont from 1685 onwards, travelling from Geneva via Bern to the border in Schaffhausen. They were then able to build a new existence in various German principalities.

An information stele will be unveiled at the border in Barzheim. The day will end at 4 p.m. with a celebration in the Reformed Church in Thayngen, accompanied by the Waldensian Choir. The Ukrainian author Olena Pantsiuk will read from her memories as a war refugee.

(Source and further information: Stiftung VIA – Auf den Spuren der Hugenotten und Waldenser)

Four Castles for Refugees

What do Arenenberg Castle (Salenstein, Canton Thurgau), Wartegg Castle (Rorschacherberg, Canton St. Gallen), Coppet Castle and Prangins Castle (Canton Vaud) have in common? These four castles served as places of refuge for monarchs in exile or for exiles from their respective regimes.

Coppet Castle, located in the municipality of the same name, was the place of exile for Madame de Staël (1766-1817) and her entourage for a long time during the Napoleonic era (1799-1813).

Arenenberg Castle was the residence of Hortense de Beauharnais (1783-1837) and her son Louis-Napoleon (1808-1873), French Emperor from 1851-1871, from 1817. Hortense was the wife of Louis Bonaparte (1778-1846), King of Holland (1806-1810).

Prangins Castle was the property and temporary residence of Joseph Bonaparte (1768-1844), King of Spain (1808-1813), from 1814-1827.

Wartegg Castle

Wartegg Castle was the destination of fugitive French aristocrats in 1789, including Marquis de Bombelles (1744-1822). Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1819-1864), Duchess and Regent of Parma, bought the castle in 1859 after the Italian Risorgimento. On the other side of Lake Constance, the Grand Duke of Tuscany Ferdinand IV (1835-1908) built his villa in Lindau after the Risorgimento.

Zita (1892-1989), the granddaughter of the duchess, married Archduke Charles I of Austria (1887-1922), the last Emperor of Austria (1916-1918), in 1911. The imperial family lived in the palace for a few months after leaving Vienna in 1919. Karl’s brother lived in Basel from 1919 to 1934.

Brief history

Wartegg Castle was built in 1557 by Kaspar Blarer von Wartensee (1524-1585). He lived in Wartensee Castle in Rorschacherberg. Rorschacherberg has two other castles: St. Anna Castle, which dates back to the 12th century, and Wiggen Castle, built in 1573.

The territorial interests of the Abbey of St. Gallen and the Bishopric of Constance, as well as the location on Lake Constance and the road from St. Gallen to Constance, contributed to the density of castles in a village with a few hundred inhabitants.

Another inhabitant of Wartegg is also of interest. Sebastian Peregrin Zwyer von Evibach (1597-1661) inhabited the castle around 1650. Together with Rudolf Wettstein (1594-1666, Mayor of Basel), he was the Confederation’s most important negotiator in 1648 during the Westphalia peace talks. At the end of the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), the peace treaty achieved (de facto) independence and recognition of the Confederation of 13 cantons as a sovereign state.

From an architectural point of view, however, Louise de Bourbon laid the foundations for the present splendour of the complex and the English Garden in the years 1860-1864. The de Bourbon-Parma family sold the castle in 1924, and today it is a hotel-restaurant and a venue for cultural events.

The English composer Robert Lucas Pearsall (1795-1856) bought the castle in 1842 and lived there until his death. 

The Confoederatio Helvetica

The abbreviation CH is derived from the official Latin name “Confoederatio Helvetica”. Curia Confoederatis Helveticae (CH) appears on the facade of the Federal Palace in Bern.

Switzerland is the only European country with a Latin abbreviation that has no linguistic relation to its current name, ‘Switzerland’ (Die Schweiz/la Suisse). Helvetica refers to the Celtic tribe of Helvetians that inhabited the Swiss midlands more than 2,000 years ago.

Bern, the federal palace (Bundeshaus/palais fédéral)

Melide, Swiss Miniature

The alpine pastor and not Wilhelm Tell, five frank coin from 1920.

