The villages of Göschenen, Wassen and the Tunnels which Connect Europe

The mountain village of Göschenen and Wassen on the Gotthard Route made history when it constructed the world’s longest railway tunnel. From the 13th century onwards, the mule track on the St. Gotthard developed into one of the most important European Alpine roads, first through the railway and later the motorway.

This history began around 1220-1230. The cantons in Central Switzerland built a road over the Gotthard. The Gotthard Pass became a connection between Italy and northern Europe.

Landesmuseum Zurich

Image: “Historische Reisepost” with the Gotthardpost

The village of Göschenen was a resting place for travellers and their horses. After 1872, the village of a few hundred inhabitants grew to a little town of more than 3,000. The first hotels were built during this period.

The railway tunnel was built between 1872 and 1882. Many foreign (mainly Italian) workers emigrated to Switzerland to work, and many stayed forever.

A regular coach service to Andermatt began after 1882. The famous Postauto later continued this service.

The Gotthard Base Tunnel (2016)

Designed as a flat rail route, the two 57-kilometre single-track tubes in the Gotthard Base Tunnel run up to 2,300 meters under the Alps.

Images:Swiss Museum of Transport (Verkehrshaus der Schweiz, Luzern)

The ‘Zweite Röhre Gotthard’ Project

 

Impressions of Wasser

 

Impressions of Gschenen

 

Dada and the Rowing Club Aviron Romand in Zurich

1916 was not just the year in which Dada was founded. Dada was founded in Zurich on the initiative of artists who had fled the First World War (1914-1918).

In their eyes, the old art world had contributed to making this catastrophe possible and had failed to prevent it. Swiss citizens also joined the movement. Dada meetings were held at the Café Voltaire on the Spiegelstrasse. Dada as a movement only existed briefly until 1920, but its influence extends to the present day.

Members of Aviron Romand around 1910. Photo: 125 ans Aviron Romand

Just a kilometre away, another remarkable event took place in Zurich. In 1892, five (foreign) rowing clubs had their clubhouses on the lake: the Seeclub, Nordiska Roddföreningen (from the four Nordic countries: Finland, Norway, Sweden and Denmark), the Polytechniker Ruderclub Zürich, a Hungarian club and the Aviron Romand (founded in 1892).

During the Röstigraben, French, Swiss, and Alsatian members of Aviron Romand volunteered for the French army and served in the army’s elite: the air force. Even more remarkable, the French 218 escadrille, the unit they served, even adopted the Aviron Romand logo.

The fighter pilot Raoul Coquard (1892) in his Bréguet XIV. Photo: 125 ans Aviron Romand (Archive Familie Coquard)

They fought in the air on all fronts: Verdun, the Somme, Noyon, Saint-Quentin, Flanders, Mont Kemmel and the Marne. They even destroyed two big Berthas (Dicke Berthas in German)! Their prestige was such that the squadron (escadrille) BR 218 received at least seven awards! However, five volunteers did not survive, and six were wounded.

This war took place over 100 years ago. Nevertheless, the Club d’Aviron Romand Zurich (ARZ) still exists in the beautiful complex on Lake Zurich (Zürichsee), along with Nordiska Roddföreningen, Seeclub Zürich, Polytechniker Ruderclub Zürich, Ruderclub Industrieschule Zürich, Grasshopper Club section aviron, Ruderclub Kaufleuten Zürich, Club Nautique Français and Belvoir Ruderclub.

Aviron Romand no longer fights in the air but rows exclusively on the water, sometimes with other clubs from French-speaking Switzerland, such as Société Nautique Neuchâtel, but still in an international setting, even with a French club at the complex today.

The Aviron Romand club’s logo is as simple as its brave deeds remain grandiose: three horizontal red stripes still adorn the club building!

(Source: D. Schaller, D. Masson (ed.), J. Bonhomme, F. Huber, D. Masson, G. de Morsier, R. Obi, M. Sigrist 125 ans Aviron Romand, Zurich 2017)

Launch of the first European trinational master’s program

The Upper Rhine region has been home to one of the most successful European cooperation projects for decades. Regio Basiliensis in Switzerland and organisations in Baden-Württemberg (Germany) and Alsace (France) are the driving forces.

Last 20 September, for example, the opening of the new trinational master’s programme European Digital and Sustainable Business took place. The EM Strasbourg Business School offers this study programme in cooperation with the Hochschule für Wirtschaft FHNW in Basel and the Hochschule Offenburg in Germany.

Companies must also contribute to global sustainability goals. The new two-year course trains future managers in a European context characterised by digital and ecological change.

The master’s degree in European digital and sustainable business enables students to acquire a triple degree combining managerial and technological expertise, professional experience through the management of sustainable projects and business models, and co-op in the second year.

The curriculum is interdisciplinary and strongly practice-oriented. It provides knowledge and skills in sustainable development, business administration, and environmental and digitalization technologies.

Through concrete projects with companies and organizations, students learn to look at complex problems from different perspectives and put into practice innovative, competitive, and comprehensive solutions.

Photo: EM Strasbourg Business School 

Studying in three languages (German, English, and French) and three countries enables graduates to take on responsibilities in international teams. Upon graduation, they receive a triple degree: a master’s degree from each of the three renowned partner universities, making them specialists in digital and sustainable business administration.

  • The first year of the master’s program takes place via full-time study. It is divided between courses at the Hochschule Offenburg in Germany (September to mid-February) and the Hochschule für Wirtschaft FHNW in Basel, Switzerland (March to June).
  • The second year of the master’s program involves full-time co-op: alternating work periods at a host company and study at EM Strasbourg.

