The Pontifical Swiss Guard

The Vatican’s Swiss Guard (Pontificia Cohors Helvetica) expands from 110 to 135 men.  Therefore the small army is looking for new recruits:  these must be Catholic, male, unmarried and of Swiss nationality.

Pratteln, Galerie Beyeler, exhibition ´Schweizer Garde´, 2019. Photo: TES.

The Guard was founded in 1506. It is the only foreign military organization Swiss citizens can join today.

Andrea Aacchi, Jan Miel, Filippo Gagliardi, The Church Il Gesù  Rome, 1640. Collection Nazionali d’Arte Antica di Roma. Exhibition ‘Baroque. Age of Contrasts’ National Museum Zurich

Detail: The Swiss Guard

Bern, Apostolische Nuntiatur. Photo: Nonciature – Conférence des évêques Suisses (eveques.ch)

Foundation for the Renovation of the Barracks of the Swiss Guard

The Foundation for the Renovation of the barracks of the Swiss Guards was founded in 2016. The foundation (La Fondation pour la Rénovation de la Caserne de la Garde Suisse Pontificale au Vatican/ Die Stiftung für die Renovation der Kaserne der Päpstlichen Schweizergarde im Vatikan) undertakes fundraising activities to finance the project.

The Swiss Guard. National Museum Zurich

Galauniform Zwitserse Garde, c. 1820. Collectie: Rätisches Museum, Chur.

La Garde Suisse, gala uniform, 20 August 2022 in Lugano. Photo: TES.

The Albula Pass and its History

The Albula Pass (Canton of Grisons) has been an important trade route and strategic pass since the Confederation conquered the Italian territories in the Veltlin region around 1500.

, transported wine from Italy and salt, grains and rice from Tyrol with donkeys, horses and mules. To the south, they sold cattle, dairy products, ores and metals from Bergün (Bravuogn in Romanic) and Filisur.

A  postal service was established in 1548. It also transported people in diligence, large carriages pulled by six or eight horses, over the pass. The French king, who had been an ally of the Confederation of thirteen cantons and their allies, including the Freistaat der Drei Bünde, today’s Graubünden, initiated the postal service to the Republic of Venice in that year.

Although the Splügen and Septimer passes also grew in importance, the Albula pass remained a vital traffic route for people, mail and goods. In 1866, the four-metre-wide road between Bergün and Le Punt in Upper Engadine was completed. The journey from Chur to St. Moritz took from then on ‘only’ fourteen hours. The Albula railway, in 1903, shortened the trip to a few hours.

 

Landwasserviaduct, Filisur. Photo: TES

Due to the ban on cars in the canton, it was not until 1925 that cars were allowed to use the pass. The Albulabahn, the famous Landwasserviaduct at Filisur and the almost six-kilometre-long Albulatunnel have been registered as UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 2008. Today, the Albula Pass is primarily a tourist route and a pass for local travel.

The Albula Pass was part of the defensive line, known as the Reduit, in the Alps during the Second World War (1939-1945), under the name Sperre Albula. Every pass in the canton was a fortress of rocks, bunkers and stone obstacles during this period.

A Last Farewell by Otto Frank

The section’ Latest News’ contains the last sign of life and the last news of the Frank family to the outside world. Otto Frank (1889-1980) wrote on 4 July 1942 to his mother Alice Frank-Stern (1865-1953) and his sister Helene Frank (1893-1986) in Basel: Seid doch in keinem Fall beunruhigt, wenn Ihr wenig von uns hört”.  On July 6, 1942, the family went into hiding. The message is eighty years old but still topical.

The Frank Family

The married couple Otto and Edith Frank-Elias (1903-1945) and their two children, Margot Betti (1926-1945) and Anne(lies) Marie Frank (1929-1945),had  lived in Amsterdam since 1933. Two of Otto’s brothers, Robert (1886-1953) and Herbert (1891-1987,) and his sister Helene (Leni, 1893-1986), had lived in Basel since 1929. They had founded the Opektapectine company in Switzerland.

Otto grew up in Frankfurt am Main (Germany). In 1914, there was no indication that 19 years later, he would have to leave his homeland. He and his brothers Robert and Herbert had bravely defended their Heimat in the First World War (1914-1918).

After a relatively prosperous economic period in the Weimar Republic from 1925 to 1929, the Wall Street Crash ended the bank of Michael Frank (1851-1909), Otto’s father. The crash also began the Nazi party’s rise to power. After January 31 1933, Otto foresaw what was to come. Otto chose Amsterdam to open a branch of the Opekta (Obstpektin aus dem Apfel) company. It was a fatal choice, but nobody could have predicted that in 1933.

The Netherlands and Switzerland

Margot and Anne quickly integrated and spoke Dutch without an accent. They spent the winter and summer holidays in Sils-Maria (Upper Engadine, Canton Graubünden) or Adelsboden, Canton Bern).

