The Trient Valley from Martigny to Châtelard-Frontière and the Espace Mont Blanc

The distance from Zermatt to Chamonix is 60 kilometres as the crow flies. The route by rail or road is about 140 kilometres. The distance of the hiking trail depends on the route and difficulty and is between 170 and 200 kilometres, but then you get something. Mountain passes, glaciers, numerous streams and waterfalls, valleys, flora and fauna, villages and towns and (with clear weather) the Matterhorn or Mont Blanc in sight.

The Mont Blanc

A combination of transport is also possible. From Zermatt, a train runs through the Matter Valley, and from Stalden ( the other split runs through the Saastal), it goes through the Visper Valley to Visp (named after the river Vispa). Along the way, there are several opportunities for walks with views of Switzerland’s highest mountains.

From Visp, a train or motorway goes to Martigny, with well-known places along the way, including Leuk, Leukerbad, Siders, Crans Montana, Verbier and Sitten and, among others, the Löschental, Turtmanntal, Val d’Anniviers (roughly the canton’s language border), Val d’Hérens, Val de Bagnes, Val d’Entremont and Val Ferret.

However, this contribution focuses on the much lesser-known stretch from Martigny to one of Switzerland’s smallest border towns, Châtelard-Frontière. This route in the Vallée du Trient is 20 kilometres long. This region is also known for the Espace Mont-Blanc project, a joint initiative of France, Italy, and Switzerland.

Picture: Espace Mont Blanc

Martigny

Martigny has a rich (Celtic and Roman) history and a rich cultural offering (including the Fondation Pierre Giannada, the Fondation Barry and the Médiathèque Valais). At Martigny, the Rhone bends to the north.

The Rhone is on its way to Lake Geneva 

After the rise of (English) tourism from 1850 onwards, there was a connection by diligence from Martigny to Chamonix, la Route des Diligences. With the railway construction in 1906, its importance declined. This railway operated only in summer until 1935, then also in winter. Finally, the car made the diligence completely obsolete. However, remnants, including road signs and bridges, can still be seen at Le Trétien.

The road to the French border passes through the villages of Vernayaz, Salvan, Les Marécottes, La Médettaz, Le Trétien, Finhaut, Châtelard-Village, and Châtelard-Frontière, among others. Le Tour des hameaux can cover several hamlets on this route.

The battery of the SBB in Vernayaz

Vernayaz

Juste après Martigny, en direction de Châtelard-Frontière, se trouve la Vallée du Trient. C’est dans les Gorges du Trient, près de la ville de Vernayaz, que s’est déroulée en 1844 l’une des dernières batailles (oubliées) sur le sol suisse. Cette belle vallée est un lieu de randonnée idéal et se trouve à seulement 20 kilomètres de la frontière française.

Salvan

Salvan

The first larger village after Vernayaz is Salvan (home of a Titanic cook and birthplace of telegraphy). The road through the Dailley Canyon (Gorges du Dailley) was built in 1895 and reopened to the public in 1995 after a renovation.

Les Marécottes

The village of Les Marécottes is known, among other things, for its zoo and the vegetable chou-rave valaisan (rutabaga in French), which originated in Sweden (Rotabaggar) but has taken on a life of its own in this and surrounding villages. Jean-Charles Squinabol (1769-1836), a deserter from the army of the Kingdom of Sardinia, settled in the town and introduced this vegetable to the region.

La Médettaz

La Médettaz

Even the hamlet of La Médettaz had a tourist accommodation in 1900, Pension de la Creusaz. Today, there is a campsite. The main attractions are the Gorges du Triège, the ski resort La Creusaz, and the artificial lake Combassas (created in 1898).

Le Trétien

This village is best known for the Gorges du Triège (Gorges du Triège) and its many bridges (built in 1870), the route to Col de la Forclaz, and the Martigny-Chamonix route. The first hotel was built in 1888, followed by la Pension de La Dent du Midi (1893) and le Chalet de la Forêt (1913).

Diligences and traders with their mules had been passing this gorge near the village for centuries. The most famous bridge on this thoroughfare is the 1808 stone bridge, which replaced the wooden bridge that had been in place for centuries. Jean-Charles Squinabol built this bridge.

The bridge and le sentier de Muletiers (1808) 

The present-day bridge 

The Gorges du Triège and its bridges

This road is included in the federal inventory of historical traffic routes (l’inventaire des Voies de communication historiques de la Suisse) due to its cultural-historical value. The picturesque village is included in Switzerland’s cultural heritage (ISOS).

Former hotel and glacier du Trient

Finhaut

Finhaut already had three hotels in 1865; by 1913, on the eve of WWI (1914-1918), there were as many as 19 in this small village, partly due to its location on the Martigny-Chamonix (railway) road, proximity to the Swiss Alps, including the Trient glacier (Le glacier du Trient), nature and the Mont Blanc Massif.