An alliance of the Orte Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden formed the (official) beginning of today’s Swiss Confederation. The term canton dates back to the 16th century. This alliance was ratified with an oath (Eid) in 1291, hence the names Eidgenossen and Eidgenossenschaft.

Such alliances between cities and regions were common at the time. Other cities, such as Bern and Freiburg, also formed alliances decades before 1291. What is unique about these alliances is that they led to today’s country with its 26 sovereign cantons!

The Hanseatic League (from the 12th to the 16th century), the Rhineland League of Cities (1254-1257, 1381-1389), the Schmalkaldic League (1530-1546), the Swabian League of Cities (1331-1381), the Swabian League (1488-1534) and, for example, the Ten Cities League or Decapolis (1354-1679) are examples of alliances that existed only for shorter or longer periods.

The 1291 alliance was renewed in 1315. The document has survived and is today on display at the Bundesbriefmuseum in Schwyz.

Landesmuseum Zurich, the Tagsatzung of the 13 cantons (top) and a later copy of the 1291 Charter (bottom).

The Confederation developed over the centuries. In 1513, for example, an Eidgenossenschaft of 13 German-speaking cantons (only Fribourg/Freiburg was bilingual) gradually emerged, but without a federal constitution. The cantons were sovereign.

Today’s canton of Graubünden also shows the uniqueness of the Confederation. In the late Middle Ages, Graubünden consisted of three sovereign republics: the Gotteshausbund (1367), the Obere- or Graue Bund (1395 ), hence the name Graubünden, and the Zehngerichtenbund (1436). These three sovereign republics united in 1524 to form the Free State of the Three Leagues (Freistaat der Drei Bünde). This sovereign state became an ally of the Confederation and eventually a canton in 1803.

The Peace of Westphalia (1648) confirmed the independence and sovereignty of the Swiss Confederation. After annexing a part of the prince-bishopric of Basel in 1792/1793, the French army invaded Switzerland in 1798.

Napoleon then founded the Helvetic Republic (1798-1803), a unitary state that replaced the age-old cantons’ independence, modelled on the Batavian Republic (1795) in the Netherlands. However, resistance from the cantons was so strong that this republic ceased to exist in 1803.

Picture: Nidwalder Museum, Stans

In 1803, Napoleon established a new confederation by the Act of Mediation (Mediationsakte/Acte de Médiation). This Confederation (1803-1813) comprised thirteen old and six new cantons (Aargau, Ticino, St. Gallen, Thurgau, Vaud, and Graubünden), totalling 19 cantons.

After Napoleon’s defeat and the Congress of Vienna in 1815, the new Confederation consisted of 22 cantons, including the newly established cantons of Valais, Geneva, and Neuchâtel. This Confederation was based on an agreement (Bundesvertrag) between the cantons. There was still no federal constitution. The canton of Jura was created in 1979 as a separation from the canton of Bern, to which it had belonged since 1815 (Congress of Vienna).

The Constitution of 1848

Following the Sonderbund War of 1847, a conflict between Catholic cantons that opposed a strong confederation and Protestant and some Catholic cantons that favoured one, the Federal Constitution of 1848 confirmed the status quo of the current Confederation.

In 1874 and 1891, two crucial instruments were introduced, enabling male citizens (and, since 1971, female voters) to influence federal legislation and even the Constitution: the optional referendum (facultatives Referendum) for national legislation and the popular initiative (Volksinitiative) for changes to the Constitution. The mandatory (obligatorisches referendum) for a constitutional amendment by the government already existed in 1848.

The revision of 1874. Collection Landesmuseum Zurich

The constitutional amendments of 1 January 2000 confirm the relationship between the Confederation, cantons, municipalities and citizens and the primacy of federal law over cantonal law.

The Confederation has jurisdiction in all areas expressly assigned to it by the Constitution, i.e. only with the consent of the citizens and cantons. Other tasks and powers are the responsibility of the cantons. The cantons, in turn, delegate powers to the municipalities. Even within the cantons and municipalities, citizens have the final say in referendums and popular initiatives. At this level, citizens also have the last or first word!

