Swimming in the Rhine

The annual Basler Rheinschwimmen (Basler Rhyschimme) took place on 12 August. The start was punctual at 18.00 with the traditional cannon shot. The course is 1.5 km from the Tinguely Museum to the Johanniter Brücke on the Kleinbasler bank.

A few Baslers swim in the Rhine every day from spring to autumn, weather or no weather. The brave ones even hold out in the winter months. In the summer months and especially with good weather, the Rhine is an open-air swimming pool.

The annual Rheinschwimmen brings together thousands of swimmers. The event is organised by the Schweizerische Lebensrettungs-Gesellschaft (SLRG) Sektion Basel.

The swimmers enter the starting point in a festive procession and then enter the water (at 23.5 °C). Despite the low Rhine level, the Rhine is still heading towards Rotterdam. After 1.5 km of floating/swimming downstream, a musical and culinary welcome awaits at the finish.

Logo: www.sport.bs.ch

The Walser, Davos, Holsboer, the Zauberberg and Kirchner

Before the arrival of the Walsers, the Davos area (Canton of Graubünden) was inhabited by Romansh-speaking people. The German-speaking Walser settled in the 13th century from Obervaz, Lenz, Brienz and Alvaneu. The area belonged to the barons of Vaz. The Walsers had the right to expand their living space. They founded other villages, such as Arosa, Lenzerheide, and many others.

Davos and its lake

Davos took on a leading political role in the Walser area, which united in 1436 to form the Zehngerichtebund, the League of the ten (sovereign) jurisdictions.

This League was the most democratic of the Three Leagues (Gotteshausbund, Grauer Bund and Zehngerichtenbund). The principle applied that the minority had to obey the majority. Davos was its meeting place, and the head of the Zehngerichtebund was Davos’s mayor (Landammann).

 

The Schweizerhaus

The Town Hall has been the political centre for more than 700 years. Its importance came after the founding of the Zehngerichtebund. The town hall also became the seat of the court. In 1559, the building, which dates back to the 13th century, was destroyed by fire; however, it was rebuilt a few years later. The town hall received its strict cubic form in 1930. The last renovation took place in

The English Church of St Luke was built in 1883 by the English colony in the style of a neo-Romanesque mountain church. 

The first English guest arrived in Davos in 1869, and shortly thereafter, an increasing number of English people began to travel to the area. Many English people stayed in spa hotels or built villas. Thus, as in many other villages in the canton (and Switzerland), the English quarter developed. From 1891 to 1939, they maintained a consulate, a newspaper, and a library with 6,000 volumes, one of the largest English libraries on the continent.

Tourism began when Alexander Spengler from Germany and the Dutchman Willem Holsboer founded the spa Spengler-Holsboer in 1868. Holsboer was also responsible for constructing the railway from Landquart to Davos in 1890.

Collection: Waldhotel Davos

Hotels, sanatoriums and villas boomed. Summer- and winter sports came to Davos along with the spa guests.

The strong presence of the English can also be seen in the construction of the Belvedere Hotel, which was built according to the latest standards at the insistence of an Englishman.

The Congress Hall (Kongresszentrum)

Davos is also a conference and centre of scientific research nowadays, and is home to internationally renowned research institutes.

(Source: www. gemeindedavos.ch)

Thomas Mann, der Zauberberg, the Waldhotel and Ernst Ludwig Kirchner

When you say Davos, you also say Thomas Mann (1875-1955) and Ernst-Ludwig Kirchner (1880-1938). From May 15 to June 12, 1912, Thomas Mann stayed in the Haus am Stein, located below today’s Waldhotel Davos, the former Waldsanatorium.

His wife, Katia Mann (1883-1980), was staying there for a cure. Inspired by his impressions, he wrote ‘Der Zauberberg’ from 1913 to 1924. The book gave Davos and today’s Waldhotel a place in world literature.

The Waldhotel Davos will present the VR installation “Im Zauberberg” on August 8 and 28, and September 11, in the Thomas Mann Year 2025, which marks the 150th anniversary of the writer’s birth.

   

Impressions from the Waldhotel Davos. The Waldhotel dedicates some rooms, documentation and pictures to its past and famous guests.

Ernst Ludwig Kirchner

Ernst Ludwig Kirchner was a German painter and graphic artist. He is one of the most important representatives of Expressionism and was a founding member of the Brücke group of artists. In 1917, he relocated to Davos, where he passed away in 1938. The Kirchner Museum Davos is dedicated to the artist.

The Waldhotel Davos today

Ernen is a music village again

In Ernen (canton of Valais), pianist György Sebők (1922-1999) found the ideal inspiration to (re)discover music. In recent decades, his master classes have led to a musical oasis in the Alps.

The Musikdorf Ernen festival features a diverse program. Every summer, the mountain village is transformed into a vibrant cultural kaleidoscope, featuring a diverse range of events, including baroque music, piano recitals, jazz concerts, lectures, and performances of orchestral and chamber music.

