Saint John Nepomuk and tramway 10 of Basel

The world’s most international and inter-cantonal tramway is number 10, which runs from Dornach (canton of Solothurn) via Arlesheim, Münchenstein (canton of Basel-Landschaft ), Basel (canton of Basel-Stadt), Binningen, Bottmingen, Oberwil and Therwil, Ettingen, Witterswil, Bättwil (kanton Basel-Landschaft), Flüh (canton of Solothurn), the village of Leymen in Alsace (France) to Rodersdorf (canton of Solothurn).

The course of this tramway, which is almost 27 kilometres long, says something about the capricious borders of the cantons and these countries. This tramline also connects a historical figure, even a saint. John Nepomuk (1350-1393) was a priest and the confessor of Sophia of Bavaria (1376-1425), wife of King Wenceslaus of Luxembourg (1361-1419), a Roman-German king in the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation.

Bättwil (Canton Solothurn)

He resided in Prague, the capital of Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic).Prague’s grandeur and the statue of Nepomuk on the Charles Bridge are related to this period.

Wenceslaus had Nepomuk executed by drowning in the Vltava (Moldau) River because the priest did not want to violate his wife’s confessional secret (with a political conflict between the bishop and the king in the background). Nepomuk was canonised in 1729. He is the patron saint of the secrecy of confession and bridges.

For this reason, his statue is on the bridge over the Birs in Dornach, although the saint did not prevent the bridge from being destroyed by the high waters of the Bir in 1813.

The Nepomuk Chapel

Near Rodersdorf, in the Alsace village of Wolfschwiller, stands a little chapel dedicated to this saint (Jean Népomucène in French). The old chapel was destroyed during the French Revolution in 1789 and was renovated again in 1893. Hikers of the Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC) occasionally perform the Dona Nobis Pacem at or in the chapel for his and later their salvation.

Albert Hofmann (1906-2008) provided an entirely different spiritual experience. He lived on the Rittimatti in the Swiss municipality of Burg in the Leimental. He discovered LSD in 1943. He became very old, which cannot be said of all users of LSD in the Flower Power period of the sixties.

Burg Castle in Burg

The Rittimattenweg is part of a hiking trail from Rodersdorf via the French villages of Biederthal and Lutter back to Rodersdorf. This area is the source of the little river Birsig, which flows through Basel and enters the Rhine underground at the Hotel Les Trois Rois. The first operator of the Birsigthalbahn company was named after this river in 1887, as was the Birsig viaduct in Basel.

Wolschwiller

The area has fertile clay soil, offering good opportunities for agriculture. Several castles still bear witness to its economic importance from the Middle Ages onwards.

The inhabitants of this French-Swiss border area can still communicate in the local Allemanian (Oberrheinallemanisch) dialect, although their knowledge of it is rapidly declining.

The Swiss Alpine Club

The Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC/Club Alpin Suisse, CAS) regularly organises hiking trips in this region (and elsewhere).

The SAC organises ski tours, mountaineering, and other high mountain sports and (hiking) activities in different regions.

Proofreader: Adrian Dubock

The Relevance of the Council of Nicaea

It has received little attention, but this event is still relevant today: the first Council of the Christian Church in 325, held in Nicaea (today Iznik, Turkey). For centuries, the emperors of the Roman Empire ruled over large parts of Europe, Asia and Africa, including present-day Turkey and Switzerland.

In the early centuries, Christianity spread mainly in the Middle East, Turkey and the surrounding regions. From the outset, Christianity was characterised by great theological division. Dozens of Christian schisms arose.

Nicea (Nikaia), 3rd. century AD. Image: Antikensammlung Basel and Sammlung Ludwig

The Council of Nicaea sought to restore the unity of the church, or at least to establish the official dogma of the church. It was, as it were, the first ecumenical initiative!

As is well known, the Christian church subsequently split many more times (including the Great Schism of 1084 and the Reformation from 1517 onwards). Still, it is worth considering this first initiative in 325, a mediation avant la lettre.

Mégalo Metéoron Monastery in Greece, an Icon representing the Council of Nicaea (325 A.D.), condemned Arius at the bottom. Image: Wikipedia

It is no coincidence that this Council is commemorated in Switzerland. During the Reformation, the “Disputatio”, the “Simultaneum”, compromise (“agree to disagree”), statesmanship, and, above all, the voice of the people (Appenzell 1597, for example) were prerequisites for preventing ruthless religious wars, apart from a few minor armed conflicts. Even, or perhaps especially, in the world’s former Calvinist and current international legal capital, “Nicaea” is being commemorated!

At the Council of Nicaea, the bishops discussed Christian dogma. Some of the decisions made at that time are still relevant to the Christian church today! The content is not relevant from a historical perspective.

Gravestones from Phrygia (present-day Anatolia), 3rd century AD. Collection: Antikensammlung Basel und Sammlung Ludwig

Still, it shows how decisions can have an impact, even if they do not have positive and unforeseen consequences in the longer term. What applies to the Council of Nicaea also applies to current institutional treaties, although fortunately, bishops and religion have been replaced by chosen politicians and non-religious laws.