La pension de la Croix- Fédérale (1860), Hôtel-Pension Bel-Oiseau (1879), le Beau Séjour (1892), le Chalet Suisse (1895), le Grand Hôtel de Finhauts (1896), le Mont Fleuri (1906), le Victoria ( 1906) and the famous Bristol hotel (1908), where, among others, Belgium’s King Albert I (1875-1934) regularly stayed, were the main guest accommodations.

Finhaut, Railway station

Bristol Hotel

The church and Chalet Suisse

English visitors built an English church around the turn of the century. After World War I (1914-1918) and especially after World War II (1939-1945), the village could no longer compete with other winter sports villages and their modern facilities. However, it remained a busy holiday resort, especially in summer. Other attractions include the 1929 church, a successor to the old chapel from 1649, the old post office, and Le Café de la Poste.

Châtelard-Village

Châtelard-Village is particularly famous for its dams and the Funiculaire. The Swiss railways (SBB/CFF) built the first hydroelectric power station to supply trains with electricity as early as 1917. Those visionary Swiss!

The hydroelectric power station of the SBB

They used water from the Barbarine, the Eau Noire, the Trient and the Triège. Vernayaz is home to the other power station and the modern battery. These reservoirs were extended by the Vieux-Ermosson in 1955, the Ermosson in 1955 and Châtelard II in 1977. On the French side, the hydropower plant at Vallorcine uses the Ermosson reservoir.

The hydroelectric power station Vallorcine

Châtelard-Frontière

Châtelard-Frontière (La Porte du Valais) owes its existence to the Abbey of St. Maurice. The abbot authorised inhabitants of Salvan to mine and inhabit the area in 1288. Valais was then a county with the bishop of Savoie as count and supreme secular administrator. Savoy governed Vallorcine.

Châtelard-Frontière, railway station

This border has remained unchanged since then, except that the Duchy of Savoy (part of the Kingdom of Sardinia) joined the French Empire of Napoleon III (1808-1873) in 1860 after a referendum, and Valais has been part of the Swiss Confederation since 1815.

One of its first buildings was Madeleine Castle, built in 1323. Châtelard-Frontière makes a deserted impression today. The situation was different in the nineteenth century. Several Grand-Hotels were built around 1850, including L’hôtel Suisse (1840) and L’hôtel Royal (1875).

Unknown artist, 1793. Lithographie de La Porte du Valais. Private collection

Châtelard-Frontière is also the transfer point for the local French train to Chamonix (and St Gervais). On this short route of approximately 11 kilometres, there are hiking trails and facilities for winter and summer sports. But that’s another story.

Impressions  

Argentière (France)

  

The Battle at the Trient Bridge and the Sonderbund War

The Sonderbundskrieg of 1847 is a well-known historical fact. However, who remembers the military confrontation between Old Switzerland (die Alte Schweiz) and Young Switzerland (die Junge Schweiz) on May 21 1844, at the Trient bridge (le pont du Trient) near Vernayaz in (Lower) Valais? Yet this battle, with about 60 dead, was a rehearsal of the Sonderbundskrieg of November 1847.

The canyon and bridge of Trient in 1844 © Archives et médiathèque Sion

At the national level, the radical liberals wanted to reform the 1815 constitution, which is known as the Rossi Plan. The term ‘die Junge Schweiz/la Jeune Suisse’ is derived from ‘la Giovine Italia’ by Joseph Mazzini (1805-1872), an Italian lawyer whose aim was the unity of Italy.

He also founded the movement Young Europe (das Junge Europa/la Jeune Europe) in Bern in 1834 in exil, with the motto ‘Young Europe will defend itself against the Old Europe of the Monarchs (Das Junge Europa wird sich gegen das alte Europa der Könige durchsetzen).

Young Switzerland united a group of radical liberals, but not all of them. In Valais, it sought a stronger national government at the expense of cantonal power, separation of church and state, abolition of censorship, freedom of association, strengthening of citizens’ rights, increased democracy, and free settlement for newcomers, including Protestants in the predominantly Catholic canton. However, the centuries-old dominance of Upper Valais (Oberwallis/Haut-Valais) at the expense of Lower Valais (Unterwallis/Bas-Valais) also played a role.

Maurice Barman (1808-1878) was a Jeune Suisse/Junge Schweiz leader and an essential politician from and for the Bas-Valais/Unterwallis region. Photo: Wikipedia

The Catholic conservatives, and especially the seven Zenden (Tithings) of Upper Valais, actually wanted to maintain the old situation (the ancien régime) and (Catholic) privileges. The Bishop of Sitten was the driving force behind this movement.