Workshops and lectures also attract musicians and visitors from all over the world. The former village of Bishop and Cardinal Schiner is then once again transformed into a music village for a few months.

(Source and further information: Musikdorf Ernen)

Belle van Zuylen becomes Isabelle de Charrière

Isabella Agneta Elisabeth van Tuyll van Serooskerken was born on October 20, 1740, at Zuylen Castle in the village of Zuilen (province of Utrecht). Her father, Baron Diederik Jacob van Tuyll van Serooskerken (1706-1776), was a high-ranking politician in the province of Utrecht and the States General of the Republic of the Seven United Provinces (Holland, Groningen, Gelderland, Utrecht, Overijssel, Zeeland, and Friesland). Her mother, Helena Jacoba de Vicq (1724-1768), belonged to a family of regents from Amsterdam. Isabella’s nickname was Belle from the beginning.

Belle’s house at Kromme Nieuwe Gracht 35 in Utrecht during the winter months, with a view of the Dom Tower and close to the Walloon/Waalse (Pieters) Kerk

The Republic and the Swiss Confederation, the Principality of Neuchâtel, and Geneva

The Republic of the United Provinces, the Swiss Confederation (Eidgenossenschaft) of the thirteen cantons, the Republic of Geneva, and the Prussian Principality of Neuchâtel maintained close cultural, economic, diplomatic, military, and religious relations at that time.

Nijmegen, Bastion Museum, model of a wooden raft that sailed down the Rhine from Basel for centuries. A testimony from 1611.: “Als ich 1611 im Früling mit Gottes hilff auff meinem Handwerck zu wandern auf den Rhenistrom hinabgezogen und zu Amsterdam angelangt, allda auch einen Meister gefunden“, from the Reiseberichte (1624) by Samuel Braun from Basel, used in a roman by Helen Liebendörfer, Die Abenteuer des Samuel Braun. Als Schiffarzt nach Afrika (Basel 2023)

In Belle’s life, Swiss citizens played an important role from an early age. Geneva was the capital of Calvinism, the dominant religion in the Dutch Republic. Many citizens of the Republic lived and studied at Calvin’s Academy in Geneva for a short or long period.

In winter, the family attended religious services at the French-speaking Reformed Church, known as Waalse or Pieterskerk, in Utrecht, and in summer, at the castle chapel. Belle’s family was also Calvinist, which later played a role in rejecting a marriage suitor.

Constant d’Hermenches (right) and two other Swiss officers in their red uniforms serving the Republic. Anonymous. Collection: Zuylen Castle

Many Swiss also served in the army of the Republic. Belle maintained long-term correspondence and friendship with some of them, notably with Constant d’Hermenches.

The Cent Suisses in the Republic. They introduced klaverjassen to Switzerland, under the name Jass.

The Cent Suisses at the Fête des Vignerons in Vevey, 2019

Additionally, Swiss diplomats and officers were frequent guests in The Hague, the residence of the Stadtholder, the Prince of Orange, and the seat of the States General, the equivalent of the Tagsatzung of the Confederation. The provinces and cantons were sovereign republics.

A Swiss soldier in a blue uniform serving the Republic. Collection Landesmuseum Zurich

Belle’s Childhood

Belle had four brothers (Reinout Gerard (1741-1759), Willem René (1743-1839), Diederik Jacob (1744-1773), and Vincent Maximiliaan (1747-1794)), and two sisters (Johanna Maria (1746-1803) and Geertruida Jacoba (1749-1749)). This noble and ancient family resided at the castle from May to October and in Utrecht from November to April.

In her childhood, Belle received the typical French-speaking education for noble girls of the time, which included religion, writing, reading, music, literature, drawing, history, geography, arithmetic, painting, and other manual skills.

Jeanne-Louise Prevost from Geneva was her governess from 1746 to 1753. Belle spent 9 months with her (from August 1750 to May 1751) in Lausanne and Geneva, and on the return journey in Lyon, Chambéry, and Paris.

Belle van Zuylen, 1771, copy of plaster original (wedding gift) by Jean Antoine Houdin (1741-1828). The original is in Neuchâtel. Collection: Zuylen Castle

Upon her return, she was bilingual and, more importantly for her literary education, she was exposed to French literature, theatre, and music, which the governess encouraged.

The governess also encouraged her to study “boy-studies,” such as philosophy, geometry, mathematics, physics, or architecture. Belle was very receptive to these subjects.

The governess returned to Geneva in 1753, but they continued to correspond intensively. Unfortunately, only the governess’s correspondence has been preserved. Her successor was the Swiss governess Suzanne Girard-Trembley from Geneva.

Left: J. Maurer (1737-1780), Belle van Zuylen, after a portrait by Maurice Quentin de Latour (1704-1788), right: Helena Jacoba de Vicq, attributed to Belle van Zuylen. Collection: Zuylen Castle

After 1755, Belle had other concerns: finding a marriage partner. Following her first love, she began writing letters, marking the beginning of a correspondence that spans approximately 2,600 preserved letters. These letters already show the influence of French and sometimes English literature translated into French, for example, Samuel Richardson’s “Clarissa, or the History of a Young Lady.”