Via Engadina and Via imperiale from Casaccia nach Vinadi

The Via Engiadina is a hiking tour from Casaccia (Bergell) in Upper Engadin (Oberengadin), on the Italian border, to Vinadi in Lower Engadin (Unterengadin), on the Austrian border.

The Bergell (Val Bregaglia) borders the Veltlin (Valtellina), which was a subject area for more than 250 years (1512-1798), a so-called Untertanengebiet of the Free State of the Three Leagues (Freistaat der Drei Bünde), the forerunner of the canton of Graubünden.

The 140-kilometre route is easy to walk (or cycle) in stages because of the excellent accommodation facilities. The altitude range is 2,500 to 1,086 metres in Vinadi. The hiker is accompanied by art, tourism, history, nature, world-famous places, beautiful villages with Engadine architecture, and famous mountain passes.

Schellen-Ursli (Uorsli) Museum Guarda

Replica of the Schellen-Ursli Haus in Rust (Europapark, (Baden-Württemberg) 

Maloja, Sils Maria (and lake) and St. Moritz (and lake) are the first larger villages in the beautiful mountain landscape. Giovanni Segantini (1858-1899) and the museum dedicated to him in St. Moritz give this landscape an artistic dimension.

Susch

The Inn (En in Romansh) guides Vinadi, passing through Sils and its Waldhaus and museum (Nietsche-Haus).

The tour also passes through Celerina, Beaver, Zuoz (and its beautiful houses (Chesa Planta) and square (Plazzet), Brail (the border between Upper Engadin, Putèr Romansh, and Lower Engadin, Vallader Romansh, Zernez (and the highest peak of Engadin the Piz Linard of 3 410 metres, Wildenberg Castle and the centre of the National Park of Switzerland), Susch, Lavin, Guarda, Ardez, Ftan, Scuol (Bogn Engiadina and Museum of Lower Engadin), Vulpera Tarasp (Castle of Tarasp and Trinkhalle, Foundation Nair in Vulpera), overlooking the Engadine Dolomites, Sent, Vnà, Val Sinestra, Ramosch, Tschlin, Martina and finally Vinadi.

Vinadi is the old border town of the Free State of the Three Leagues; the castle Altfinstermünz on the Austrian side reminds us of this border.

The Via Imperiale

The Via Imperiale in Guarda

  

The ruines of Chanoua, the Via Imperiale near Ardez

Image: Stiftung Chanoua, Grafik Atelier George Jenny Grusch/ Gravure SA Erlach

The Via Imperiale is the old Roman road connecting Como and Tyrol through the Lower Engadine, partly following the Via Engiadina. Near Ardez, in the former, now abandoned hamlet of Chanoua, there is an inn that was in use until 1867. The Lavin-Scuol road in the valley was opened in that year, and the inn was abandoned. For centuries, it served as a place to replace horses and carriages, a stable for livestock, a resting place for travellers and traders, and a storage facility for goods. The impressive ruins are a silent witness to the large complex, mentioned in a 9th-century document.

(Quelle: A. Planta, T. Planta, Alte Talwege im Unterengadin (Chur, 2022)

Impressions of Guarda

 

 

The Fondation Beyeler Presents 300 Works by Yayoi Kusama

Fondation Beyeler presents the first exhibition in Switzerland dedicated to the work of Yayoi Kusama (*1929), one of the most groundbreaking artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. The exhibition, developed in close collaboration with the artist and her studio, brings together over 300 works from Japan, Singapore, the Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Sweden, France and Switzerland.

Image from the exhibition ‘Yayoi Kusama’. © Yayoi Kusama. Photo: TES

Spanning over seven decades, the exhibition traces Kusama’s extraordinary journey from her earliest creative efforts in postwar Japan to her internationally celebrated status today.

Taihaku leaves, Loquat leaves.

Untitled (Monkey sketches). First Drawings and Watercolours, 1948. Collection: © Yayoi Kusama 

Beginning with rarely seen paintings and watercolours made in the early 1950s in her hometown of Matsumoto, the exhibition follows her bold transition to New York in the late 1950s, where she played a formative role in the avant-garde scenes of the 1960s and 1970s.

Returning to Japan in the 1970s, Kusama continued to reinvent her artistic language in deeply personal and politically resonant ways. Today, she is arguably the most well-known living female artist and remains a force of remarkable innovation and relevance, creating new work with undiminished intensity.

Infinity Mirrored Room – The Hope of the Polka Dots Buried in Infinity Will Eternally Cover the Universe, 2025. © Yayoi Kusama. Foto: TES

Her practice spans a rich array of media, including painting, drawing, sculpture, installation, performance, collage, fashion, literature, and film, making her one of the most versatile and influential artists of our time.

Mirrored Room. © Yayoi Kusama. Photo: TES

The exhibition showcases a diverse range of iconic pieces, including over 130 works that have never been exhibited in Europe, as well as new works created specifically for this occasion.