The national government is called the Bundesrat/Conseil fédéral. The Constitution provides for seven ministers for seven departments.

The national parliament

The Swiss parliament consists of two chambers. The Upper House is the First Chamber or National Representation of the People (Nationalrat/Conseil national), and the Lower House is the Second Chamber or Senate or the Council of States (Ständerat/Conseil d’Etats), which represents the twenty-six cantons.

These two chambers are the National Assembly (Bundesversammlung/Assemblée fédérale). It consists of 246 members: 200 members of the National Representation and 46 members of the Council of States.

The 46 members of the Council of States represent their canton with two delegates per canton. Six cantons (Obwalden, Nidwalden, Basel-Stadt, Basel-Landschaft, Appenzell Innerrhoden and Appenzell Ausserrhoden) have one seat.

The Landsgemeinde Trogen (Kanton Appenzell Ausserrhoden) 1814. collection: Kantonsbibliothek Appenzell Ausserrhoden

Cantons and municipalities

The Constitution recognises municipalities as Switzerland’s oldest bodies. They existed long before the cantons and much longer before the Confederation of 1848.

The municipality is the smallest political unit in Switzerland. There are about 2,200 municipalities. The municipalities perform the tasks assigned to them by the cantonal Constitution.

In the larger municipalities (except for Rapperswil-Jona in the canton of St. Gall), about one in five, the legislature is represented by a parliament, and in the others, by a municipal assembly in which all residents with voting rights can participate.

Switzerland functions on the principle of subsidiarity. (Delegated) Power is exercised first by the municipalities, then by the cantons and then by the Confederation. Those directly affected should make the decisions. Communes, municipalities, or cities are the micro-laboratories of direct democracy, followed by the cantons.

Bern, the federal palace and the 26 cantons, Canton Jura was added in 1979 

Each canton has its Constitution, parliament, government and courts. The cantons are sovereign unless they have ceded powers to the Confederation. In many areas (including health, education, justice, police, and taxation), they have a high degree of autonomy.

Police, justice and judiciary

The cantons have sovereignty over the organisation of police, justice and the courts, but within the framework of and respecting federal law, the federal Constitution and international treaties. The highest court is the Federal Supreme Court (Bundesgericht/Tribunal fédéral) in Lausanne. It has three specialised courts in Bellinzona (criminal law), St Gallen (administrative law) and Lucerne (social security law).

Conclusion

Switzerland is linguistically, religiously, culturally, and economically divided. Yet, at the political level, it functions (relatively) well. The 26 fountains in front of the federal parliament symbolise this unity in the diversity of the cantons.

Geneva, national referendum, September 2022

Direct democracy, federalism, subsidiarity and the unique electoral system are the pillars of the system. The electoral system has a combination of proportional representation for the legislative bodies (the parliaments at national, cantonal and municipal levels) and an absolute majority per candidate in the governments of the cantons and municipalities and the national senate in general elections. The national parliament chooses the federal government members by an absolute majority of votes.

In 1848, however, the country’s current situation was not self-evident. It emerged from a medieval alliance of predominantly sovereign German-speaking towns and cantons.

Between 1291 and 1848, numerous (armed) conflicts existed between the cantons or even within individual cantons. The slogan unus pro omnibus, omnes pro uno at the entrance to the federal parliament in Bern only reflected reality after 1848.

The Constitution of 1848 determines the sovereign powers of the cantons and the people. Only they can delegate powers to the federal level.

In recent decades, however, power has shifted upwards, and the autonomy of municipalities, cantons, and citizens has come under pressure. This discussion is particularly relevant at a time of numerous crises.

The central question is: how (and if so ) can today’s (global) problems be solved at the lowest possible level, the principle of subsidiarity and the milice system (Milizsystem/système de milice)?

On the other hand, there is a distinction between the cantons and the Swiss people as founders of the Confoederatio Helvetica and the federal system at the national level. The people and the cantons are and remain sovereign unless powers have been transferred to the Confederation. The people and the cantons can (theoretically) reverse these powers at any time.