Belle’s writing room (replica) in Zuylen Castle

In addition to searching for a suitor, Belle also sought to establish her place in society, particularly through personal development. She was aware of her high birth and the expectations of marrying a man of the same rank, but she did not want and could not deny her curious and independent character.

The Writer Belle

We owe not only an archive of approximately 2,600 preserved letters but also newspaper articles, novels, fables, essays, plays, poems, some musical compositions, and even political pamphlets from the French Revolution, all written in the French language. Most of her literary works were written after 1771 until she died in 1805 in Colombier (canton of Neuchâtel).

Her first literary publications appeared in French-language publications in the Republic and France. Her self-portrait, “Zélide,” appeared in 1762 in the Mercure de France, and “Le Noble” in 1763 in the Journal étranger, combined with L’Année littéraire of Amsterdam. “Le Noble” (the noble) is a caricature of the life of an aristocrat. It shows Belle’s critical spirit, which was not appreciated by everyone, including her father, who purchased the entire print run!

Picture: Wikipedia

Additionally, French-language publications were available in the castle’s library, the house in Utrecht, or elsewhere, including volumes of Diderot and d’Alembert’s Encyclopedia, the Gazette littéraire de l’Europe, and Montesquieu’s De l’Esprit des Lois.

Belle read these publications and others to stay informed about the latest political, literary, and cultural developments and also discussed them in her correspondence.

As the daughter of a noble family, she was a frequent guest at soirées and other events of the upper circles from 1755. On February 28, 1760, she attended her first ball in The Hague at the Stadtholder’s (the Prince of Orange) and his family’s residence.

The Marriage

It was there that she met the Swiss colonel David-Louis, Baron de Constant de Rebecque, Lord of Villars-Mendraz and Hermenches (1722-1785). The baron was in the service of the Republic, and they corresponded very openly until 1775 about friendship, love, fidelity, suitors, their poems and other literary works, politics, war, and peace.

Jean Baptist Bonjour (1801-1882), portrait of Baron de Constant de Rebecque, Lord of Villars-Mendraz et d’Hermenches, 1839, copy of an original painting

At the time, it was delicate to correspond with a married man 17 years her senior, and Belle asked him to destroy all the letters she had written. Fortunately, he did not. A good friend of d’Hermenches was Henri de la Sarraz, the commander of the famous Hundred Swiss, the bodyguard of the Stadtholder in The Hague, similar to the Swiss Guard in the Vatican.

A series of Scottish, German, Dutch, Danish, and French candidates paraded until 1768, including the Danish king, German princes and counts, Scottish lords, and many nobles of the Republic.

Although this did not lead to a marriage, Belle and the candidates corresponded a lot. A marriage proposal in the highest circles was a time-consuming affair, especially if the candidates lived far away or were travelling. The Polish count Pieter Dönhoff (1720-1764) and the young Scottish lord James Boswell (1740-1795) were promising suitors.

But the most serious candidate from 1764 to 1768 was François-Eugène Robert Noyel, Marquis de Bellegarde (1720-1790). He was a major general in the service of the Republic and came from the Savoy. Savoy was then a duchy within the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia. However, there was a problem: Bellegarde was Catholic. And her father was inflexible.

Isabelle de Charrière

In June 1768, another candidate appeared, the Swiss lord Charles-Emmanuel de Charrière de Penthaz (1735-1808). He was the governor of Belle’s brother, Willem René, from 1763 to 1766.

De Charrière’s country house, “Le Pontet,” is situated among the vineyards of Colombier. The correspondence between the two began with a letter from De Charrière.

Louis-Ami Arlaud-Jurine (1751–1829), Charles-Emmanuel de Charrière, 1781, Collection: Bibliothèque de Genève

There was a good understanding between Belle and Charles-Emmanuel, but his financial position and low nobility were less evident. Belle’s parents initially hesitated, but the marriage contract was signed on January 14, 1771. They were married on February 17 in the chapel of Zuylen Castle. After various visits and stays in Brussels and Paris, the couple arrived at Le Pontet in September 1771.

Belle van Zuylen became Isabelle de Charrière. Belle visited Zuylen and the Netherlands for the last time due to her father’s death in 1776. Her mother had already passed away in 1768. In Switzerland, she wrote most of her literary works, played music and composed, and met (famous) Swiss and French personalities.

Le Pontet in Colombier

Epilogue

The correspondence (in French) of Belle van Zuylen/Isabelle de Charrière is available in digital form. Her complete works (in French) have been collected in several volumes.

In Utrecht, she occupies a prominent place in the literary canon. She was elected the greatest Utrechter of all time in 2004 and has a place in the Pantheon of the Literature Museum in The Hague. Additionally, several literary prizes, streets and other places bear her name. The University of Paris even dedicated a chair to her in 2024!