Regio Basiliensis has long called for such cross-border networking and cooperation between universities. The organisation addresses specific demands of the political decision-makers in the Upper Rhine region, the relevant ministries in Germany, France, Switzerland, and the European Commission. Switzerland’s rapid and comprehensive association with Horizon Europe and Erasmus+ is central to cooperation and networking.

Regio Basiliensis has also closely followed this project and supported it with know-how, networks, and public relations activities.

(Source and further information: EM Strasbourg Business School)

The Sky is the Limit in Binningen and Franeker

As is well known, the unit of time is the time it takes for planet Earth to orbit the sun in a year. The moon and stars also play a role in measuring time.

In Switzerland, there are 46 observatories, 26 of which are affiliated to the national organisation Schweizerische Astronomische Gesellschaft/Société astronomique suisse. One is the observatory in St. Margarethen near Binningen (Canton of Basel-Landschaft). There are also various planetariums and hiking trails (Planetenwege).

The Bernoullianum

The St Margarethen’s observatory, founded in the 19th century, was initially located in Basel near the Bernoullianum. In 1928, the observatory relocated to its current site and remained under the auspices of the University of Basel until 2007. 

Telescope of the observatory St. Margarethen

The ancient Egyptians, the seafaring Phoenicians, the Greeks and the Romans had already made pioneering investigations and discoveries of the universe and time measurement in years and days. The Vikings, on their (distant) sea voyages, also had the necessary experience of navigation and time measurement based on the stars, planets, sun and moon.

Ancient scientists have already discovered that the sun needs slightly more than 365 days to orbit the sun. This difference manifests in leap years, or 366 days a year, on 29 February.

The Egyptians developed the first calendars, and the Greeks and Romans perfected this system. The Romans are responsible for the names of months and days, as well as the Julian calendar, which remained valid in most of Europe until 1582.

François Ducommun (1763-1839), Planétaire, 1816. Collection: Musée international d’horlogerie

However, time measurement in hours and seconds was only realisable centuries later, after the development of mechanical clocks in the 15th and 16th centuries. The Musée d’horlogerie in Le Locle and the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, celebrating its 50th anniversary, is dedicated to time measurement and its technology. Nowadays, even a measurement in a Femtosecond, or 0.000 000 000 000 001 of a second, is possible. 

In the Western world, Pope Gregory XIII (1502-1585) introduced the Gregorian calendar in 1582. Today, it is the calendar in almost all countries. However, the Chinese, Jewish, Japanese, and Buddhist calendars and other religions and governments are still (formally) different.

The introduction of the Gregorian calendar in Switzerland. Image: Observatory St. Margarethen

The introduction of this (Catholic) calendar was not self-evident in European countries either. In Switzerland, it took until 1812 for all 22 cantons of the Confederation to adopt this calendar. The introduction in the Republic of the United Netherlands also lasted until 1701, with the provinces of Friesland, Groningen, Utrecht and Drenthe as the last territories. 

Torùn, Nikolaus Copernicus

Nikolaus Copernicus (1473-1543) from Toruń (Poland) and Galileo Galilei (1564-1642) from Florence are among the best-known scholars. The Basler scholar Peter Megelin (1623-1686), a professor at the University of Basel, published his pioneering book, Systema Mundi Copernicanum, in Amsterdam in 1682. Johannes Hevelius (1611-1687) from Gdańsk (Danzig) published Selenographia sive Lunae Descriptio and other critical studies, some of which remain valid today.

Images: observatory St. Margarethen

The former observatory in Binningen is dedicated to this history and continues to be used as a measuring instrument for various meteorological purposes. The Astronomische Verein Basel manages the observatory today.

On certain days, the observatory is open to the public, who can use the telescopes (weather permitting). Even with cloudy skies, the observatory is worth visiting for its (scientific and historical) information and simulations of a cloudless sky.

Image: Observatory St. Margarethen

The universe, including the sun, stars, planets, galaxies, and other celestial bodies, anywhere in the world, regardless of religion or political system, has one thing in common: the Sky is the limit, and it never gets boring.

Eise Eisinga (1744-1828) was never bored in Franeker either. In 1781, he completed the world’s oldest still-functioning planetarium (a Unesco World Heritage site). Recently, the calendar was manually adjusted forward one day due to the leap year.

(Source and further information: Astronomischer Verein Basel)

The planet Jupiter. Image: Observatory St. Margarethen

Images: Observatory St. Margarethen

Vals and its Walser, natural phenomena, the Reformation and mineral springs

Avalanches, floods, and rockslides have been omnipresent in Vals in the Valser Valley (Valsertal, Canton Graubünden) for centuries. A Chronicle (die Lawinechronik) has been keeping accurate records of it since 1598.

The floods of 1868 were so severe that the entire village considered emigrating to America. On 20 January 1951, a snow avalanche killed 19 residents. For residents, such events are a disaster.

However, in the Swiss National Park in the Engadine (canton Graubünden), such events are natural phenomena, not called disasters. After all, no people live in this park, and neither animals nor plants discuss them.

Even in prehistoric times, nature made its presence felt. The Flimser Felzsturz, for example, is one such event from 10,000 years ago. The Rheinschlucht between Ilanz and Reichenau is the result, a work of art by nature. However, no people lived in this area at the time, so it was not a disaster.

Vals did not exist back then. However, the Valserberg was a connecting road from Ilanz via the Bernardino Pass to Tessin. The first Romansh-speaking settlement did not arise until the 11th century. Around 1300, the Walser settled in the village, and soon they became the majority. Romansh gave way to the Walser (German-speaking) language, as in neighbouring Obersaxen.