(Source and further information: Fondation Beyeler)

The Four Centuries-Old Reading Societies of Switzerland

In many major European cities, from the 18th century to the early 19th century, reading societies were prevalent. Remarkably, Switzerland remains the only country to host this type of organisation in its four principal cities: Basel, Geneva, Lausanne, and Zurich.

For over two centuries, members have been able to read or borrow a large number of national and foreign newspapers and magazines, literary works, scientific publications, maps, dictionaries, and various other writings, all gathered in spacious reading rooms.

Salon in la Société de lecture de Genève

Moreover, these organisations originally also had a social function as meeting centres, with billiard rooms, a bar, and more. Today, this social role is fulfilled by a varied program of literary, musical, and cultural events.

Until the end of the 19th century, membership was reserved exclusively for men. Afterwards, the process of emancipation accelerated, and today, women and men participate equally in the life of the reading societies.

Le Cercle de littérature de Lausanne

Until the First World War (1914-1918), members were mainly from the bourgeoisie, just like the founders. After 1918, and especially after 1945, this distinction largely disappeared.

Smoke-filled rooms (from cigars) are as much a thing of the past as “men-only clubs,” but what still characterises these reading societies after more than two centuries is their quality, continuity, good management, and their ability to innovate and adapt to social changes.

In this respect, they also symbolise Switzerland in a certain way. Below you will find a brief chronological overview (by year of foundation) of the country’s four reading societies (the Allgemeine Lesegesellschaft Basel, the Société de lecture de Genève, the Cercle de littérature de Lausanne, and the Verein Museumsgesellschaft in Zürich).

The Allgemeine Lesegesellschaft Basel

The Allgemeine Lesegesellschaft in Basel

Basel is not only renowned for its prestigious university, founded in 1460 (the first in the country), or its public art collection, established in 1671 and considered one of the world’s foremost museums. It is also the birthplace of Switzerland’s first reading Society, the Allgemeine Lesegesellschaft, founded in 1787 by a group of enlightened notables.

It was the age of the Enlightenment, marked by salons, societies, and the works of Voltaire, Rousseau, and Diderot, as well as the rise of the ‘cultured bourgeoisie’. Although the aristocracy did not play a significant political role in Switzerland, the wealthy upper class was mainly oriented towards French culture (and language).

In Basel, near the French border, it was no different. With its prestigious university and dynamic economic elite, the city had all the ingredients necessary for the founding of a reading society: a cultured public and the resources to bring the initiative to fruition. From its inception, the reading society’s building was located on Münsterplatz.

Reinacherhof 18

Until 1832, the Reinacherhof housed the library and reading rooms. At that time, the reading society was also a ‘Casino-Gesellschaft’ with a social function and a meeting place. However, in 1826, Basel constructed a Stadt-Casino for concerts, and in 1831, a Stadttheater was built. These institutions increasingly assumed the social role of the Casino-Gesellschaft.

In 1830, an opportunity arose to respond to the changing Society. That year, the building at Münsterplatz 8, which remains the current location of the reading society, was up for sale.

The building is not only situated on the banks of the Rhine, but also adjacent to the Münster and its Romanesque Gallus Gate. Until the Reformation (1529), it belonged to the canons. After that, it served as a warehouse for a long time.

The reading society tackled the project with enthusiasm, appointing a building committee, and the first renovation work began as early as 1830. Perhaps the prestigious buildings of the reading societies founded in Geneva (1818) and Lausanne (1819) provided additional motivation. These cities were the capitals of the new cantons of Geneva and Vaud, and (unacknowledged) competition between the cantons served as a catalyst.

The coffeeroom

In any case, it was during this period that the Neo-Gothic decorative style took shape, integrated into a classical architectural design. Two figures in particular left their mark on the renovation: Johan Huber (1767–1832) and Marquard Wocher (1760–1830), best known for the Thun Panorama, but who also left his neo-Gothic mark on Basel.

This building is one of the first neo-Gothic buildings in Switzerland. The inspiration for this neo-Gothic style is also linked to the proximity of the Gothic cathedral. Even the colour matches the cathedral.

The Gothic bay window (1528) in the large reading room

After the festive inauguration of the new building on 26 October 1832, various adaptations, renovations and modifications were still necessary. However, the character remained unchanged. Many authentic details have been carefully preserved, some dating back to the time of the canons.

The small reading room

The main reading room

Initially, the Lesegesellschaft was exclusively reserved for men; it was not until 1901 that women were admitted as full members. Today, the reading society has around 1,300 members, who can not only use the library, café, and reading rooms but also regularly attend lectures, literary readings, and other cultural events.

The owl, symbol of the goddess of wisdom Athena – and therefore also of the reading club – is stamped on the cover of every book.

For the second time, the Lesegesellschaft is also organising an open night with accommodation for children (Kindernacht am Münsterplatz) on 21 November. Because for this nearly 240-year-old organisation, young people are the future.