The Belle van Zuylen Society/Isabelle de Charrière Association and the Huygens Institute are the main points of contact in the Netherlands.

Sources: Huygens Instituut, Correspondentie Belle van Zuylen; K. Verboeket, Slot Zuylen, Oud-Zuilen, Amsterdam, 2003; K. van Strien, Belle van Zuylen. Een leven in Holland, Soesterberg, 2019; J. Bujard et autres, ‘Le Manoir du Pontet à Colombier’, in la Nouvelle Revue neuchâteloise, Hiver 2002, No 76).

The Swiss National Day, Swissness and the sui generis European Union

The Swiss National Day, also known as the Bundesfeier or la Fête nationale suisse, has been celebrated annually on August 1 since 1891. The young Confederation, established in 1848 after a process spanning centuries, commemorated the (mythical) alliance of the first Eidgenossen of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden in 1291.

The Bundesbriefmuseum and the Forum Schweizer Geschichte in Schwyz, as well as the Landesmuseum in Zurich, provide insight into this realisation through words, images, and documentation.

Basel, celebration of the Swiss National Day, 1 August 2025

Looking back is important, necessary and meaningful. However, we live in the present, looking to the future. What today unites the 26 cantons and their diverse languages, cultures, religions, and economic systems? Despite these differences and sometimes conflicts, there is a unifying factor: the Swiss way of life, or Swissness.

Swiss life is a way of life, shaped over centuries. The Constitution of 1848, as amended and supplemented over time, is the legal and political representation of Swiss life at national, cantonal, and municipal levels.

Bern, Bundeshaus,/Palais fédéral, the 26 cantons 

The Constitution

Direct democracy, subsidiarity and the federal organisation of the country are expressions of Swiss life, i.e. the way the inhabitants organise and want to live their daily lives. The citizens and the cantons are thus the key figures.  This is also reflected in the preamble and Articles I and II of the Constitution:

The Swiss People and the Cantons,

mindful of their responsibility towards creation,

resolved to renew their alliance to strengthen liberty, democracy, independence and peace in a spirit of solidarity and openness towards the world,

determined to live together with mutual consideration and respect for their diversity,

conscious of their common achievements and their responsibility towards future generations,

and in the knowledge that only those who use their freedom remain free, and that the strength of a people is measured by the well-being of its weakest members,

adopt the following Constitution:

Art 1: The People and the Cantons of Zurich, Bern, Lucerne, Uri, Schwyz, Obwalden and Nidwalden, Glarus, Zug, Fribourg, Solothurn, Basel Stadt and Basel Landschaft, Schaffhausen, Appenzell Ausserrhoden and Appenzell Innerrhoden, St. Gallen, Graubünden, Aargau, Thurgau, Ticino, Vaud, Valais, Neuchâtel, Geneva, and Jura form the Swiss Confederation.

Art 2 (1):  The Swiss Confederation shall protect the liberty and rights of the people and safeguard the independence and security of the country.

2)  It shall promote the common welfare, sustainable development, internal cohesion and cultural diversity of the country.

3) It shall ensure the greatest possible equality of opportunity among its citizens.

4) It is committed to the long-term preservation of natural resources and a just and peaceful international order.

Landesmuseum, Affiche of the Constitution of 1848

Following the introduction of the mandatory referendum in 1848, the optional referendum and the People’s Initiative were introduced in 1874 and 1891, respectively, and citizens and cantons have the final say. These far-reaching powers did not emerge overnight, but had a centuries-long history in several cantons.

Even the oligarchically governed cantons of the ancien régime changed their minds after many (internal) discussions and partly because of the experiences in the French era (1798-1813). This development was not self-evident, but was the result of a political movement partly inspired by the “Landsgemeinde” and the French era.

Geneva, 25 September 2022, an optional referendum

Conflicts between and within the cantons were high after 1815. Still, in the end, as the preamble and Articles 1 and 2 also guarantee, the citizens and cantons ultimately have the final say on federal powers, freedom, democracy, independence, and peace.

1848-2025

The Constitution of 1848 and its amendments also form the basis for the “Swiss Wirtschaftswunder”, the rock-hard Swiss franc, quality education (both university and vocational), a militia system, solidarity, and a system of social security.

Fasnacht 2023, Laterne. The 26 cantons and the commitment of their citizens. 

This system, with 26 different cantons (the EU has 27 nations), can only work if the citizens also experience, support, and shape it. And they do. It, in turn, has to do with the country’s mentality in economy, education, culture and society: hard-working, innovative, creative, with an open eye to foreign countries in terms of exports, studying, emigrants, travelling and working and, at the political level, focused on consultation, compromise, respect and tolerance.