St. Peter and Paul church

The Reformation

The Reformation also led to heated debates and some outbreaks of violence in Vals. The Walser inhabitants wanted to remain predominantly Catholic. According to the Ilanzer Articles of 1524 and 1526, this was possible: the inhabitants of each municipality made the choice themselves, rather than the government, in this case, the Graue Bund or the Freistaat der drei Bünde. Vals, like most Walser villages, remained Catholic.

The village mainly lived on agriculture and cattle breeding until the end of the 19th century. Cattle and agricultural products were traded all seasons over the Valserberg and the St. Bernardino Pass to the Hinterrhein, Bellinzona, and Lugano.

As in many places in Graubünden and other parts of Switzerland, the exploitation of mineral springs and spas, along with the rapid growth of tourism, dramatically changed life. The St. Peter’s spring (St. Peter’s spring) has made the village world-famous, and companies from other continents are now prominently present.

The Valser Wasserwelt

The  ‘Kurhaus Therme’ was inaugurated in 1893. The completely renovated Therme Vals opened its doors on 14 December 1996. The opening of the hydropower plant Zervreila in 1958, as well as ski facilities in 1975 and 1996, also provided a significant economic boost. Vals is one of the highest ski resorts in the canton.

Vals, on the right, the ‘Therme Vals’

One thing has stayed the same: the village is not connected to the railway network. The postal car (Postauto) or one’s transport leads through a beautiful landscape where time has stood still, and avalanches, floods, and rockslides are still natural phenomena.

(Source and further information: Gemeinde Vals; Museum Gandahus)

Impressions of Vals and surroundings

The Brüggastall-with histories of livestock and the library, for a happy future

The garden (der Garten)

The bridge on the Valser Rhein

The surroundings

St. Martin

Evian, Vevey, Savoie and the Ancient Swiss Confederation of Cantons

Politically, linguistically, economically, and culturally, the Lac Léman area has always been a region of intense mutual contact. The bishops of Geneva, the city of Geneva, abbots, counts, and dukes of Savoie, kings of the kingdom of Piedmont-Savoie and France, the Swiss Confederation, Wallis (Valais), and other players determined politics, trade, war, and peace until 1798.

Aix-les-Bains, 1ooo year dynasty of Savoy and dynasty of Savoy (1003-2003)

However, the towns of Evian in Chablais (Department of Haute-Savoie) and Vevey (canton of Vaud), located on Lake Geneva, shared only two brief political periods.

In 1536, Bern conquered Vaud and governed it until 1798. That year, Bern and the Republic of the Seven Tithings Zenden/ Zehnden in German in Oberwallis conquered Chablais from the Duchy of Savoie, including Thonon and Evian. In 1475, Bern had already conquered the present-day Chablais-Vaudois/Waadtlander Chablais.

Hautecombe Abbey (12th century) on Lake Bourget (lac du Bourget), opposite Aix-les-Bains. From the 12th century, the last resting place of the Savoy dynasty. The last Italian king, Umberto II (1904-1983), a direct family descendant, was also buried here in 1983, as was his wife, Marie-Josée of Belgium (1906-2001), in 2001.

Bern ruled Thonon, and the Republic of the Seven Tithings briefly governed Evian. The Treaties of Lausanne (1567) and Thonon (1569) stipulated the return to Savoie and the border at St Gingolph.

Thonon, the French border since 1860

Savoie had been a county for centuries and a duchy from 1416 until 1720, when it became the main area in the kingdom of Piedmont-Savoie (or kingdom of Sardinia), with Turin as its capital.

In 1796, Napoleon defeated this kingdom, and the Treaty of Paris (15 May 1796) made Savoy part of France. In 1798, Napoleon founded the Helvetic Republic, a unitary state (1798-1803), with the canton of Léman as a district. In 1803, the canton of Vaud was established in the new Confederation (1803-1813).

Savoy was annexed by France and incorporated into the département du Mont-Blanc. However, the Vienna Congress (1814/15) largely restored the old order, the Ancien Régime, at least as far as the kingdom of Piedmont-Savoie was concerned, which Savoie regained. Canton Vaud, however, kept its status and even remained a sovereign canton in the new Confederation of 1815.

The Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia was finally split in 1860: Sardinia and the eastern part (including Piedmont and Aosta) joined Italy, and the remaining part (including Savoy) joined France (following a referendum).

Aix-les-Bains, 150-year (1860-2010) accession of Savoy to (empire) France

Political fate only brought together Chablais, Evian, Vaud, and Vevey for a short time, between 1536 and 1567, and between 1798 and 1813. However, Lake Geneva has been the connecting link since Roman times.

Evian is also the site of the famous mineral water by Gabriel Cachat in 1789. He discovered the beneficial effects of the spring water, and Evian soon became a renowned place for the beau monde. La Source Cachat is one of the city’s most famous springs.

The links between Vevey and Evian have always been intense. Trade, viticulture, shipping, shipbuilding, spa and bath houses and tourism on both banks of the lake testify to centuries-old relations.

Port of Evian (above) and Musée des Traditions et des Barques du Léman in Saint-Gingolph (below), shipbuilding on Lake Geneva

Maurice Denuzière (1926), in his preface to his book ‘Helvétie’(1992), appropriately quotes Charles-Ferdinand Ramuz (1878-1947):

« Rappelons-nous le rôle, dit historique, qu’on prétait, placés comme nous sommes entre trois grands pays, c’est-à-dire entre trois cultures, de leur servir d’intermédiaire, d’opérer des rapprochements et, jetant au creuset l’apport de ces divers métaux, d’aboutir, j’imagine, à une sorte d’alliage. Ça s’appelait l’esprit européen. ’

The novel Helvétie, with Vevey as its protagonist, explores the intertwining and interrelationships in Lac Léman from 1800 to 1819.