The library has around 80,000 publications and plenty of seating with a view 

(Source and further information: Allgemeine Lesegesellschaft Basel; Doris Huggel, Haus der Allgemeinen Lesegesellschaft in Basel, Bern, 1996)

La Société de lecture de Genève

The Société de Lecture de Genève

Geneva had been established for centuries as a city of merchants, industrialists (including watchmakers), theologians, lawyers, writers, scientists, and publishers when the Geneva Reading Society was founded in 1818. From 1536 onwards, the city was even the Calvinist capital of Europe, with an academy (the precursor to the university) and at the heart of a vast European intellectual network.

The Enlightenment found particularly fertile ground here, and France, especially Paris, was a source of artistic and cultural inspiration. Although French-speaking, Geneva remained independent: the bishopric (until 1536) and then the sovereign republic (until 1798) were never under French control. Only the Duchy of Savoy posed a threat for centuries, with the Escalade of 1602 as its last assault.

However, Napoleon’s annexation (1798-1813) considerably reduced enthusiasm for France, and in 1815, citizens even voted overwhelmingly to join the new Swiss Confederation.

However, this did not mean that French culture and the ideals of the Enlightenment had lost their importance. On the contrary, even after 1815, close cultural, social and economic ties with France continued.

In addition, many French exiles found refuge in Geneva or its surroundings, but many had already arrived before 1789 (the French Revolution) and after Napoleon (the restoration of the French monarchy). In Geneva, the idea of a reading society was already familiar; in 1818, the time seemed right to make it a reality.

The reading society is housed in an 18th-century  city palace. Today, the library has a collection of 200,000 books. This collection has been assembled over the centuries through purchases and donations since 1818, including unique editions such as the first edition of “Un Souvenir de Solférino” (1862) by member Henry Dunant (1828-1910), l’Histoire universelle by Théodore-Agrippa d’Aubigné (1616), le Discours de la méthode by Descartes (1637), l’Histoire naturelle by  Buffon (1749) and De la démocratie en Amérique by Tocqueville (1835). The collections also include books annotated by John Calvin and Lenin.

Its international reputation was quickly established. Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte (1808-1873), the future Emperor Napoleon III (1852-1870), met there in 1835 with Camillo Benso di Cavour (1810-1861), one of the founders of Italian independence and unification in 1861. Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov (1870-1924), better known as Lenin, became a member in 1904. He was a regular visitor to one of the reading rooms, which was filled with magazines and newspapers in German, English, and French.

The Reading Society organises two literary gatherings per week and, for the past three years, a children’s literature festival called ‘Croque-Livres’ during the first weekend of November.

The jury of the prestigious Europa Nostra Award justified its decision in 2020 as follows:

“This universal library and place of discussion has existed without interruption for 200 years. Throughout this time, the Reading Society has remained faithful to its original objectives of bringing together people interested in literature, science and the arts.

It has become a centre for the most enlightened representatives of different European cultures, and its activities express a spirit of openness and a willingness to innovate, qualities that the Society continues to promote within its walls.

The Société de Lecture’s contribution to the promotion and dissemination of cultural values in their various forms is recognised as an exceptional example of Swiss multilingualism, also relevant at a broader European level”.

(Source and further information: la Société de lecture)

Le Cercle littéraire de Lausanne

 The Cercle littéraire de Lausanne

The Geneva Reading Society had been in existence for less than a year when the Cercle littéraire de Lausanne was founded on 24 January 1819. The new canton of the 1815 Confederation was bursting with energy and new momentum after centuries of Bernese domination. Like Geneva, Lausanne was a cosmopolitan city:

‘Frequented by the elite and inhabited by distinguished families who led a sophisticated social life, the capital of the Département du Léman displayed an intellectual and artistic cosmopolitanism that was exciting for the mind and likely to fuel both conversation and dreams’ (Maurice Denuzière, Helvétie, Paris 2010).

For centuries, the canton had been a European crossroads of cultures, trade and science. Nyon and Avenches were important towns in Roman times. Lausanne became an episcopal city shortly after the departure of the Romans, and the diplomat Frédéric-César de la Harpe (1754-1838) served as the governor of the young Tsar Alexander I (1777-1825) for many years. He maintained close relations with Napoleon during the Helvetic Republic (1798-1803) and played an essential role for Switzerland and the canton at the Congress of Vienna (1814-1815).

French cultural influence in the French-speaking canton was also undeniable. Social and economic ties with France and the Duchy of Savoy (the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia) were close.

 Cercle littéraire de Lausanne, 1955. Archive: Cercle littéraire de Lausanne

For centuries, viticulture shaped the landscape along the shores of Lake Geneva. Trade and maritime traffic flourished between Montreux, Vevey, Nyon, Lausanne and Geneva on the one hand, and the French and Swiss shores (Saint-Gingolph, canton of Valais) of Lake Geneva on the other.

In addition, Madame de Staël’s (1766–1817) salon in Coppet was one of Europe’s most famous meeting places for scientists, writers (including historian Edward Gibbon, 1737–1794), politicians and exiles. Other women also left their mark on literary life in Lausanne, notably the writer Isabelle de Charrière (1740-1805), who lived in Colombier.