Nimwegen, Bastion Museum, model of a wooden raft. Swiss merchants, emigrants, mercenaries and globetrotters  used this transport from Basel to Amsterdam for centuries. A witness from 1611: “Als ich 1611 im Früling mit Gottes hilff auff meinem Handwerck zu wandern auf den Rhenistrom hinabgezogen und zu Amsterdam angelangt, allda auch einen Meister gefunden“, a text from the Reiseberichte (1624) by Samuel Braun from Bazel, used in the roman from Helen Liebendörfer, Die Abenteuer des Samuel Braun. Als Schiffarzt nach Afrika (Basel 2023)

Currant picker or European and world citizen

Many times, the country is labelled “Currant Picker”, especially by the EU and its supporters in Switzerland. However, who is picking the “currants”? Some 400,000 French, Italians and Germans work as border crossers (frontaliers) in this small country!

Additionally, hundreds of thousands of EU citizens work and reside in Switzerland. By comparison, far fewer Swiss work in the Netherlands, France, Italy or Germany. The country has the world’s best vocational education (Berufsbildung), universities, research programs, and institutes. On five continents, many Swiss are active in NGOs, businesses, education, research, or as globetrotters.

Andeer, Hinterrhein

Citizens live literally and figuratively close to nature. In all cantons and municipalities, “Bio” and respect for nature have been at the forefront for generations. Clean “white energy” accounts for about 50 per cent of energy needs.

However, the Court of Human Rights is making a fuss by issuing a factually and legally absurd judgment on an issue orchestrated by Greenpeace (apart from other activist rulings).

Zinal, Alpage de Cottier

The country has built costly relevant European transport links at its own expense, on time and without too much corruption. However, the EU and its member states have ignored agreements on this transport system, as well as the binding results of a referendum (1994).

The European Union

What binds citizens of countries within the European Union together? What do Finns have in common with Greeks, Irish with Bulgarians and, who knows, in a few years, Turks with Swedes? Only the top-down concept and centralism, with its bureaucracy and “one size fits all” approach, keep this Union going.

But the democratic, cultural, social and societal basis for the ever-expanding EU is lacking. Moreover, this Union is unable to reform itself, and its immigration, euro, or foreign policies (if any) degenerate into a morass of discord, failure, and rhetoric.

That works as long as interests and concerns are shared, but ambitions, rhetoric and words cannot eliminate fundamental differences. No sensible person is opposed to the European Union, with its necessary, well-functioning, and relevant cooperation.

Scaremongering and fear (Internal Market, Trump, Russia, China, and so on) are not a solid basis for presenting unrealistic European federal ambitions as “necessary,” when intergovernmental cooperation is often more effective, transparent, and, above all, democratic.

Laterne Fasnacht 2025, America today

Parallel Societies, Human Rights and Opt-Out

EU countries Denmark and Poland openly oppose Europe’s failing (if any) immigration policy. However, Switzerland does adopt it in the proposed treaty without an opt-out.

This ignores that obtaining German, Dutch, Portuguese or Spanish citizenship is relatively easy for (too) many immigrants, who, however, also have access to Switzerland because of this (EU) pass.

Many times, getting an employment contract with (obscure) companies of widely spread family or friend relations in Switzerland is not a problem. It is also somewhat naive to assume that an employment contract in itself is a serious condition for obtaining a residence permit in this context.

Family reunification is also open-ended and will create surprises. And why should there be an automatic right to a permanent status after only five years? Ten years is the minimum to get an  (minimum) understanding of the complex Swiss society, cantons, languages and cultures. And even then.

Treaty of the Union monétaire latine, 23 December 1865. Source: Wikipedia

Conclusion

In the relationship with the EU, the focus should not be on the text of a treaty, but on Swiss life, as expressed in the preamble and Articles 1 and 2 of the Constitution.

Moreover, a sui generis organisation like the EU did not exist at all in 1848. Due to the limitations of direct democracy, subsidiarity, and federal design in the envisaged new treaty with the EU, the legislator also had in mind the 1957 “sui generis” EU, and thus the double majority of cantons and citizens (as stated in the preamble and articles 1 and 2).

The Euro-CHF exchange rate 2002-2025. source: www.schweizer-franken.eu

Words are patient and all too often the EU has shown itself not to be a trustworthy partner (e.g. Horizon exclusion, NEAT, Stock Exchange listings and other threats) or the Court of Justice of the European Union ignores violations of European law due to political motives (“Dublin”, euro or state aid and monopolies (EDF) of France) or is downright activist and politically minded.

In contrast, the European Commission has sued the publicly owned Dutch National Railway Company, Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS), due to its monopoly position. A bad omen for Europe’s best public transport (the SBB, Postauto and the Schweizer Salines).

It is somewhat naive to assume that practice will be different with a new treaty. On the contrary, despite sweet-talking texts, reality will ultimately prevail over the text.

Moreover, Switzerland’s involvement in legislation discussions at the EU-level is somewhat different from decision-making, and the Dutch experience has shown that even codecision at the EU-level is very relative (3% influence) and “debtors” have created, for example, a French-Italian currency and a French-Italian European Central Bank in violation of the EU treaty.