Bern, the federal palace

Melide, Swiss Miniature

Maximilian’s Procession in Basel

Almost 525 years after his defeat in 1499 in the Swabian War, the triumphal entry of Emperor Maximilian (1459-1519) into Basel represents not only a historical moment but also an art-historical and musical monument.

With the colossal painting, Maximilian commissioned a project around 1510 that dwarfed all previous projects. ReRenaissance takes the image as the occasion for the festival Music and Power—Maximilian’s Triumphal Entry into Basel (Musik und Macht. Maximilians Triumphzug).

For three days, from 22 to 24 September, more than 50 musicians will present a varied music programme related to the imperial court.

Ludwig Senfl (c. 1486-1543) worked at Maximilian’s court and is considered Switzerland’s most famous Renaissance composer. His songs range from the subdued “Patientiam” to the exuberant “Oho, so geb der Mann ein Pfenning”. The festival presents his works in all their shades.

The printer Peter Schöffer (1475-1547) published a collection of songs for Maximilian. Lost music books turned up in an estate in 2020, and more than a third of the songs could be reconstructed. They represent the height of song art at Maximilian’s court.

Various formations will perform this and other partly unknown court music. The festival also unites 30 musicians in a large orchestra for the gala concert in the Martinskirche on 23 September.

(Source and further information: ReRenaissance-Forum Frühe Musik)

Swiss Culture in Perspective

Indian Switzerland, African Switzerland, Little Switzerland, Switzerland of Cameroun, Switzerland of the Orient, Subtropical Switzerland, Switzerland Rangers, Danish Switzerland, Berlin Switzerland, Swiss Canyon, Salvadoran Switzerland, Central American Switzerland, la Suiza Argentina, la Suiza Peruana or Austrian Switzerland, Switzerland is well represented all over the world and on the five continents.

Switzerland in the World

Adjacent to the Federal Palace (Bundeshaus) in Bern is a stone garden featuring a sculpture by the artist George Steinmann. Five groups of rocks are on a rectangular surface of white gravel, each embodying one of the five continents.

The stones in the sculpture come from five continents and were taken from areas, landscapes, hills and places that bear the name ‘Switzerland’ (translated from the national language). In these foreign ‘Swiss’ areas, where the stones are now missing, a sign indicates how far away you would find them again (in Bern).

The designations are usually due to a resemblance to the Swiss landscape or the presence of Swiss emigrants. It turns out that Switzerland is represented in many countries. Switzerland is, therefore, known all over the world.

But how well-known is Swiss culture abroad? Under the title: “Swiss culture: an export product?” some 300 participants and experts discussed this topic at the 99th Congress of the Organisation of the Swiss Abroad SwissCommunity in St. Gallen (18-20 August). Another matter was the political participation of Swiss citizens abroad and e-voting in preparation for the federal elections on 22 October.

Ariane Rustichelli, Director of the Organisation of the Swiss Abroad SwissCommunity

Political participation and E-voting

At its meeting on 16 August 2023, the Federal Council decided that the e-voting system may be used in the national elections on 22 October in the cantons of Basel-Stadt, St Gallen and Thurgau. Swiss nationals living abroad and registered in the voting register of these cantons can elect their representatives to parliament electronically.

The cantons have always been a constitutional and political ‘laboratory’ for federal constitutional issues. These pilot projects could be the prelude to E-voting’s (re)introduction.

Members of the Swiss Community also passed a resolution to establish a working group to increase the political participation of the ‘Fifth Switzerland’. This working group will cooperate with other similar organisations.

Members also requested further federal support for their engagement. It is also topical because emigration is often only temporary today. Moreover, foreign perspectives, experiences and concepts can enrich Switzerland.

Martin Candinas, president of the National Council

Swiss culture – an export product?

“My office as President of the National Council has often taken me abroad this year. What always impresses me are the encounters with Swiss citizens. These encounters have shown me that Swiss culture is not just a product for export. I think we can speak of an export success“.