Impressions of Aix-les-Bains and surroundings

 

The last remnants of the Roman past

Lac du Bourget

Impressions of Evian   

 

  

The Three Leagues and the Canton of Graubünden 1524-2024

From the 5th century onwards, the language spoken in today’s Graubünden was mainly Romansh. However, the influence of German-speaking immigrants (Alemanni) from the north and west (the Walser) gradually grew.

Politically, the area (then called Rhaetia) was divided into several dominions, monasteries, and counties. It was partly owned by the Counts of Tyrol and later by the Habsburgs.

At the end of the fourteenth century, many villages were, in fact, independent small republics or states. The Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and his representatives remained formally the highest rulers, but mainly on paper.

Zuoz, The Plantas were, for example, a powerful dynasty in Upper-Engadin (Oberengadin)

These communities were not democracies in the modern sense of the term. The most essential offices usually remained within the same families, and (religious) abuse of power, vote-buying and corruption were part of everyday life. There was also a social (feudal) division between the nobles, the clergy and peasants/citizens/merchants.

Yet this political and constitutional form of government was unique in Europe. The Landsgemeinde played a crucial role in the growing independence. In the Landsgemeinde, the (male) citizens decided on laws, political offices, judges, war or peace, alliances, and other relevant matters.

Picture: Marco Zanoli/Wikipedia

However, the communities were embedded in the European power constellation, and each village had connections to the great powers of the time—Habsburg, France, Spain, Venice, the Pope, and the Duke of Milan—via dynasties, treaties, and mercenary interests.

The Bündner (and Confederate) mercenaries were in great demand after Morgarten (1315), Sempach (1386), Näfels (1388), Aargau (1415), Thurgau (1460), Murten/Grandson/Nancy (1476-77) and finally the Swabian War/Swiss/Engadine War (1499).

The location of Graubünden was also ideal: the region was close to the most important Italian theatres of war around 1500. At the beginning of the 16th century, the Three Leagues began to conquer Italian territories (the Valtellina, Bormio and Chiavenna). 

The coat of arms: at the top left is the Grey League, at the top right is the League of Ten Ten Jurisdictions with the colours Davos and at the bottom is the League of God’s House, the largest league, and therefore half the coat of arms.

The Three Leagues

The League of God’s House (Gotteshausbund) was founded in 1367, followed by the Grey or Upper League (Grauer or Oberer Bund) in 1395 and the League of Ten Jurisdictions (Zehngerichtenbund) in 1436.

These three leagues initially cooperated in foreign, judicial, and economic policy. They were decentralised organisations with many autonomous villages as decision-makers, which differed from the monarchies’ centralism and top-down organisation.

The Gotteshausbund and the Grauer Bund (1406), the Gotteshausbund and the Zehngerichtenbund (1450/55), and the Grauer Bund and the Zehngerichtenbund (1471) entered into bilateral alliances. They held joint consultations and increasingly presented themselves to the outside world as a state.

Trun, Museum Sursilvan Cuort Ligia Grischa. In this building, the representatives of the Graue Bund convened. 

The three leagues merged to form the Republic of the Free State of the Three Leagues on 23 September 1524. This Republic already had close contact with the Swiss Confederation and the status of an ally or Zugewandter Ort. The Freistaat existed until 1798, and the Tagsaztung (Diet), the meeting of the deputies of the three leagues, took place alternately in Ilanz, Chur, and Davos.

Borderstone of the Gotteshausbund. Collection: Rätisches Museum Chur

The text of the new alliance was almost a repetition of the former bilateral treaties. Still, there were also new texts relating to the administration of the conquered Italian areas (Valtellina, Bormio and Chiavenna), relations with the Confederation, mercenary business, foreign policy, national wars and religion (the Ilanzer Articles of 1524 and 1526).

The Treaty of Alliance of 21 March 1471 (Graubünden State Archives) and the version of the Free State of the Three Leagues of 23 September 1524 (Graubünden State Archives and Nuremberg Germanic Museum) have been preserved in their original form.

In the centuries following 1524, the Reformation and foreign interference (e.g., during the Grisons Troubles of 1618-1639) had a significant impact on the new Republic and its communes, influencing their interests.

Scuol, picture of Jörg Jenatsch

The villages and their most prominent families thought and acted according to their European interests, maintaining connections with Protestants, Catholics, the Habsburgs, France, Venice, and other local rulers. The mercenary business flourished, and Jörg Jenatsch was one of the many warlords who changed partners, whether with the Republic or not.

Chur, the building of the canton’s government since 1803

Napoleon’s political reforms (1798-1813) were ultimately decisive in creating the canton of Graubünden. The canton was founded in 1803 as a member of the new Confederation (1803-1813), replacing the Helvetic Republic (1798-1803).

Since 1848, the canton has been the sovereign entity in Graubünden, rather than the communes.

Source: E. Meyer-Marthaler,Studien über die Anfänge gemeiner Drei Bünde (Chur 1973); Website: Graubünden – Free State of the Three Leagues. A chronology 1524-2024 (https://500.gr.ch)

The border stones of the Zehngerichtebund (above) and the Obere/Graue Bund. Collection: Rätisches Museum Chur

The Anabaptists of Zurich, Zollikon, the Netherlands and humanists from Basel

While many Protestant citizens from the (Habsburg) Low Countries and later the  Republic of the Seven United Provinces were students at the academy (founded in 1559) of John Calvin (1509-1564) in Geneva, other Protestant citizens fled the Netherlands precisely for Calvin and his teachings.