The treaty with the EU should therefore not be about immigration as such (fortunately, Switzerland has been an immigration country for many generations), but rather about preventing the emergence of parallel societies, as seen in other EU countries. This is a constitutional and human right for the country’s inhabitants (citizens and non-citizens).

The Mont Terri Rock Laboratory, St. Ursanne

Switzerland is a cosmopolitan society in terms of mentality, economy, immigration, education, culture, research and population composition. The country was at the centre of Europe long before the creation of the EU and has been and remains a loyal European player in many areas. While maintaining its traditions, including direct democracy, subsidiarity, and a federal organisation, these principles form the foundation of its existence and functioning.

Own initiative and accountability, combined with the militia system, solidarity, and consideration for the minority and weaker, form essential pillars in this. Even monasteries flourish in this system!

Switzerland should not “Europeanise” further, but the EU would do well to acknowledge and accept, in several respects, that the country is what it is: not an island, not a paradise, but (for now) an economically, democratically, and socially stable oasis in the heart of Europe. Perhaps the EU should become more ‘Swiss’ in some aspects.

And besides, this EU, due to its flawed democracy, innovative capacities, absence of the World’s top universities, high debts, centralism, lack of subsidiarity, and weak currency, would never be admitted to the Swiss Confederation as the 27th canton. Not Switzerland is the problem, but in (too) many aspects, this EU is!

However, Switzerland would do well to open up to European and international cooperation on defence. Unlike Swiss life, which is characterised by direct democracy, subsidiarity, and federalism, neutrality can be put into perspective in the current context. This is especially true since Switzerland was not entirely neutral from 1940 to 1945, nor during the Cold War.

The Rhine near Eglisau, frontier with Germany 1939-1945

Monasteries as a traditional Swiss source of innovation and entrepreneurship

Many monasteries in Switzerland have been dissolved over the centuries, particularly after the Reformation, during the French occupation (1798-1813) and in the 19th century. Some were demolished, others were given a new purpose, usually while preserving the complex.

St. Urban

Muri

Despite secularisation in the 20th century and the dwindling number of monks and nuns, functioning monasteries can still be found in unexpected places, such as the countryside, towns, and villages. St. Johann in Müstair (Canton Graubünden), Mariastein near Metzerlen (Canton Solothurn), Bigorio (Canton Ticino), Einsiedeln (Canton Obwalden) and Notkersegg (Canton St. Gallen) are just a few examples.

What these monasteries have in common is their creativity, innovation, drive, and openness, while preserving their traditions and religious practices. In a way, they symbolise Switzerland. Two monasteries can be mentioned as examples.

The Benedictine monastery of Fischingen

The Benedictine monastery of Fischingen (canton of Thurgau) on the River Murg, not far from the old residence of the abbot of the monastery of St. Gallen in Wil, was founded in 1138. In the 13th century, the complex had no fewer than 150 monks and 120 nuns at the time!.

The Counts of Toggenburg, as their successors the Habsburgs and in 1460 the Swiss Confederation (conquest of Thurgau) were the patrons. The monastery survived the Reformation and even became a centre of support for the Counter-Reformation after the Council of Trent (1545-1563).

The first Romanesque monastery church dates back to 1144, but after several fires and a Gothic remodelling in 1440, the current Baroque church was consecrated in 1687. Other buildings in the vast complex were built around 1750.

The Idda Chapel is an essential stop on the pilgrimage route from Constance to Einsiedeln. The chapel is named after Idda, the wife of the Count of Toggenburg, the patron saint of the monastery. She lived in the 12th century and, after her husband’s death, spent years as a hermit near the monastery.

What the French occupying forces were unable to achieve between 1798 and 1813, the canton of Thurgau achieved by decree in 1848: the monastery was dissolved, and the property was privatised. However, private involvement plays a vital role in this bottom-up organised country in all cantons.

A Catholic association purchased the monastery complex in 1879 and established it as an orphanage, overseen by Benedictine monks. On 28 August 1977, the monastery was ceremoniously reopened as an independent Benedictine priory.

 

   

Of significance in this story, however, is the monastery’s current purpose. Today, there are still four monks aged between 60 and 80. As in many monasteries, there is little interest in entering, and yet the abbey has found a creative solution to at least ensure its physical survival.

A small part of the complex is reserved for the monks. The remaining part, however, has been converted into an impressive hotel, restaurant and seminar complex. There are also various other businesses, including the brewery, sawmill and joinery: tradition, innovation and entrepreneurial spirit of a monastery in a small village in Thurgau.

 The Cistercian monastery of Magdenau

The Magdenau convent (canton of St. Gallen, municipality of Degersheim) was founded in the 13th century. Before that, the first nuns formed a loose community in St. Gallen. They were called ‘Beguines’.
The local knight Rudolf II. Giel von Glattburg and his wife Gertrud donated land to this group in 1244. The Abbot of St. Gallen then gave them the chapel of St. Verena and more land in Magdenau.