With these words (after welcoming those present in Romansh (Sursilvan), National Council President Martin Candinas introduced the topic.

Although it may be an export success, Switzerland, as a culturally rich country, is relatively unknown abroad, not only on other continents but also in Europe. A recent survey shows that other Europeans associate Switzerland with mountains, nature, cheese, chocolate, skiing, fondue and other topics, but rarely or not at all with culture.

Alexandre Edelmann (Director a.i. of Präsenz Schweiz) during his speech about the survey

Is it the Swiss modesty, the presentation, the lack of aristocratic and princely courts, or a golden age in earlier times? The Swiss cultural landscape has always been internationally oriented, and even today, many scientists, architects, writers, musicians, and other artists are shaping the international stage in various fields, often without revealing their nationality.

In itself, it is not relevant. The proof of the pudding is in the eating. Switzerland’s culture is omnipresent in music, visual arts, theatre, dance, literature, and modern media, and is often organised at the local, cantonal, or communal level. The quality is high in the numerous museums, concert halls, villages, towns, parks, and even at 2,284 metres!

Swiss culture is bottom-up and decentralised. It has always been a motor for (international) contacts, innovation, creativity and organisational success. But perhaps this federal, decentralised cultural scene is a reason for the (relative) unfamiliarity with Switzerland as a cultural country.

The Béjard Ballet in Lausanne, the Salle de la Musique in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the jazz festivals in Montreux or St. Moritz, the paper cutting in Château d’Oex, the Ziegler ceramics in Schaffhausen, the Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein, the Fondation Pierre Gianadda, the watch industry, the broderie in eastern Switzerland, the music festivals in Lucerne or Gstaad, the Michalski Fondation in Montricher, the Beyeler Fondation in Riehen or the baroque orchestra La Cetra in Basel are just a few examples. Many Swiss artists are also active in other countries.

Tradition and innovation

Conclusion

The cultural landscape of Switzerland has always been internationally known but almost always ‘low profile’, in contrast to the 48 mountains with a very high profile. The humanist Desiderius Erasmus (1467-1536) already appreciated this environment.

Laufen, a portrait through History

In Roman times (15 B.C.-410 A.D.), a road ran from Val Terbi (canton of Jura) via Laufen and the Platten Pass to the Rhine Bend (Rheinknie) bei Basel and Augusta Raurica. The excavation of a large Roman villa revealed valuable artefacts.

The construction of the first St. Martin church is dated to the time of Frankish rule (6th-8th century). The settlement owed its name to the Birs’ waterfall, the “Laufen”. Laufen used to mean waterfall.

The Untertor (a. 1300)

Laufen was first mentioned in documents in 1141, when King Konrad III (1094-1152) donated the ‘Courtis Loufen’, previously owned by the monastery of St Blasien (Black Forest, nowadays Baden-Wurttemberg), to the prince-bishopric of Basel. Laufen received city rights in 1295.

Around 1300, the Count of Pfirt was the lord of the Dinghof Laufen. A Dinghof is the German name for an estate with its own jurisdiction in the Middle Ages. Half of it passed later to the Habsburgs by inheritance, while the other half went to the prince-bishopric.

The Lords of Ramstein, later the new owners of Zwingen Castle, became the Lords of Ramstein. In 1459, this dynasty was extinguished, and the bishop of Basel acquired the territory and rights.

The Obertor (a. 1300)

The Wassertor (a. 1300)

Laufen concluded a treaty with the city of Basel (thus not with the bishop) and converted to the new faith in 1525. In 1589, however, Bishop Christoph Blarer von Wartensee (1542-1608, based in Pruntrunt) dissolved this treaty and implemented the Counter-Reformation. The bishop still owned the city.

The construction of the Baroque Katharina Church was completed in 1698. A chapel already stood on this site in the 14th century.

In 1792, France occupied Laufen, and the Raurakian Republic was declared (1792-1793). In 1793, Laufen was assigned to the Mont-Terrible department and, in 1800, to the new Haut-Rhin department.