The cantonal government (Landrat), which included representatives from Lower Valais (with two members) and Upper Valais (with three members), was divided. At the national level, 11 cantons (actually 10.5) adopted all or part of the Rossi reform around 1830. This process is known as Regeneration. In Valais, however, little or nothing changed.

The Bâtiaz Bridge

From 1830 to 1839, the radical liberals and Young Switzerland gained increasing influence and support. The liberals and conservatives clashed not only verbally: on 11 April 1833, a skirmish broke out at the Bâtiaz Bridge in Martigny. The event goes down in history as the “bastonade” of Martigny.

The polarisation and escalation were such that the Tagsatzung (the national assembly of representatives of the cantons) mediated. This eventually led to changes in the constitution in 1839. However, the Catholic conservatives resisted and founded the movement ‘Old Switzerland’, led by the bishop of Sitten and supported by the seven Zenden of Upper Valais.

The location of the Battle of Trient nowadays, January 2024 

The six Zenden of Lower Valais supported the radical liberals and Young Switzerland. A split in the canton became a real possibility, and the situation became increasingly grim with violence, deaths and injuries.

The radicalisation continued, and both movements assembled a force. After many minor skirmishes, the Battle of the Trient Bridge occurred on May 21, 1844. The Catholic-conservative winners joined the Sonderbund in 1845.

Politically, the events in Valais between 1830 and 1844 are a precursor to the Sonderbundskrieg of 1847 (taking into account the specific sensitivities, historical development and local differences in this canton).

Nor is the March 3 2024, referendum unrelated to this history and the relationship between Lower Valais and Upper Valais.

(Source: Walliser Boten/ Le Nouvelliste; Vallée du Trient)

Vernayaz, the Trient

The English Church in Zermatt

Nothing in the world could induce the inhabitants of the Alps to go up a mountain as a leisure activity, let alone climb peaks. For the peasantry, mountains meant mostly danger from nature, as well as demons and fantasy creatures, until the 18th century.

However, writers, scientists and what we today call alpinists began to take an interest in mountains and their flora and fauna in the late 18th century. The first hikers and mountaineers presented themselves.

Decades before the English period of mountain climbers (around 1850), two French residents from Chamonix, encouraged by the Swiss scientist Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure (1740-1799), climbed Mont Blanc in 1786.

Chamonix,  Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure

However, there was no tourist boom, although this climb was the day’s talk. The French Revolution and subsequent wars, lasting until 1815, halted further development.

The fact is that Britons discovered Switzerland and the Alps around 1850. The flora and fauna of the Alps, along with the beauty of nature and healthy air (not unimportant in Industrial Revolution England), unleashed a veritable trend, especially in the Swiss Alps.

This development was partly due to the favourable coverage in (English) media, politics and business about that exceptional republic with sovereign cantons in the middle of Europe. In short, Switzerland was en vogue, not only for British tourists but also for political refugees from European monarchies on the continent.

The Matterhorn

Zermatt was the cradle of mountaineers. The English Gentleman usually took his family along, too. They expected comfort, and local entrepreneurs, hoteliers, transport operators (until the advent of trains and later cars with carriages), restaurants, and cultural events met the need.

A critical need was a location for the services of the English (Anglican) Church. Zermatt was Catholic, and there was no Protestant church. Church services were initially held in Monte Rosa (owned by Alexander Seiler), Mont Cervin (owned by Joseph Clementz), and the Hotel des Alpes.

Zermatt, Alexander Seiler (1819-1891) and Katharina Seiler (1834-1895) monument

With financial and political support from Seiler and Clementz, English tourists began fundraising for an Anglican church in early 1865. Then, however, disaster struck. The first successful ascent of the Matterhorn on July 14 1865, ended with the deaths of four of the seven mountaineers. Among the victims was alpinist-dominee Charles Hudson (1828-1865). Mountaineering, Zermatt and the Matterhorn fell out of favour for several years.

Time heals (many) wounds, and the Baedeker (a leading ‘Lonely Planet’) again praised them in 1868. Moreover, American tourists had also found their way to Zermatt.

The first church service in the new Anglican church took place on June 29 1870. The Bishop of Dover, Edward Parry (1830-1890), consecrated the church on August 6, 1871. The unfortunate Charles Hudson found his final resting place under the church’s altar, and other crashed climbers were given a place around the church.

Zermatt was again the most important place to be for mountaineers, and the church was the ‘parish church of the (British) Alpine Club’, founded in 1857. The prestige was so great that the British Alpine Club commemorated its centenary in Zermatt and the English church!