Martin Luther (1483-1546) initiated the Reformation in 1517. Many predecessors had already tried in vain to reform the church, often resulting in being burned at the stake. Luther succeeded partly due to the printing press and support from powerful German princes. The Reformation reached the Swiss Confederation (Eidgenossenschaft) as early as the 1520s.

Zurich, Grossmünster, Huldrych Zwingli

Huldrych Zwingli (1484-1531) was the leading reformer in Zurich, and by 1524, the city was already Reformed. However, Zwingli differed from Luther in terms of specific religious points.

Reproductions of coloured drawings from various 16th-century manuscripts: scenes from Switzerland of a clandestine cult in the forest and the end of an assembly (1575), as well as the expulsion of three Anabaptists from Bern (1585). Collection: Zurich Central Library

On one subject, however, they agreed: the Anabaptists were a threat to the new faith and social order and had to be ruthlessly persecuted: ‘Eine verdorbene Art von Menschen, die Pest der Wiedertäufer und das Unkraut der Wiedertäufer’ (Huldrych Zwingli, Schriften IV, Theologischer Verlag Zürich 1995). Das (katholisch geprägte) Deutsche Reichsgesetz vom 23. April 1529 war auch deutlich:

Anabaptists who did not renounce their faith will be killed by stake, sword or other means without trial. In Zurich, drowning in the Limmat was one such method.

Zollikon, the house of one of the first meetings of the anabaptists

Anabaptists 

This movement emerged from the Reformation around 1525-1527 in Zurich and its nearby suburb of Zollikon.  Felix Manz (1498-1527) and Konrad Grebel (1498-1526) were its most prominent leaders. 

They rejected infant baptism, conscription, and the church as state institutions. Only adults could be baptised; the church was not an organ of the state but a private organisation of individuals, and military conscription was rejected.

Luther, Calvin, Zwingli, his successor Heinrich Bullinger(1504-1575), and other reformers regarded this movement as a clear and present danger.  They persecuted the Anabaptists with a ‘Protestant Inquisition’, including executions. A memorial table in Zurich on the banks of the Limmat still recalls the execution of leaders and other Anabaptists.

Zurich, Grossmünster

However, the movement was very successful and quickly spread to Catholic and Protestant areas, including the Netherlands, which was still predominantly Catholic at the time. However, Anabaptists were also persecuted in Catholic countries. There, too, they were seen as a threat, and they were Protestants, i.e. heretics.

Persecution in the Netherlands was exceptionally ruthless compared to other countries. In 1660, T.J. van Bracht published ‘Miroir des martyrs’ in French. Collection: Association Française d’Histoire Anabaptiste Mennonite

Only a few Catholics and Protestants, including the Catholic Erasmus of Rotterdam and the Protestant theologian Sebastian Castellio in Basel and local rulers, including the Duke of Württemberg and the Counts of Hesse and Oldenburg, pleaded for religious tolerance, in vain. Persecution was relentless in Catholic and Protestant areas.

Zurich, the house of Konrad Grebel

This movement was recognised only after the French creation of the Batavian Republic (1795) and the Helvetic Republic (1798) in the 19th century. The Constitution of the Helvetic Republic (1798-1803) provided for Anabaptists’ freedom of religion. The first Anabaptist church was consecrated in Basel in 1847, and the first World Anabaptist Congress was held in 1925. Reconciliation by the Swiss Evangelical Reformed Church gained momentum later in the 20th century.

Finally, on 26 June 2004 in Zurich, there was the formal rapprochement and apology by the Evangelical Church under the slogan’ Die Reformation und die Täufer. Gegeneinander – nebeneinander-miteinander’, including the memorial stone on the Limmat.

The execution of Felix Manz and other Anabaptists,  January 5th, 1527. Illustration:  Heinrich Thomann (1544-1619), Abschrift (1605) sur Heinrich Bullingers Reformationsgeschichte (Source: Zentralbibliothek Zürich, Ms. B 316, Fol. 284v)

However, many Anabaptists had fled to other continents until the 19th century. The descendants of these refugees include the Amish, Quakers, Swiss Brethren, Mennonites, Anabaptists, and various branches of Anabaptism. Mennonites take their name from Menno Simons (1496-1561), a Dutch Anabaptist. Swiss Brethren is an English name for Swiss Anabaptists.

The persecution of Anabaptists by Protestants is an almost forgotten chapter in the history of the Reformation. Not only the Catholic Church but also the Protestant Church was ruthless towards dissident voices.

The dogmatic disputes between Luther, Zwingli, Calvin, and their successors also indicate the absence of tolerance within the Protestant church. The ‘Protestant Inquisition’ towards Anabaptists is also evident in writings by Luther, Calvin, Zwingli, and Bullinger.

The humanist Erasmus (1469-1536), Sebastian Castellio, his alter ego Martin Bellius alias Basilius Montfort (1515-1563), David Joris alias Jan von Brugge/Johann von Bruck (1505-1556), and others published what they could in Basel.

The Basler scholar Bonifaz Amerbach and his Erasmus-Stiftung, founded in 1536, supported Castellio financially. A recently published issue of the Internationale Castellio Gesellschaft uniquely highlights this humanist contribution from Basel. 

Sebastian Castellio, De haereticis an sint persequendi, Basel, 1554. Collection Universitätsbibliothek Basel, VD16 C 2130

After a monk’s work (to use a Catholic religious term) of ten years, an international editorial team has published Castellio’s groundbreaking publication De haereticis an sint persequendi in the original Latin (Johannes Oporins publishers, Basel, 1554), German (Von Ketzeren, Strasbourg, 1555), French (Traicté des heretiques, Lyon 1557) languages and the edition by Joachim Clutensius (Strasbourg, 1610). 