The St. Verena Church

With the agreement of the Abbot of St. Gallen, the knight Rudolf Giel and his wife, Gertrud, donated the church of St. Verena and the associated farms and estates to the women.
Pope Innocent IV placed the monastery under his protection and incorporated it into the Cistercian order in 1250. The abbots of Wettingen assisted the monastery in ecclesiastical and economic matters. The monastery operated successfully and acquired favourably located vineyards near Weinfelden. These were only sold after several poor harvests in 1912.
Despite crises and setbacks, the abolition (1529-1532), state supervision (1798-1813 and 1829-1842) and the forced sale of many estates, the nuns were able to continue their monastic life to this day.
Not only have they maintained the beautiful complex for centuries, but they were also economically active in many areas (in addition to their religious and social activities). They were bookbinders, teachers and textile entrepreneurs.
They also managed forests, a sawmill, a mill, and timber production, and continue to do so in cooperation with entrepreneurs.

They created four ponds to store energy, ran several mills and a brickworks, and managed the forests, paths, and meadows. They planted numerous fruit trees, ran a monastery pharmacy and were beekeepers. They managed their business with determination and were socially committed. Even today, a farm, a sawmill and the Rössli inn are still attached to the convent.

Today, the nuns cultivate a natural monastery garden and offer overnight stays and guided tours. They are both religious and worldly-minded, and, together with their staff, are committed to a healthy balance of spirituality and tradition, innovation, and sustainability.

A Swiss story in the Roffla Gorge

For centuries, the Swiss have built bridges in the most challenging locations, tamed rivers, and constructed tunnels and railways through the heart of the mountains. One of the most remarkable initiatives, however, is the construction of a rock gallery under the Rhine, the Hinterrhein, at the beginning of the 20th century. It resembles, to a certain extent, the creation of the ice caves in the Rhone glacier near the Furka Pass!

The inn in the Roffla gorge has existed for many generations. For centuries, the road that runs past the inn was the only way to cross the Alps, either via the Splügen Pass or the St. Bernardino Pass, to Italy. The inn was therefore a rest stop and accommodation for people, carriages and horses. It provided the family with a good, albeit modest, income.

The museum in the Gasthaus

Maria (1869-1941) and Christian Pitschen-Melchior (1862-1940). Collection: museum in the Gasthaus

When the Gotthard railway was opened at the end of the 19th century, much of the traffic shifted. The Christian Pitschen-Melchior family soon had only a minimal income, and so they decided to emigrate to America. The parents stayed and continued to care for the few guests and run the small farm.

Collection: Museum Gasthaus

Once they arrived in New York, they found work. The family grew larger and larger, but even with the children, they did not feel comfortable in New York. Christian Pitschen-Melchior also worked for a time as a servant for a wealthy Englishman.
He travelled through America with him, including a trip to Niagara Falls. He realised that a waterfall was a popular destination and that it could be a source of income.

After this trip, he often thought about this waterfall because he knew that there was also a waterfall at home in the Roffla Gorge, but he could only hear it because there was no path leading into the gorge. When his parents wrote to him to say that they could no longer run the inn for reasons of age, the emigrants decided to return home.

Illustration from the book ‘M. Rettich, Die Geschichte vom Wasserfall, Glarus 2015’. Pictured, however, is a wood drill instead of a hand drill, which is about 1 metre long and operated by two people.

Once they arrived home, they began working to make their way into the gorge, initially only by drilling and hammering! Between 1907 and 1914, they worked in the gorge, detonating approximately 8,000 explosive charges. However, it required a great deal of effort and strength to hammer the blast holes into the hard rock.

In 1914, a breakthrough was achieved, and a gallery was created beneath the Hinterrhein waterfall. Over the next few years, more and more people came to the inn and paid to visit the impressive Roffla Gorge with its rock gallery under the Rhine. For a few years now, the winter months have also been used to produce new textiles for the inn or sale to visitors.

This story is also a Swiss story: emigration, the search for work abroad (such as countless entrepreneurs, confectioners, soldiers in foreign armies, or governesses for the children of wealthy families), homesickness, entrepreneurship, and innovation.

Christian Pitschen-Melchior, his wife, their children and the generations that followed deserve to be mentioned. After all, where else in Switzerland, Germany, Liechtenstein, Austria or the Netherlands was it possible to walk under the Rhine as early as 1914?

(Source and further information: Gasthaus Rofflaschucht)

The Romansh language and culture. Vallader in Scuol and FESTIVALET

The annual Vallader course began on July 21 in Scuol (Canton of Graubünden). The organisers, the Lia Rumantscha and the Uniun dals Grischs,  welcomed over 150 participants this year.

The Romansh language and culture are experiencing increasing interest in Switzerland and abroad. The annual National Week of the Romansh Language (Eivna rumantscha) also highlights engagement.

Courses in other Romansh idioms (Puter, Surselvan, Surmeiran, or Sutselvan) are also organised in different places in Graubünden, not only by the Lia Rumantscha but also by other organisations.