Salon in the Cercle littéraire de Lausanne, 1955. Archive: Cercle littéraire de Lausanne

In short, the time had come to create a reading society in Lausanne, too, called Le Cercle littéraire. The aim here was also to provide members with newspapers, magazines, books, and specialist works in the main languages, in reading rooms and a library.

Since 1821, Le Cercle littéraire has been housed in the Saint-François building on Place Saint-François, opposite the church of the same name, a few steps from the cathedral. This building also holds symbolic value for this literary organisation, as it is the birthplace of Benjamin Constant (1767-1830).

Today, the library manages over 70,000 publications, including several unique items dating back to previous centuries, spanning various fields, as well as magazines and newspapers in multiple languages. Today, the building also hosts conferences and various other cultural events.

(Source and further information: Le Cercle littéraire)

Die Museumsgesellschaft Zürich

The Museumsgesellschaft Zürich

Since 1834, the country’s largest city has been home to the Museums Society, also known as a reading society. At the time of its founding, ‘Museumsgesellschaft’ was a common name for a reading society. ‘Museum’ did not primarily refer to an exhibition space, but to a place where scholarly activities took place.

The commercial city was not only on the cusp of an industrial revolution. It was also inspired by Alfred Escher (1819–1882), who founded the Schweizerische Kreditanstalt, which would later become Credit Suisse, as its main financial backer.

Excerpt from the first annual report of the Museum Society from 1934. Collection: Archiv Museumsgesellschaft

In 1830, the canton had recently undergone a democratic revolution, introducing constitutional freedoms and guarantees for citizens that were unique for the time. Additionally, the university was founded in 1833.

Like Basel, Lausanne and Geneva, Zurich had always been a cosmopolitan city and a refuge for political refugees from other European countries, much to the chagrin of its authoritarian neighbours. During the First World War (1914-1918) and the Second World War (1939-1945), the city was also a centre for (political) emigrants and refugees.

The main reading room. Photo: Verein Museumsgesellschaft

In 1834, there was a need for a place to house an extensive collection of domestic and foreign newspapers, magazines, specialist works in various fields and literature. Anyone could become a member, regardless of their religion, profession or political views, including women from 1894 onwards.

Sophie Heim (1845–1916), joined the Museum Society in 1894 and was the first female doctor in Switzerland. Image: Verena E. Müller, Marie Heim-Vögtlin, die erste Schweizer Ärztin (Baden, 2008).

In keeping with the liberal spirit of the cantonal constitution, the reading rooms and library also reflected a wide range of (political) opinions, (social) backgrounds and religions. Various foreign personalities had joined the Society and were regular visitors to the reading rooms and libraries.

Gotffried Keller (1819-1890), a renowned German-speaking author from Zurich, was a notable member and visitor to the reading room and library. Foreign personalities, including (again) Lenin, Kurt Tucholsky (1890-1935), Stefan Zweig (1881-1942), James Joyce (1882-1941), Lev Bronstein alias Trotsky (1879-1940) and the Dadaists were also members.

Collection: Archiv Museumsgesellschaft

In the 1860s, the Museumsgesellschaft commissioned the construction of its own building on Limmatquai, which opened in 1867. The Museumsgesellschaft then expanded in 2000 with the creation of a literature house (Literaturhaus). It broadened its offering to include lectures and other events.

(Source and further information: Museumsgesellschaft and Literaturhaus Zürich)

St. Blasien Abbey, its Dom and the Abbey Trail

St. Blasien Abbey (Baden-Württemberg) in the Naturpark Südschwarzwald and the Albsteig was founded in the 11th century. A document of the Rheinau Abbey near Schaffhausen mentioned around 800 monks in a community at this site in the Alb Valley (Albtal).

The Benedictine abbey was dedicated to Saint Blaise (4th century), an Armenian martyr. The Abbey of Cluny took over the monastery in the 11th century and built the first large stone church on the foundations of the ‘Alte Münster’ (9th or 10th century).

Coat of arms (dated 1563) of the Bläsihof (demolished in 1909) at Untere Rebgasse 27–29 in Basel. In the Middle Ages, this was the seat of the Basler stewart estate of St. Blasien Abbey.

The complex expanded further in the following centuries. Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque innovations, extensions and styles alternated. A fire in 1768 destroyed the church, only to be resurrected around 1783, like a phoenix from the ashes, as an overwhelming domed church modelled on St. Mary’s Church, the Pantheon, in Rome.

Abbot Martin II. Gerbert

The prior abbot (abbot and prince of the Holy Roman Empire) Martin II. Gerbert (1729-1793) was the initiator. He was a man between the Baroque and the Enlightenment, and the new church showcases both styles.

Rome, the churches of Saint-Geneviève, Saint-Sulpice, and Val-de-Grâce, and the architectural style of the Dôme des Invalides in Paris influenced him.

Thus, the small complex in the Black Forest, not far from the Wiese and Alb springs at the Feldberg, grew into one of the largest Doms in Europe. The tall fountain figure of St. Blasien has been watching over the cathedral on the market square since 1716.