Part I presents the Latin, German, and French texts in parallel, extensively referencing relevant texts by church fathers (including Augustine, Hieronymus, and Chrysostomus) and contemporary authors (including Erasmus, Calvin, and Luther).

Part II provides a comprehensive historical context and examines the religious discussions of this period. Moreover, a thorough account of the German and French translations, as well as the 1610 publication, is not missing.

Barbara Mahlmann-Bauer, Kilian Schindler (Ed.) in cooperation with Sonja Klimek and Daniela Kohler, Sebastian Castellio De haereticis an sint persequendi (Schwabe Verlag, Basel, 2024)

Conclusion

This two-volume edition, spanning over 1,300 pages, is a bold venture by the publisher and a testament to the successful content and design by editors and authors in this digital world. Above all, the content has lost none of its relevance, or as Stefan Zweig (1881-1942) put it in 1936:

 ‘Als Manifest der Toleranz und mit der Toleranzargumentation von Sebastian Castellio (1515–1563) wurde eine neue Stufe im neuzeitlichen Diskurs der Toleranz erreicht’ (Castellio gegen Calvin, 1936).

It is no coincidence that Zweig had published the book Triumph und Tragik des Erasmus von Rotterdam (1934) two years before and after 16 years of Communist and one year of National Socialist terror and dictatorship.

Or in the words of Winston Churchill (1874-1965):

‘Fascism was the shadow or ugly child of Communism’. (The Second World War, The Gathering Storm, London 1947). A topical ‘warning from history’, including a new religious ‘ism’.

Source: Barbara Mahlmann-Bauer, Kilian Schindler (Eds.), in cooperation with Sonja Klimek and Daniela Kohler, Sebastian Castellio De haereticis an sint persequendi (Schwabe Verlag, Basel, 2024); M. Baumann (Ed.), Gemeinsames Erbe. Reformierte und Täufer im Dialog, Zurich 2007)

Impressions of Zollikon

A Small History of the Litte and Great St Bernard Passes, their Hospices and Bernadiner Dogs

Napoleon’s (1769-1821) famous march over the Great St Bernard (2469 metres) in 1800 went in a different direction from that of Emperor Claudius (10 BC-54 AD) in 43 AD.

Claudius marched south to north toward Britannia, and Napoleon marched north to south towards Habsburg Italy and its allies.

In both cases, Martigny (Forum Claudii Vallensium, in Roman times, or Octodurus in the Celtic version) and Aosta (Augusta Praetoria, founded in 25 BC) were important places in this region.

Edouard Castres (1838-1902), 1800, Napoleon crossed the St. Bernard Pass on his way to Italy.  Musée militaire de Morges. Foto: TES

Napoleon on the Great St Bernard

Claudius made his way to Britannia from Martigny, making the road across the Great St Bernard (Summus Poeninus or Alpis Poenina) passable. Napoleon, his generals and his army bivouacked at Martigny and completed the march to Aosta.

Little St. Bernard (Graius mons or Alpis Graia, 2,188 m), the smaller brother of Great St. Bernard, was also known to the Romans and held great strategic and economic importance.

Summus Poeninus derives from the Celtic god Poeninus (Penninus). Graia (probably derived from Graecae, based on a Greek legend) was the Roman name for Little St Bernard.

However, the Romans did not name the highest peaks of the Alpine chain—Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn, or Mont Blanc!

The Alps Graias and Poeninas around 150 BC. Picture: Marco Zanoli,Wikipedia

The Great St Bernard Pass connects present-day Valais with the Aosta Valley in Italy. The road over the Little Saint Bernard Pass connects the Aosta Valley with the Tarentaise (and Isère Valley), Beaufortain, and Haut-Faucigny (and Chamonix Valley) in France.

The Roman interpretation of this ‘twin gateway’ to the Graias and Poeninas Alps (germinae Alpium fores, Graias atque Poeninas) is also reflected in the two administrative units in Roman times: the Alpes Graiae and the Vallis Poenina (from which the canton of Valais (Valais) takes its name). In Roman times, other passes were already in use in this region. These will not be discussed.

The various administrative changes during the Roman period are also not discussed. By the end of the Roman period (5th century), this region was known as the Provincia Alpium Graiarum et Poeninarum. The Aosta Valley was assigned to Italian provinces.

During the Roman conquests, Celtic tribes lived in the area. The Salassians lived in the Aosta Valley (conquered in 25 BC). The Ceutrons inhabited the Alpes Graiae. The four tribes, Nantuates, Veragren, Sedunes, and Uberes, inhabited the Vallis Poenina. The Romans conquered these areas between 15 and 10 BC.

The Celtic population was Romanised within a few generations, and apart from (civil) wars, the Pax Romana brought stability and prosperity to the region for centuries. Today, the cities of Martigny and Aosta are the main witnesses.

The Great St. Bernard Lake

The Romans were (also) highly skilled road builders and made the passes over the Little and Great St Bernard Pass passable for trade, armies and passenger traffic.

Roman roads and numerous archaeological finds, including the remains of temples, public buildings, inns, and numerous inscriptions and stones, still mark these routes.

The route from Aosta to Tarentaise across the Little St. Bernard was completed around 20 AD, and the road from Aosta to Martigny was completed in 43 AD.

The old Roman roads (also known from the Peutinger map) still define the main traffic routes. From the Great St Bernard towards Lake Geneva (lac Lémanus (Roman), lac Léman (French)), the route ran via Bourg-Saint-Pierre, Notre-Dame de Lorette, Allèves, Liddes, Orsières, Martigny (Octodurus), Massongex (Tarnaiae), Villeneuve (Pennelocus), Vevey (Viviscus), Lyon (Noviodunum) and Geneva (Genava).