After 1870, however, an increasing number of tourists came for reasons other than climbing. Other summer and winter sports have developed. Winston Churchill (1874-1961) visited Zermatt in 1894. Although he is known, among other things, for saying ‘no sports’, he was indeed a sportsman in his younger years. According to tradition, he even climbed Monte Rosa (4634 m).

These times are long gone, and after 1945, the composition of tourists and their pursuits underwent significant changes. However, the Anglican church is still an important centre for (English-speaking) tourists and Protestant services.

(Source and further information: Cicely Williams, A Church in the Alps, Zermatt 1970, 6th edition, in 2006; www.zermatt.ch).

The Basler Fasnacht 2024

The Basler Fasnacht (19-21 February) is history again. But what a magical, emotional and at the same time familiar moment it was again on Monday morning at 04.00 on the Martinsplatz (and other places in the city centre).

The weeks and days preceding Fasnacht, Vorfasnacht, were already dominated by this moment. Various performances in theatres, schools, cafes, restaurants and other establishments and organisations were the warming-up.

However, many months before, the active participants, the Fasnächtler and Fasnächtlerinnen, and their formations, associations, and Cliques were already busy with the creative, musical, and organisational preparations. They deserve the honour of being recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Not only to them, but the hundreds of thousands of visitors, the Fasnacht committee ( Fasnachtscomité), other Fasnacht associations, the city administration, and numerous volunteers also make this grandiose event a (centuries-old) phenomenon.

Or, in the words of the editor-in-chief of the Basler Zeitung:

“Basel’s Fasnacht is not just another UNESCO cultural world heritage. It is a phenomenon: 72 hours of a city in ecstasy, 72 hours of cheerfulness, friendliness, a wonderful atmosphere, no rushing, no stress even in the biggest crowds, no suspicion and very little aggression. A city frees itself from discontent and becomes a bastion of tolerance and humour. Morgestraich, Cortège, Schnitzelbängg, Kinder-Fasnacht, Guggen music, wandering around the alleys – everything has its purpose. Nothing is too small or too big, too old or too modern. Traditions are important for a society. They strengthen cohesion. And they connect yesterday with tomorrow”.

(Die Basler Fasnacht ist nicht nur Weltkulturerbe. Sie ist ein Phänomen. 72 Stunden Ausnahmezustand, 72 Stunden Fröhlichkeit, Geselligkeit, prächtige Stimmung, keine Hetze, kein Stress, auch nicht im grössten Gedränge, kein Argwohn und nur ganz wenig Aggresivität. Eine Stadt Eine befreit sich von ihrem Missmut und wird zu einer Hochburg von Toleranz und Humor. Morgestraich, Cortège, Schnitzelbängg, Kinder-Fasnacht, Gugge-Zyschtig, Gässle – alles hat seinen Sinn. Nichts ist zu klein oder zu gross, zu alt oder zo modern. Traditionen sind für eine Gesellschaft wichtig. Sie stärken den Zusammenhalt. Und sie verbinden das Gestern mit dem Morgen).

(Marcel Rohr, editor-in-chief of the Basler Zeitung on 22 February 2024)

The huge crowds in the narrowest alleys and even the many drinks in and outside pubs until the early hours of the morning have not (so far) led to severe incidents. The discipline, respect, pleasure, and organisation of tens of thousands of participants go hand in hand with the spectators’ intense experience, modesty, and gratitude.

And at 08.00 in the morning on 22 February, (most of) the streets had the same look as on 18 February. Nach der Fasnacht ist eben vor der Fasnacht.

The Martinsplatz, at 03.59 AM

 

The Martinsplatz and the city centre at 04.00 AM and later

Still lives 

 

 

 Impressions of Fasnacht 2024

The Laternen or street art in Basel

A selection of photo’s by Guido Wasser, Photographer:

Blagedde and theme Fasnacht 2024, Vogelfrei

International Romansh Language Week in Milan

The fourth edition of the international Romansh Language Week (Emna rumantscha) at Milan’s Swiss Centre started on 19 February. The Swiss Federal Department of Foreign Affairs (FDFA) runs this week in collaboration with the Canton of Graubünden and Lia Rumantscha.

The kick-off event – ‘From words to ideas: six Swiss and Italian regions in dialogue’ – focused on innovation and sustainability between Switzerland and northern Italy, with fashion featuring prominently given its concurrence with Milan Fashion Week.

Switzerland and Italy share not only three European languages (Italian, German and French) but also three Rhaeto-Romanic languages (Romansh, Ladin and Friulian). The two countries’ commitment to preserving this diversity is a source of innovation. It is the backdrop for the fourth Romansh Language Week at the Swiss Centre of Milan.

The Romansh Language Week is one of a series of events that emphasise the importance of multilingualism for national cohesion, as well as for Swiss foreign policy.

