Vals and its Walser, natural phenomena, the Reformation and mineral springs

22 September 2024

Avalanches, floods, and rockslides have been omnipresent in Vals in the Valser Valley (Valsertal, Canton Graubünden) for centuries. A Chronicle (die Lawinechronik) has been keeping accurate records of it since 1598.

The floods of 1868 were so severe that the entire village considered emigrating to America. On 20 January 1951, a snow avalanche killed 19 residents. For residents, such events are a disaster.

However, in the Swiss National Park in the Engadine (canton Graubünden), such events are natural phenomena, not called disasters. After all, no people live in this park, and neither animals nor plants discuss them.

Even in prehistoric times, nature made its presence felt. The Flimser Felzsturz, for example, is one such event from 10,000 years ago. The Rheinschlucht between Ilanz and Reichenau is the result, a work of art by nature. However, no people lived in this area at the time, so it was not a disaster.

Vals did not exist back then. However, the Valserberg was a connecting road from Ilanz via the Bernardino Pass to Tessin. The first Romansh-speaking settlement did not arise until the 11th century. Around 1300, the Walser settled in the village, and soon they became the majority. Romansh gave way to the Walser (German-speaking) language, as in neighbouring Obersaxen.

St. Peter and Paul church

The Reformation

The Reformation also led to heated debates and some outbreaks of violence in Vals. The Walser inhabitants wanted to remain predominantly Catholic. According to the Ilanzer Articles of 1524 and 1526, this was possible: the inhabitants of each municipality made the choice themselves, rather than the government, in this case, the Graue Bund or the Freistaat der drei Bünde. Vals, like most Walser villages, remained Catholic.

The village mainly lived on agriculture and cattle breeding until the end of the 19th century. Cattle and agricultural products were traded all seasons over the Valserberg and the St. Bernardino Pass to the Hinterrhein, Bellinzona, and Lugano.

As in many places in Graubünden and other parts of Switzerland, the exploitation of mineral springs and spas, along with the rapid growth of tourism, dramatically changed life. The St. Peter’s spring (St. Peter’s spring) has made the village world-famous, and companies from other continents are now prominently present.

The Valser Wasserwelt

The ‘Kurhaus Therme’ was inaugurated in 1893. The completely renovated Therme Vals opened its doors on 14 December 1996. The opening of the hydropower plant Zervreila in 1958, as well as ski facilities in 1975 and 1996, also provided a significant economic boost. Vals is one of the highest ski resorts in the canton.

Vals, on the right, the ‘Therme Vals’

One thing has stayed the same: the village is not connected to the railway network. The postal car (Postauto) or one’s transport leads through a beautiful landscape where time has stood still, and avalanches, floods, and rockslides are still natural phenomena.

(Source and further information: Gemeinde Vals; Museum Gandahus)

Impressions of Vals and surroundings