But in 1806, the monastery was dissolved, and the proud Dom was demoted to a parish church. To make matters worse, this parish church, one of Europe’s most giant domes, was utterly destroyed by a fire in 1874.

The domed church was rebuilt in 1913. In the 1970s and 1980s, a thorough renovation was undertaken to restore the cathedral, including its narthex, loggias, and Doric columns, as much as possible.

The rotunda and its classical architecture, the decoration featuring late Baroque elements (including paintings in the dome and on the chancel arches), the four large windows, the Ionic and Corinthian columns, and the simplicity of the interior all reflect the spirit of the age of 1783 in this part of Germany.

The monk’s choir and its wooden chairs were the last phase of the 1983 renovation, just in time to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the Dom’s consecration (Domweihe).

The Dom has a diameter of 36 metres and a height of 32 metres. The inner Dom is 18 metres high, while the gilded outer Dom measures 14 metres. The columns supporting the Dom are 18 metres high. The total height of the building is 62 metres. The first wooden structure of the Dom, destroyed in 1874, was replaced by a steel construction in 1913.

As early as 1783, Abbot Martin II Gerbert was criticised by his contemporaries, who considered him to be behind a megalomaniacal project. He countered this by saying:

‘If the powerful of this world build their magnificent castles and palaces, then surely a glorious house is befitting for the majestic Lord and God’ (Wenn schon die Mächtigen der Welt ihre Prunkschlösser und Paläste bauen, sei doch wohl dem majestätischen Herrn und Gott ein glanzvolles Haus angemessen).

The majestic sight of the Dom and monastery complex still exists under the watchful eye of St Blaise. However, after 1806, secular power and the widely scattered lands, other possessions, and political relationships in Baden, Austria, and Switzerland belonged to the past. However, the Abbey Trail (Klosterweg) from St. Blasien to Klingnau reveals the abbey’s past and regional network.

The professional glass carrier (der Glasträger) first appeared in 16th-century sources. He was indispensable in the production chain. Image: Gemeinde St. Blasien. Photo: TES

Glass production

Glass production in the glassworks was a crucial industry of the abbey. The foundations of the St Blasian glassworks, their locations and operating times were:

1480-1515  Bernau am Todtmooserweg

1516-1567  Glashof St. Blasien

1560-1587  Bernau am Rechberg

1579-1684  Blasiwald Habsmoos

1597-1684  Blasiwald Munchenland ob Neuhäuser Bach

1611-1716  Grünwald bei Kappel

1622-1684  Blasiwald Schmalzberg Althütte

1684-1712  Glashütte am oberen Windbergbach

1716-1878  Glashütte Äule

An impression glass production in a production facility. Image: Gemeinde St. Blasien. Photo: TES

(Source and further information: J. Adamek, St. Blasien: Kirche-Kloster-Kolleg, St. Blasien, 1992)

Impressions of the former abbey and the Dom

750 years of Notre-Dame Cathedral in Lausanne

Several master builders oversaw the construction of Lausanne Cathedral until the mid-13th century. Bishop Landry de Durnes initiated the building around 1170.

Collection: Musée Historique Lausanne

Construction began with the Romanesque apse, but the rest of the monument quickly adopted a Gothic architectural style and was completed around 1235, with the painted portal on the south front. On 20 October 1275, the cathedral was consecrated by Pope Gregory X (1210-1276) in the presence of Emperor Rudolf of Habsburg (1218-1291).

The first phase of the cathedral’s construction began in 1173 with the Romanesque apse. Twenty years later, the second master builder corrected the building’s orientation, altered its architectural composition, and, by 1215, had built the church as we know it today. The third master builder continued work on the west side and built the westwork, with a porch and two towers: one of which supports the bell tower, while the other was never completed.

The painted portal is an example of an original design, both in terms of architecture, iconography, and polychromy. It illustrates a complex programme. The general theme is the evocation of the mystery of the Incarnation and the Intercession of the Virgin Mary in the context of the pilgrimage to Our Lady.

The painted portal on the south front was completed between 1225 and 1235. Two parts of the original architectural ensemble, the former cloister and the passageway of the large bay, are no longer preserved today. They gradually fell into disrepair and were destroyed in the 17th century.

Château Saint-Marie, Residence of the bishop from 1430 until the Reformation

After the Reformation

Following the Reformation in 1536, several restorations were undertaken. One of the most important was implemented in the second half of the 19th century by French architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc (1814–1879). The last cycle of restoration began in 1968 with the north choir tower.

 

Image: Lausanne Cathedral

(Source and further information: Cathédrale de Lausanne)

 

Collection: Musée Historique Lausanne

Swiss Bishopics and Cultural and Linguistic Plurality

In the centuries between the (slow) dissolution of the Roman Empire (5th century) and the rise of the great Monarchies (from the 10th-13th centuries), the Church, abbeys and dioceses were the most important social, economic and political institutions with great secular power on the territory of what is called Switzerland today.

The bishopric was a new sovereignty based on a church area (the diocese and land ownership) and secular, political and military power in this area and sometimes far beyond.