The connection to the east led along the Rhone (Rhodanus) to the Grimsel Pass, Furka Pass and Simplon Pass. To the west (Tarentaise), from Martigny, the passes of Balme and Forclaz were also the main access routes.

 The Little St. Bernard Pass 1940-1945

The border nowadays

The route from Aosta led into the Tarentaise via the Little St Bernard Pass to Bourg-Saint-Maurice (Bergintrum), Aime (Axima), Moûtiers (Darantasia), towards Albertville.

Aime

In Roman times, Aosta, Martigny, Aime and Moûtiers were the most important towns. Aosta and Martigny are important Roman archaeological sites. Bourg-Saint-Maurice, Aime and Moûtiers have to make do with a few inscriptions and archaeological finds.

After the Roman era, it took centuries for the passes, roads, and buildings to be maintained again. Monks mainly built, maintained, and managed guesthouses (hospices) for travellers or generals (Napoleon) who built or improved roads.

The first hospice on the Great St Bernard dates from the 11th century and was founded by St Bernard of Aosta (c.1020-c.1080). He was also the initiator of the hospice on Little St Bernard.

The hospice on the Little St Bernard

For centuries, these two centres, located at an altitude of over 2,000 metres, have been centres of scientific research, religion, refuge, and salvation for travellers. The Great St Bernard is also the highest point on the Via Francigena pilgrimage route.

The Museum

However, the Saint Bernard dogs are the most famous and world-renowned inhabitants of the Great St. Bernard Pass. These rescuers and friends of humans can only be seen in the complex on the pass in the summer these days. The museum at the pass tells their story.

Although they are no longer used for rescuing people, they still serve a social and therapeutic function. The Barry Foundation in Martigny runs a breeding programme and presents these dogs and their history to the public.

(Source: A. Puéjean, Les Alpes Graies et Poenines à l’époque romaine, Tarentaise, Beaufortain, Haut-Faucigny et Valais, Nîmes, 2015; J.-P. Voutaz, P. Rouyer, Découvrir le Grand-Saint-Bernard, Les Editions du le Grand-Saint-Bernard, 2013)

The Monastery Road of Lake Constance

Maximilian I (1469-1519), Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, called the Rhine from Chur to Utrecht the ‘Pfaffengasse’. The Rhine offers this sight from Chur to Constance, Basel, Strasbourg, Worms, Speyer, Mainz, Bonn, Cologne, Xanten, Nimwegen and Utrecht. 

Utrecht, cathedrale

The region on the shores of Lake Constance (the Bodensee) can then be referred to as the Monastery Road. This region had more than 300 monasteries until the Reformation in the 16th century. It shows the rich religious, cultural, and historical past of this part of the present-day countries of Austria, Switzerland, and Germany.

Mehrere Jakobswege und Zugangswege führen durch die Schweiz.

(Source: www.jakobsweg-dachverband.ch)

Irish and English monks founded the first monasteries in the sixth and seventh centuries. Frankish rulers founded numerous monasteries in the eighth century, first by the Merovingians and then by the Carolingians. The reigns of Charlemagne (748-814) and his son Louis the Pious (778-840) are of particular relevance in this respect. The kings and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire, along with their appointed abbots and bishops, continued this process from 962 until the Reformation.

Until the 11th century, the Benedictine Order was the only monastic community. The number of monasteries sharply increased with the rise of new monastic orders. Franciscans, Dominicans, Cistercians, Augustinians, Capuchins, Carthusians, and others (for men and women) were founded.

A chapel near Höchst, Vorarlberg

The most important monasteries adapted their churches and living and working complexes to changing artistic styles and cultural insights. In contrast, others retained their original style to a greater or lesser extent. The region is, therefore, the setting for the Carolingian, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo styles.   

The Reformation (16th century), the Napoleonic era, and, in Switzerland, the decisions of cantons (19th century) also left their mark. Many monasteries were abolished and demolished, while others were repurposed for other purposes. Some monasteries were used as medical centres; others were given a cultural or recreational function. In these cases, the buildings were preserved, and the monastery church often retained its original religious role. Monks or nuns still inhabit some monasteries.

Bregenz

A trip around Lake Constance can start in Bregenz (Vorarlberg, Austria). This town is known for its annual festival, as well as for the Wettingen-Mehrerau Monastery (1095), the Martinskirche (1361), and the Gallus Kapelle (1079), all located at the top of the hill. The promenade along the lake runs from the monastery to the city centre. A little further on is the monastery of Thalbach (1436), which serves as a spiritual centre today.

Wettingen-Mehrerau Abbey

The Oberstadt

St. Martin Church

Lindau

Lindau (Bavaria, Germany) is a peninsula. The Romans already inhabited it. They built the city walls and fort on the site of the Roman bathhouse. The Kanonissen monastery was founded in 822 and dissolved in 1803. The Franciscan monastery was founded in 1224 and disbanded in 1803. The Bavarian lion and the famous lighthouse keep a watchful eye after the nuns and monks have left the city.

The Kanonissen monastery

The Franciscan monastery

The Bavarian lion and the lighthouse

De Mang Tower

Salem

Salem Abbey (1136) was one of the wealthiest monasteries in the region until its dissolution in 1805. Anyone walking through the lavish French gardens and baroque complex has a different idea of monastic life. The Gothic cathedral and the baroque castle fit well into this picture of contrasts. The contrast with the monastery of Werd (canton of Thurgau) on the other side of the Untersee (the western part of Lake Constance) could not be more significant.