These events include the Multilingualism Days and the specific Italian (Settimana della lingua italiana nel mondo), French (Semaine de la francophonie ) and German (Woche der deutschen Sprache) language weeks. Switzerland’s linguistic diversity is indeed a characteristic of the country.

(Source and further information: www.admin.ch)

A short History of Gelterkinden

Gelterich, today’s village of Gelterkinden (canton of Basel-Landschaft), was first mentioned in a document in 1103. The Alemannic name means Hof des Geltrich or Sippe der Geltrichingen; ‘ingen’ is a name from the Alemannic period.

The Tiersteiner on Farnsburg administered the village. The monastery of St. Alban, St. Leonhard, the cathedral chapter, and various secular lords from Basel also owned estates in Gelterkinden. In 1461, the city of Basel acquired Gelterkinden and the Farnsburg estate.

Gelterkinden remained loyal to Basel in 1832 and called for troops from Basel. The request was followed by a storming of the municipality by troops of the Landschaft (Gelterkinder Sturm of April 1832). The village has been part of the new canton Basel-Landschaft since 1833.

(Quelle und weitere Informationen: W. Dettwiler, Gelterkinden, Historisches Lexicon der Schweiz;  Gemeinde Gelterkinden)

St. Peter Church, 9th century

The Arve, Rhone, Mont Blanc en Geneva

At first glance, the Arve and Rhone rivers have little in common. The source of the Arve is near the village of Le Tour on the French-Swiss border at the Col de Balme, which is part of the Mont Blanc Massif.

The Arve in Chamonix

The river first flows west and is fed by the mighty glaciers of Glacier du Tour, Argentière, Mer de Glace, Des Bossons, and Tête Rousse, as well as numerous streams. In Chamonix, it already has a respectable volume before curving northwards towards Geneva.

In Geneva, it flows into the Rhône at the Carouge district before turning south and ultimately emptying into the Mediterranean. This course is somewhat reminiscent of the river Le Doubs.

The Arve in Carouge (Geneva)

The Mont Blanc viewpoint Geneva

Geneva: Neptune, Arve and Rhône, mosaic in the cathedral

It originates in the French Jura before flowing eastwards into the Swiss Jura, then reversing direction again after St-Ursanne (canton of Jura), and finally flowing into the Saône, which also empties into the Rhône at Lyon.

Chamonix (Department of Haute-Savoie) is not just any place but the location of the Mont Blanc (4,808 m), Europe’s highest mountain (apart from the Elbrus in the Caucasus).

Chamonix

Chamonix is also home to the first successful climbers of Mont Blanc: Jacques Balmat (1762-1834) and Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757-1824). They were the first alpinists to climb a 4,000+ meter giant.

Monument of Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard 

Chamonix, monument of Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure

The scientist, alpinist, botanist and geologist Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure (1740-1790) was the second climber of Mont Blanc in 1787. He was a citizen of Geneva, which was then an independent republic.

Chamonix Catholic church, a monument to some of the climbers who perished

Nowadays, approximately 20,000 tourists and climbers reach the summit every year. Moreover, a cable car transports interested parties to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi (3842).

Not surprisingly, Swiss engineers initially devised the plan. They had already gained extensive experience building cable cars and train stations, even at 3454m altitude (Jungfraujoch). However, French (1927) and later Italian (1955) entrepreneurs and engineers made the route what it is today.

The Aiguille du Midi

This location offers excellent views of the valley, the Mont Blanc Massif, and the French, Swiss, and Italian Alps. On a clear day, even the Matterhorn can be seen!

The locomotive No8, Winterthur 1923

The cog railway of Montenvers

Another interesting railway station (a cog railway) runs from Montenvers station in Chamonix to the Mer de Glace glacier. The opening of this route in 1909 was a sensation, typical of the technical progress of the Belle Époque. Moreover, a cable car goes to the Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif.

The distance between the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc is about 70 kilometres. What lies between Switzerland’s most famous but not highest mountain and Mont Blanc is another story and will be covered in other contributions.

La Mer de Glace

 

La Mer de Glace in 1907

La Mer de Glace in 2024

What do foreigners know about Switzerland?

In the last edition of the Neue Zürcher Zeitung am Sonntag of 2023, the Financial Times correspondent asked, ‘Ist die Schweiz sympathisch?’ (Is Switzerland sympathetic?)

He then lists several examples of Switzerland’s image abroad: prosperous by Jewish assets and looted goods, neutrality and profiting from World War II (1939-1945), the banking secret and dirty and criminal money, an ‘American Constitution’, isolationist and not caring about the outside world, in short, the usual cliched stereotypes apparently intended to elicit an emotional reaction.

Basel, Fasnacht 2024

 How well do foreigners know Switzerland?