The Lia Rumantscha also assists in establishing local Romansh organisations in Switzerland. There are currently organisations in Basel, Lucerne, Bern, Winterthur, and St. Gallen/Appenzell.

That the Romansh language also lives outside Graubünden was also evident this year at the first Romansh festival outside the original language area. FESTIVALET attracted hundreds of visitors in May with music, lectures, poetry slams, documentaries, and various excellent Romansh choirs. Perhaps Romansh will one day become the Esperanto of Switzerland. They only have to figure out which idiom or Rumanstch Grischun!

The Lia Rumantscha (in collaboration with the Union dals Grischs) organises another Vallader course in St. Mustair from October 6 to 10.

(Source and further information: Lia Rumantscha)

Impressions from FESTIVALET

The participants of the Poetry Slam

 

Short History of the Alpine Horn

Like cheese, chocolate and fondue, the Alphorn belongs to Switzerland (and Austria and southern Germany). The horn must have a minimum length and a corresponding maximum diameter to blow a musically useful (interesting) range in this scale.

Only one or two notes of different pitches can be blown on short horns (e.g. a hollow animal horn). There is no clear separation between the pitches with long horns, such as the alpine horn. An “alphorn” means a long, straight wooden horn bent at the bottom.

Adelheid Risi, Alphorn, 2024. Collection: Textilmuseum St. Gallen

Some writings refer to “alphorns” already in use before 1500. However, these accounts and stories were often only written down two or three hundred years after the fact.

Names such as bucina, tuba, litui, lituum alpinum, cornua alpinum and other indications were used for these ‘alphorns’. It is not certain whether these names referred to the Alphorn.

The account book of 1527 of the former monastery St. Urban (canton of Lucerne) is the oldest known written source, “Einem Walliser mit Alphorn”.

Conrad Gessner (1516-1565) describes the Alphorn in his “De raris et admirandis herbis” from 1556. He writes that the instruments consist of two curved and hollowed-out pieces of wood firmly connected with willow poles. They are 330-340 cm long.

The altarpiece of the chapel in Rohrmoo, near Tiefenbach (Allgäu, Bavaria), from 1568, depicts an “alpine horn player” with a length that corresponds to that mentioned by Gessner.

Basel, 1 August 2023

Swiss alphorn players were conscripted as musicians in foreign military service in the seventeenth century. In the winter, alpine shepherds entered the cities to earn money as street musicians on alpine or shepherd horns.

Alphorns are made in different ways. In the past, the alphorn was carved from a pine tree with a curved end. Nowadays, they are made in special workshops. The latest manufacturing processes use computer-controlled machines.

(Bron: Hans-Jürg Sommer, Die Geschichte des Alphorns, www.alphornmusik.ch).

Sent, the highest Engadiner Church Tower and the Alberto Giacometti Museum

Sent (Lower Engadin/ Unterengadin, Canton of Graubünden) was first mentioned in 930. It has been the official name since 1879.

In 1572, the reformer and chronicler Durich Chiampell (1510-1582) mentioned more than 300 houses and around 1000 inhabitants, the largest village in the Engadin and just as many as there are today.

The Reformation also left its mark. Today, about 80% of the population is reformed. The village church San Lurench (St. Lorenzo) was built in 1496. The neo-Gothic tower replaced 1898 the Romanesque tower from 1250. The ruins of the church of San Pedro (St. Peter) are a late Romanesque structure dating back to 1173.

In 1499 and 1622, the Austrians destroyed the village. After the Bündner Wirren (1618-1639) of the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), Sent experienced a peaceful development (apart from fires in 1748, 1823, 1911 and 1921).

The village centre and the many beautiful Engadiner houses date from the reconstruction between 1622 and 1650. Only the Sala/la Motta district was completely rebuilt after 1921.

  

 Alberto Giacometti Museum

The museum is housed in Pensiun Adlier Sent. The exhibition shows around two hundred graphic works created by Alberto Giacometti (1901-1966) from the 1930s to 1965. It is probably the most complex and complete show of its kind worldwide.

The collection also includes several scarce and unedited trial prints and works that have been printed after his death. An almost complete collection of his artist books is also on display.

The photographer, publisher and artist Ernst Scheidegger (1923-2016) was a great friend of Alberto Giacometti and documented him and his work in photographs and films over many years.

While the entire photo collection is not on display, a significant portion is accessible to visitors. In addition to Giacometti’s works, the exhibition also features several pieces by his brother Diego Giacometti (1902-1985), including works in bronze and a tapestry.

Vallader

Romansh (Vallader) is the spoken language, but everyone also understands German. The hamlets of Sur, En, Crusch, Sinestra and Zuort also belong to Sent. In 2015, Ardez, Ftan, Guarda, Scuol, Sent, and Tarasp merged into Scuol, the largest municipality in Switzerland in terms of area.

(Source: www.sent.ch).

The ruins of San Peder Church

The Sculpture Garden of Not Vital (1948)

Other Impressions