The bishop was the highest religious authority, formally subordinate to the archbishop of the archdiocese and the Pope in Rome, and with local secular rulers and princes as direct competitors or allies. The division into dioceses and their archdioceses gives a good impression of Switzerland’s rich cultural heritage.

Abbeys also played an important role, as abbots were appointed by the political rulers of the Holy Roman Empire, Burgundian dukes or French kings.

Basel

The first bishop of Basel had his seat in the Roman city of Augusta Raurica, today’s Augst (canton of Basel-Landschaft). The bishop probably left this city in the fifth century for security reasons (because of the Alemanni raids). The hill in Basel, on which today’s cathedral was built (the consecration of the Münster, the cathedral, took place in 1019), offered more protection.

The diocese of Basel fell under the archdiocese of Besançon from the Middle Ages onwards. The French-speaking culture was prominently present in this area. The diocese of Basel reached far into Alsace and north-western Switzerland. Kleinbasel, however, was under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Constance and the Archbishopric of Mainz until 1803.

The bishop of Basel, also a prince in the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation, relocated his seat to the French-speaking Porrentruy (today’s canton of Jura) due to the Reformation in 1529. Since 1828, Solothurn has been the seat of the Diocese of Basel.

Solothurn

In the small farming village of Arlesheim (today’s canton of Basel-Landschaft), with a few hundred inhabitants, the chaplains built a huge cathedral and palaces in 1670-1680. Catholic Arlesheim was not far from the Protestant city of Basel.

Lausanne

The Roman city of Aventicum, the capital of the Helvetians, today’s Avenches in the canton of Vaud, was the seat of a bishop in the sixth century. The diocese was first located in Vindinossa, present-day Windisch (canton of Aargau). Lausanne (Lousonna) became the episcopal city at the end of the sixth or beginning of the seventh century.

The Diocese of Lausanne was dissolved in 1536 after the Protestant canton of Bern occupied it. The bishop fled to Savoy. Today, Fribourg, Geneva, Neuchâtel, and Laussane form the Diocese of Lausanne, Geneva, and Fribourg, named after the three cathedrals in Lausanne, Fribourg, and Geneva.

Fribourg/Freiburg

The red church in Neuchâtel, Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, was officially elevated to the rank of minor basilica in 2008, following a positive response from the Vatican. Neuchâtel joined Lausanne, Geneva and Fribourg, which already had a minor basilica in the same diocese.

Chur and Konstanz

Until 1801, the diocese of Konstanz (Germany) also extended over areas in central and north-eastern Switzerland, including Kleinbasel. The diocese was part of the Archbishopric of Mainz from 843. The bishop fled to Meerburg in 1527 because of the Reformation. The Bishopric of Konstanz was abolished in 1821.

The Cathedral of Konstanz

The Cathedral of Chur

Bishopric of Chur

Chur (Curia in Latin) is a bishopric dating back to Roman times. Chur’s first bishop, known from sources (451), bore the name Asinio. Chur is one of the oldest episcopal cities north of the Alps. The diocese of Chur was under the Archdiocese of Milan until 843 (Treaty of Verdun).

During this period, there were many cultural influences from Lombardy and the dioceses of Como and Aquileia. From 843, the diocese of Chur fell under the Archdiocese of Mainz. It increased German influence.

The diocese survived the many political upheavals and even the Reformation, although the town of Chur also switched to Protestantism, as did most towns and inhabitants of present-day Graubünden.

Sion (Sitten)

In the canton of Valais, the Roman city of Forum Claudii Vallensium, today’s Martigny, was the first episcopal city. In the sixth century, the bishop settled in Sion/Sitten (Sedunum). The bilingual diocese of Sion (Sitten) was under the jurisdiction of the archdiocese of Tarentaise (France) until 1801. The diocese was in direct contact with Savoy and its French-speaking culture on one side and the German culture of the Oberwallis on the other.

Geneva

The Diocese of Geneva was part of the Archdiocese of Vienne in France. Consequently, Provençal culture and language had a significant influence on Geneva. Isaac is the first bishop mentioned in written sources dating back to around 400. The first foundations of the cathedral date back to the first half of the 4th century. The archaeological site provides a fascinating glimpse into the origins of this diocese and cathedral.

However, Geneva has not been an episcopal city since the Reformation (1536). On the contrary, the city became the capital of Calvinism (a museum dedicated to the Reformation in Geneva recounts this history). Today, the former bishopric is part of the diocese of Lausanne, Geneva and Fribourg.

1801

From 1801, the dioceses of Switzerland (then the Helvetic Republic 1798-1803) fell directly under the authority of the Vatican and were no longer part of an archdiocese outside Switzerland.

St. Gall

This diocese was established in 1847. Its diocese (the cantons of St. Gall and both Appenzeller) originally belonged to the diocese of Constance. The renowned abbey of St. Gall has existed since the 7th century and has consistently played a pivotal role in this region. The diocese of St. Gall was created in 1847 and included the cantons of Appenzell.