The title of his article needs to be corrected. It should read, ‘How well do foreigners (and this correspondent) know Switzerland?’ This correspondent’s knowledge is as superficial, incorrect and tendentious as the verdict of holidaymakers on their way to their Swiss destination: ‘Basel is an ugly city’.

They base their judgment on tunnels and industrial areas viewed from motorways without visiting the city. The same applies to the European Union’s self-proclaimed ‘Switzerland expert’ Andreas Schwab. He recently stated that Switzerland isolates itself (Die Schweiz schottet sich ab) because a (large) majority of citizens do not want to be a member of the EU.

Basel

Neutrality

The country always defended itself against the German Reich and Italy in 1939-1945. Switzerland was the only European country not formally represented at the parade on April 20, 1939 (the 50th birthday of Hitler) because Germany had invaded Czechoslovakia in March 1939.

German- and Italian-speaking Swiss citizens overwhelmingly opposed an Anschluss or Irredentismo. Instead, they voted overwhelmingly for multilingualism, democracy and their multicultural society, as evidenced by the acceptance of Romansh as the fourth national language in 1938. Brown or black parties have never played a significant role, unlike in the Netherlands, France, or Romania, not to mention Germany, Austria, Hungary, or Italy.

Einsiedeln, Kanton Schwyz, ‘Toblerones’, anti-tank defences put in place during 1940-1945. They reflect the genuine threat of a German invasion which existed at the time

Despite France’s fast capitulation in June 1940 and being surrounded by ruthless dictatorships, Switzerland defended itself and regularly shot down German planes. The will and capability to protect itself through the Réduit strategy, along with popular support, were clear to the dictators. The price of an invasion no longer outweighed the advantages of transiting through a neutral country. However, the threat of invasion remained ever-present (Operation Tannenbaum), as the German invasion of Hungary in March 1944 also showed.

Gland, La Villa rose. Photo: Wikipedia

Switzerland did have to make compromises, including trading with the enemy, as all (neutral and occupied) countries did: France (Vichy), Russia (a close ally of Germany until June 22 1941), Sweden and Finland (an ally of Germany until 1944) in the first place.

The closing of borders to some (Jewish) refugees before and during the war is a black page, but again, Switzerland was not the exception but the rule. America, the Netherlands, Canada and the UK had the same policy until 1940. And per capita, Switzerland accepted many (Jewish) refugees.

Moreover, neutrality was accepted as early as 1648 (Peace of Westphalia). At the time of the Congress of Vienna (1815), the new Confederation was rewarded for resisting the French dictator and its (military) value was recognised as a neutral country.

As the only occupied territory, Napoleon had to abandon his ambitions of a unitary state (the Helvetic Republic 1798-1803) on the French model due to the resistance of the cantons! The Confederation of sovereign cantons was reinstated and was the basis for the new Confederation in 1815.

Photo:Franzoseneinfall in Nidwalden, www.franzoseneinfall.ch

Ukraine, the scandal and the (new) European shame 

This neutrality is not set in stone and has been subject to adaptation in response to new circumstances (membership in the UN, the ECHR, and cooperation with NATO). Therefore, it is not ‘scandalous’ (this correspondent) that the country does not export tanks to Ukraine. He also ignores current political and public discussions and changes on the issue.

If the country has never made any promises, it cannot be disappointing or scandalous. In contrast, the European Union, Germany, France and the Netherlands act shamefully and fail to keep promises and (NATO) agreements.

Banking secrecy

Swiss banking secrecy was not created for dirty or criminal money from foreigners, but as a reflection of the privacy of the very discreet Swiss. This system has been massively abused, especially after 1945, by foreigners, whose tax morals are considerably worse. Swiss bankers are no better or worse than bankers in other countries and take the opportunities presented.

This principle of fairness also applies to unclaimed Jewish assets from after 1945. Jewish survivors could withdraw and retrieve their money or (looted) goods after the war without any problem. The Anne Frank family is just one example.

They stayed in Switzerland (a part of the family since 1929), and Otto Frank, Anne’s father, founded the Anne Frank Foundation in 1945 and initiated the publication of her diary in Basel. The problem was the small number of Jewish survivors and, consequently, the limited number of those authorised to have access. There were often no direct heirs, and nobody knew about bank accounts or (stolen) art of those who had perished.

Opekta in Amsterdam was the business of the Frank family, operating in Germany, the Netherlands (since 1933), and Switzerland (since 1929). The street (Merwedeplein) of the house of the Franks is on the right. Photo: TES. Exhibition ‘Anne Frank und die Schweiz’. Nationalmuseum Zürich

It only became topical with the tracing of mostly very indirect heirs by mostly commission-driven lawyers. These often very distant heirs frequently knew nothing about these relatives, and the same applies to the stolen or looted goods. That family members are entitled to these properties is obvious, but there needs to be specific legal proof. That can be a problem in a hierarchical, rigid, bureaucratic banking system.