By decision of the Congress of Vienna (1814-1815), the town was assigned to the canton of Bern. Since 1 January 1994, following a referendum, the city has belonged to the canton of Basel-Landschaft.

The main cultural sights are the St. Katharinen church, the three city gates, parts of the city wall, the main street, the prehistoric dolmen and the Birs.

(Source and further information: Gemeinde Laufen)

The Birs

The Katharinenkirche

The former city hall, 15th century. 

Helias Helye

Museum Laufental

Monument 1914-1918 

The Federal Square of Bern

The part of the city centre, the Federal Square (Bundesplatz) in Bern, was once part of the medieval fortifications and features a moat called the ‘Oberer Graben’. They were built before 1256.

This area developed further between the years 1570 and 1630. The Square reached its present form in the 19th and 20th centuries.

In 1858, the city commissioned a monumental fountain to adorn the square in front of the new Federal Palace. The basin was designed by the architect of the Palace, Friedrich Studer (1817-1879). The four swans are the work of sculptor Joseph Hubert Verbunt (1809-1870). They symbolise the four rivers: the Rhone, the Rhine, the Reuss and the Ticino. The principal figure represents Berna (modelled in 1863 by the sculptor Rahpael Christen (1811-1880), goddess of the city, and not Helvetia.

The Federal Square is bounded by the Parliament Building of the Swiss Confederation and the seat of the Federal Government (Curia Confoederationis Helveticae), the Swiss National Bank (Schweizerische Nationalbank) and the Bernese Cantonal Bank (Berner Kantonalbank). The fountain has 26 water jets, representing the 26 cantons.

(Source: www.bundesplatz.bern.ch).

The Clock Tower of Bern

Switzerland is a country of wristwatches, meteorological clocks, and astronomical clocks. The Zytglogge (also known as the Zeitglockenturm) is the first western gate of the city of Bern and was built between 1200 and 1256. The tower was integrated into the city wall on both sides. Today, it is part of the rows of houses.

The tower is in the centre of the old town. The overall appearance was completed in 1770, incorporating the astronomical clock and the music box, which were installed between 1527 and 1530. Old units of measurement and town histories can be seen in the gateway.

City histories by Gotthard Ringgli (1575-1635), c. 1607-1610. The granting of the Handveste by Emperor Frederick II in 1221.

Gotthard Ringgli, Duke Berchtold V of Zähringen commissioned Cuno von Bubenberg to build the town. The pictures are copies of the originals in the Bernese Historical Museum.

Meteorological clocks

Bern

Sils Maria

Chur

Wristwatches

Collection: Omega Museum Biel

The Reuss, Aare, Aareschlucht, Rhine, Limmat and Swiss Koblenz

Koblenz (canton of Aargau) is the confluence site of the Aare and the Rhine. The Aare is the largest tributary of the Rhine, with more cubic metres of water per second than the Main or the Moselle at Koblenz in Germany.

Switzerland is the water castle of Europe. The area in the triangle of Brugg, Turgi, and Klingnau, where the three rivers Aare, Reuss, and Limmat merge into the Aare at the Gebenstorfer district Vogelsang, is referred to as the water castle (Wasserschloss) of Switzerland.

The Rhine and the Reuss originate in the Gotthard massif. The source of the Aare is the Oberaar glacier in the Bernese Alps. The river then flows through Lake Thun and Brienz, Bern, and the canton of Solothurn. The Limmat is an outflow of Lake Zurich.

It was canalised in the Correction of Jurassic Waters in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. After absorbing the Limmat, it enters the Rhine near Koblenz.

The Aare is the longest river flowing exclusively on Swiss soil, measuring 295 kilometres.

The beginning of the Aareschlucht near Meiringen

The end of the Aareschlucht

Meiringen, Sherlock Holmes et James Moriarty

The Aare in Solothurn

The Aare, The Rhine and the Reuss near Koblenz

The Rhine near Kaiseraugst