Lugano

This diocese has existed since 1971 and comprises the canton of Tessin. After independence from Italy in 1884, Tessin was under the Diocese of Basel until 1971. In 1971, the first bishop was appointed for the diocese of Tessin, which thus effectively became an independent diocese.

Conclusion

Swiss dioceses have directly interacted with various languages and cultures since the early Middle Ages. The six current dioceses (St Gallen, Lugano, Sion, Basel, Chur, Lausanne, Fribourg and Geneva) still reflect the country’s multicultural character.

(Sources: K. Speich, H. Schläpfer, Églises et monastères suisses, Zurich 1979; F. Mazel, L’Évêque et le territoire.) L’invention médiévale de l’espace (Ve-XIIIe siècles, Paris 2008).

The Autumn Market of Basel 1471-2025

Basel’s autumn market (Heerbschtmäss) has been taking place since 1471. In 1721 and 1722 (pest), 1831 (cholera), 1918  (Spanish flu), and 2020 (Covid-19), the market was cancelled. The first market took place on October 27th, 1471.

The Geschäftsherrensocken (business stockings), Sonntagssocken (Sunday’s stockings), der Blaustrumpf (bluestocking), die Inésbadersocken (Inésbader stockings), shawls and other Strickereien at the St. Petersplatz.  Inés Bader Textildesign Basel

Petersplatz, the market for crafts and artisans

More than 500 stands offer their products, food and drinks at seven locations: the Münsterplatz, Petersplatz, Barfüsserplatz, Messeplatz, Rosentalanlage and the Kaserneareal. The market is the largest in Switzerland and one of the largest in Europe.

Barfüsserplatz

History

In 1471, Basel was still part of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation (Heiligen Römischen Reiches der deutschen Nation). In 1501, it joined the Confederation of Swiss cantons, the Eidgenossenschaft. Moreover, Basel was not just any episcopal city; the bishop was also a Prince, Reichsfürst, of the Empire.

In 1471, Emperor Frederick III  (1415-1493) granted the long-awaited permission for the annual market. The city had a good reputation because of the Basel Council (1431-1449) and the support of Pope Pius II (1405-1464), who founded the University of Basel in 1460.

The presence of publishers, printers, scholars, and humanists, as well as good accessibility by water and land, also increased the status.

Münsterplatz

The mayor Hans von Bärenfels (1430-1495) succeeded in 1471. He was one of the last aristocratic mayors. The Bärenfelserstrasse in Kleinbasel is named after him. 

According to the charter, the autumn market must occur before 11 November, St. Martin’s Day. On the last Saturday in October this year, on 25 October, the bells of St. Martin’s Church ring at noon, and the market opens with a mass and closes on 9 November.

Except for a few short interruptions (on the corn market in front of the Town Hall and on St. Peterplatz (1877-1982), the market takes place on the Münster. The Münster has always been the (medieval) location for (military) parades, royal entrances, high-profile visits, tournaments, processions, and other events.

Kasernenareal

There have always been attractions, such as wild animals, elephants, games, and other entertainment. The horse carousel (Rösslìritti), the motor scooter (bumper cars), a roller coaster, a free-fall tower and an ever-higher Ferris wheel were and are among the attractions.

(Source and further Information: www.herbstmesse.ch)

St. Petersplatz

The Swiss Federal Court celebrates its 150th anniversary

The Federal Court (Tribunal fédéral, Bundesgericht, Tribunale federale, Tribunal federal) celebrates its 150th anniversary in 2025. The 1848 Constitution already established a Supreme Court, but its powers were modest.

It was only with the 1874 Constitution, which came into force in 1875, that the Federal Court became a permanent court. As the highest judicial authority of the Confederation, it was responsible for protecting citizens’ freedoms and fundamental rights, as well as ensuring the uniform application of federal law.

The Federal Court’s seat was assigned to Lausanne, a compromise: Bern is the German-speaking political capital, and Lausanne is the French-speaking legal capital of the country. The Federal Court is housed in the neoclassical building (built in 1922) in Mon-Repos Park.

Every citizen can approach the Federal Court for civil, criminal, or administrative law. The appeal is directed against judgments of the highest cantonal court, the Federal Criminal Court (Tribunal pénal fédéral, Bundesstrafgericht, Tribunale penale federale, Tribunal penal federal) in Bellinzona, the Federal Administrative Court (Tribunal administratif fédéral, Bundesverwaltungsgericht, Tribunale amministrativo federale, Tribunal administrativ federal) in Lucerne, and the Federal Patent Court (Tribunal fédéral des brevets, Bundespatentgericht, Tribunale federale dei brevetti, Tribunale federal da patentas) in St. Gall.

Complaints can be made about violations of federal, international, and intercantonal law. The Federal Court also assesses complaints alleging violations of fundamental rights, as set out in the Federal Constitution or the European Convention on Human Rights. The Federal Court must apply federal laws enacted by Parliament. It can only determine incompatibility with the Constitution.

(Source and further information: Bundesgericht)

Le Parc de Mon-Repos