That indirect family members and their lawyers primarily sought personal profit, and not justice, is also evident from the fact that only a few donated precious art or their ‘inheritance’ to museums or charities.

Of course, there are issues such as looted gold from other countries, other looted art or, for example, the “J” in passports after 1938. The handling could and should have been different. But it is easy and anachronistic to criticise in hindsight without the context of a time when nobody knew how the war would end and the permanent threat of subsequent dictatorships.

However, the English correspondent emphasises these stereotypes and moral (pre-)judgements without providing historical, legal, and social context.

Swiss circles

Swiss academic and (self-appointed) intellectual circles also often portray the country as medieval, isolationist, and selfish. They have already written many Books and articles on the ‘backwards’ William Tell story, the creation of Switzerland thanks to European superpowers or the ‘shameful’ rejection of EU membership.

It is as if academics in other countries question the existence of Romulus and Remus, the cross of Constantine, the goddess Athena, or the revolutionary Marianne. It is irrelevant whether William Tell existed or not. The beautiful (mythical) story symbolises the Zeitgeist around 1300 in Central Switzerland (Innerschweiz).

City Hall of Fribourg/Freiburg and the Eternal Peace Treaty with France, 1516

The historical development of the Eidgenossenschaft of Orte (from the 16th century, also called cantons) from the 13th century onwards is a fact. Its military and political prestige, following its many victories over the powerful Habsburgs (1315-1499), the Burgundians (1476-1477), and the Dukes of Savoy (1536), was great.

Without the Eidgenossenschaft, there would probably have been a kingdom of Burgundy instead of a French kingdom in 1500. France needed the Eidgenossenschaft after 1516 because of the quality of its soldiers, traffic routes, (textile) industry and traders.

Cosmopolitan

Moreover, Switzerland developed into a unique direct ‘militia’ democracy after 1848 through innovation, education, industry, trade, openness, entrepreneurship and the development of a federal, decentralised and multicultural state.

It has nothing to do with an American-style Constitution, which this correspondent falsely claims. He relies solely on the Senate (Ständerat), which is indeed based on the American model, but so what! It mainly shows the cosmopolitan and open character of the country.

Basel, Haus zur Mücke, Europe’s first museum

Moreover, the country has been at the centre of Europe since Celtic and Roman times. It has always been internationally oriented with a vast interest in other cultures, trade, art and science.

This correspondent could read publications (also available in English) on the centuries-old global citizenship of traders and entrepreneurs in textiles, watch and clock making, raw materials, foodstuffs, Zuckerbäcker, ceramics, finance, mechanical engineering, shipping, shoes, hair combs or chocolate, to mention just a few examples and leaving aside the countless soldiers, students, political advisers, scientists, artists, architects and other professions abroad. Consequently, this innovative country has a very high number of patents today.

Refugees and multiculturalism

That Swiss live in ‘exile in their own country’ (Die Schweizer leben, ohne es zu bemerken, in einer Art Exil. Sie sind betäubt, unempfindlich gegenüber den problemen der Welt. Die Psychologie des Exils) and do not care about (misery in) other countries is also a (bad) joke.

The Red Cross, the first international arbitration in Geneva in 1869, Bourbaki or Strasbourg in 1871, the Mission in Basel, French soldiers in 1914-1918, Huguenots and other religiously persecuted in the 16th and 17th centuries, Erasmus, Edward Gibbon, Lord Byron, Josephine de Beauharnais, Rousseau, Calvin, Madame de Staël, Chaplin, Rilke, Kirchner, French, Italian, German and Russian political refugees in the 19th century, Dada or, for example, the world’s first (ethnographic) museums tell a different story. Switzerland still receives many refugees, thanks to a relatively effective integration system.

George Kuhnt, Konditorei Barth & Cloetta, Breslau, c. 1854. Ausstellung ‘Die Bünder Auswanderungsgeschichte von Zuckerbäckern’.

Every day, nearly 400,000 French, Italians and Germans from the (impoverished) European Union travel to this small country for well-paid jobs; hundreds of thousands live and work in Switzerland permanently.

Many residents are from non-Swiss backgrounds and usually integrate well. Citizenship should be deserved, however, and is not a right in itself because citizens are the real politicians with rights and obligations.

The centuries-old cooperation among different regions, cantons, languages, and contacts with foreign countries also contribute to this mentality. The diversity of the centuries-old bishoprics indicates the country’s multicultural and cosmopolitan character.