Salem Abbey. Photo: Carsten Steger

Birnau

The former monastery of Birnau (1227), located near Überlingen, was renowned for its pilgrimage to Mary until the nineteenth century. After the monastery was dissolved in 1803, the eighteenth-century rococo church remains the main attraction today. In 1919, the Wettingen-Mehrerau monastery acquired the church, and in 1971, the Pope elevated it to the status of a Basilica Minor.

Priory Birnau. Photo: Kloster Mehrerau

Siessen

The monastery of Siessen (1260) survived the Reformation and destruction in the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648). However, the monastery was dissolved in 1803, only to restart in 1860. With a hiatus from 1935 to 1945, the convent continues to function with approximately 70 nuns.

Siessen Abbey. Foto: Kloster Siessen

Hegne

The nunnery of Hegne occupies a special place. Founded only in 1856, its community numbers as many as 2,800 nuns worldwide. 

Constance

The Bishopric of Constance existed from 585 until its dissolution in 1821. The once-mighty diocese even stretched as far as Kleinbasel until 1803. The Council of Constance (1414-1418) was its most famous moment; the burning of Jan Hus in 1415 was the anti-climax. 

Constance switched to the Protestant faith in 1527. The bishop fled to Meerburg ( the bishop of Basel fled to Porrentruy (Pruntrut in German, today’s canton of Jura) that year.

There was no shortage of monasteries in this episcopal city; only all but one had been closed. The most important are the Capuchin Monastery, founded in 1603 and disbanded in 1816, the Dominican Monastery on the so-called Dominika Island (Dominikanerinsel), founded in 1236, dissolved in 1785; the Franciscan Monastery, founded in 1240, disbanded in 1808, and the Benedictine Monastery Petershausen, founded in 983, dissolved in 1802. However, the cathedral (Münster) still stands proudly without a bishop.

The Franciscan Monastery (a theatre nowadays)

The Dominican Monastery (a hotel nowadays)

The cathedral (Münster) of Constance

The Port of Constance, Imperia, statue (1993) commemorating the Council of Constance

Zoffingen 

The convent has existed since 1257. It was initially a Beguine community, later a convent for nuns of the Augustinians, and, from 1318, a convent for Dominican nuns. The monastery still exists, albeit with a small number of nuns.

Kreuzlingen 

Kreuzlingen Abbey (present-day canton of Thurgau, Switzerland) was a powerful princely abbey in the Holy Roman Empire. After being destroyed in the Thirty Years’ War, the monastery was rebuilt but closed in 1803.

Johann Sadeler, around 1633 (Staatsarchiv Thurgau, Frauenfeld).

Photo: Roland Zumbuel/Wikipedia. 

Münsterlingen

The Benedictine Abbey of Münsterlingen was founded in 986. When Münsterlingen became Protestant in 1524, the abbey remained. The monastery church was even shared, Swiss-style, by Catholics and Protestants. Thurgau was an occupied territory (Untertanengebiet) of the Eidgenossenschaft from 1460-1798. Protestant and Catholic cantons or Orte governed this area. The monastery was closed in 1848.

Reichenau 

The island of Reichenau is known as a Klosterinsel, or monastery island. Since 2000, it has even been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The buildings of three monasteries are still standing: St. Markus and Maria in Reichenau-Mittelzell, St. Peter and Paul in Reichenau-Niederzell, and St. George in Reichenau-Oberzell.

Rorschach

A remarkable story concerns the Mariaberg monastery complex in Rorschach (canton of St Gallen). The monastery complex was completed in 1489, but then destroyed by citizens from Appenzell and the city of St Gallen before being consecrated and used as a monastery.

A generation before Martin Luther’s 1517 statements, the Church had already been exposed to considerable criticism. However, an army of the Swiss Confederation (St Gallen and Appenzell were not (yet) members) restored order in 1490, and the monastery was subsequently rebuilt, but not as a monastery but as the residence of the abbot of St Gallen. 

The result was a Gothic complex partly destroyed by iconoclasm in 1529. Successive abbots of St Gallen rebuilt the complex in a late Baroque style in 1777. 

When the St Gallen monastery was closed in 1803, the Mariaberg also lost its function. Since then, the canton has owned and used it as an education centre.

Conclusion 

The region also has many chapels and churches. A bit further inland and upstream and downstream of the Rhine are many other monasteries, for example, in Disentis, Chur, Pfäfers, St. Gallen, Paradies, Stein am Rhein, Werd, Ittingen, Schaffhausen or Rheinau, to name but a few. The episcopal city of Basel had as many as ten monasteries in 1527. 

These monasteries and their inhabitants preserved the heritage of antiquity; quite apart from the magnificent Romanesque and Gothic architecture, Gregorian chant, illuminated manuscripts, Baroque and Rococo palaces and other art, the Boden region is a monument for the monk.

(Source: D. Damwerth, Horizont Bodensee, Wenen, 2019;  www.bodensee.eu)

Impressions of Bregenz

Lindau, view from Bregenz

The Bodensee near Bregenz and the Festspielplatz

Oberstadt and the medieval city wall

Impressions of Lindau

The former city hall (Rathaus)

Municipal museum (under renovation)

Villa and home of the exile of the Austrian Archduke and Duke of Tuscany Ferdinand IV  (1835-1908)

The Parc  of Lindau

Impressions of Constance 

House of birth of Count (Graf) Ferdinand von Zeppelin (1838-1917)

Lindau, Zeppelin above the Casino, 4 June 2023

The bridge over the Rhine, the Bodensee becomes the Untersee