The Mont Terri Rock Laboratory

Conclusion

The correspondent, Sam Jones, is not a caricature of a correspondent or journalist. He symbolises today’s journalists’ often poor educational level, commitment, and activism. He is in the good company of, for example, Johannes Ritter of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung or of a reporter of the Guardian, who cried ‘Swiss racism’ when the coloured CEO of Credit Suisse was (too late) fired because of his (and others’) financial if not criminal mismanagement and misbehaviour.

Basel, Fasnacht 2024

Foreigners often have access to these sources, but expats are frequently uninterested. This correspondent confirms the decline of the credibility of mainstream journalism and many newspapers. Fortunately, he found his place in Europe’s Woke capital (after Amsterdam).

Switzerland is neither a paradise, alas, nor an island, and its citizens are not better or worse than anywhere else. Switzerland, nevertheless, remains an oasis of direct democracy, civil society, Europe’s best newspapers, and common sense in the midst of an often uncomfortable and, in many respects, challenging EU/Europe.

Or, in the words of the Hungarian writer Sándor Márai (1900-1989):

“Wonderful Switzerland had remained itself. And staying itself is, after all, as heroic as panicking for the truth. Some cases can only be won on appeal, and this small island in Europe has stubbornly and consistently relied on winning on appeal for the past century. Switzerland should not be ashamed to be left out (of WWII). It is enough that I am ashamed of being there and being unable to do anything. Don’t be ashamed of guarding the rocky borders of your small country where the people dared to say ‘no’, with all its consequences.

Nor should you be ashamed of living in capitalism because, for now, this system functions satisfactorily: wherever you look, well-paid people are doing jobs, and everyone respects other people’s property (Sándor Márai, Memoir of Hungary 1944-1948, ‎Central European University Press, 2001).

The Constitution of the Swiss Confederation, Bern, 12.9.1848. Copy at the exhibition ‘Zum Geburtstag viel Recht. 175 Jahre ‘Bundesverfassung’, Landesmuseum Zürich. 

Reigoldswil, Region Wasserfallen, Mills, Cable Car and Rifenstein Castle

The first known owners of the village Reigoldswil (canton of Basel-Landschaft) were the Lords of Frohburg. The name Rigoltswire (Rigolt’s hamlet) was first mentioned in 1152. In 1366, the village passed to the Bishop of Basel. Between 1400 and 1798, the village was under the rule of the city of Basel.

Rifenstein Castle was inhabited from 1200 to the middle of the 14th century, after which it fell into disrepair. During the years of the separation of the Canton of Basel (1832-1833), Reigoldswil initially remained on the side of the city. To support Reigoldswil, Basler troops marched into the village on August 3 in vain.

On 26 August 1833, the secession was decided by a resolution of the Tagsatzung, the meeting of representatives of the cantons, and Reigoldswil became part of the new canton of Basel-Landschaft.

The Reigoldswil-Wasserfallen Luftseilbahn was put into operation in 1956.

The building was constructed in the 19th century as an office for the Wasserfallen railway. This railway line would have connected Liestal with Olten in the 19th century. There was, however, no money to build the tunnel, and the office subsequently became a sawmill, the Äussere Säge. It was powered by a waterwheel until 1943. Waterwheels also powered two other saws and two mills in the little village! The wheel in the picture is a 1991 copy, but it still functions and provides energy!

(Source: www.reigoldswil.ch).

The hunters trail  (Das Jägerswägli)

 

The Region Wasserfallen, nomen est omen

The Village of Salvan, Marconi and the Titanic

As is well known, Switzerland does not border the sea, although 20 million years ago, the country was by and in the sea. Yet the small mountain village of Salvan (canton of Valais) has its maritime history.

The Titanic, the largest and most luxurious passenger ship of its time, collided with an iceberg on April 14, 1912, during her journey from Southampton to New York. Alexis Bochatay (1881-1912) from Salvan was also on board as a cook. He did not survive.

Another event occurred 17 years earlier in Salvan and was significant for the Titanic. It did not help Alexis Bochatay, but SOS signals saved countless people. The Titanic also sent this signal, and about 700 people could still be rescued.

This tragedy highlighted the humanitarian role of telegraphy. Thanks to the invention of Italian Guglielmo Marconi (1874-1937), the Titanic could send a SOS (Save Our Souls) message.

On the colossal boulder, Pierre Bergère, Marconi sent the first telegraphic messages in the summer of 1895. After many attempts, he succeeded, first 5, then 100 and then over hundreds of metres. Telegraphy was born in Salvan!

The Marconi Trail (Sentier Marconi) and the Marconi Museum (musée Marconi) in Salvan show the Nobel laureate’s experiments.

(Source and further information: Commune of Salvan)

The house (on the right), where Marconi lived in the summer of 1895.