From 1938, Otto tried unsuccessfully to get a visa to Cuba or America. His many requests were not granted. On May 15 1940, the Netherlands capitulated, and the persecution of the Jews began.

Margot received the call for transport in early July 1942. Otto realised that it was time to go into hiding. Everyone knew about their intensive contact with Switzerland. Otto pretended to the outside world that he was fleeing to Switzerland. The other people in hiding were Hermann van Pels (1898-1944), his wife Auguste van Pels (1900-1945), their son Peter van Pels (1926-1945) and Fritz Pfeffer (1889-1944).

The Annex (Het Achterhuis)

Only a small group of helpers, employees of his company and their relatives, knew the real destination: the secret room in his company’s building at Prinsengracht 263 in Amsterdam. These heroes were Miep Gies (1909-2010) and Jan Gies (1905-1993), Victor Kugler (1900-1981), Johannes Kleiman (1896-1953), Johan Voskuijl (1892-1945) and his daughter Bep Voskuijl (1919-1983).

Anne was given a diary in 1942 and started writing. A radio broadcast by Radio Orange on the BBC in 1944 inspired her to change her editorial style. She re-edited her story as a literary testimony. Since then, two versions of the diary have existed.  The second version was intended for the outside world. Anne wrote her last contribution on August 1 1944, after many hopeful days following D-Day.

The Diary

Only Otto survived the war. Miep Gies gave him the diary on his return to Amsterdam. It was not until months after the war that he received the news that his two daughters and wife had not survived. He emigrated to Basel soon afterwards.

After much deliberation, reading and rereading, he published the diary in the Netherlands in 1950. At the time, few people in the Netherlands were interested in the sad fate of Anne and the Jews in general. People wanted to forget and look forward.

The German edition appeared in 1952. However, the breakthrough came with the American editio, which was adapted intor a play in 1955 and a film in 1959. Although the diary appeared infreely adapted scriptst in the theatre and cinema, Anne and her diary became world-famous.

In 1963, Otto founded the Anne Frank Fonds (www.anne-frank.ch) in Basel. Others have continued this NGO from 1980 to the present day. Anne often visited Switzerland in the 1930s, visiting her uncles and aunts in Basel for winter and summer holidays. Would Anne have been happy with the seat of the Anne Frank Fonds in Basel? We will never know, but the treatment of Jewish refugees is not a glorious chapter in the country’s history.

Neutrality

The Swiss authorities did not recognise Jews as political refugees, and around 25,000 men, women and children were sent back to the border to certain death. That approximately the same number were allowed to stay does not alter this fact. It is a black page in the history of the country of the Red Cross and humanitarian aid. 1871, the country received around 80,000 French soldiers and welcomed almost 70,000 Ukrainian refugees in 2022.

There were extenuating circumstances, however. The aggressive and ruthless dictators could invade at any moment, and there was a lot of poverty and unemployment in Switzerland. All democracies had closed their borders to Jews on the eve of the Second World War. The European anti-Semitic mentality was omnipresent, and less information and foreign experience were available.

Moreover, there were many brave (police) officials, citizens, men, women and children who did allow Jewish refugees to pass through and shelter them. Public opinion did not agree with the restrictive policy, but there was press censorship because of the state of emergency and little came out into the open. Fear of dictators was and is a bad advisor—a topical lesson concerning the present-day neutrality discussion.

Conclusion

Switzerland also has a war past. Since 199,0, this has been the subject of much debate and publication. With today’s knowledge, it is easy to make judgments.

However, the politicians did not want to, and could not annoy the surrounding ruthless dictatorships too much. After France’s rapid capitulation in 1940, Germany did not have a military necessity to invade the country, but Swiss politicians and generals could never be certain.

The stakes were high. The policy of making compromises and giving in on the one hand but building up a strong defence (the reduite in the Alps), on the other hand, seemed reasonable enough in these dangerous days for Switzerland as a nation. The outcome of a German invasion was sure, but the costs had to be as high as possible so that the aggressor preferred the benefits of a neutral country.

The discussion is still ongoing. However, Switzerland, its politicians and citizens did not distinguish themselves from other neutral countries, such as Sweden, or governments, citizens and industries in the occupied countries.

The current exhibition in the National Museum (Landesmuseum) in Zurich has the theme ‘Anne Frank und die Schweiz‘, Anne Frank and Switzerland (June 9 to November 6 2022).

The Saffron Village of Mund

There is always something to discover in Switzerland. For example, every hamlet, village and town has its particularity, the village of Mund (canton of Valais). In Gondo (Kanton Valais), there was a real gold rush in the nineteenth century, but in Mund, the (culinary) precious Saffron, the ‘Queen of Plants’, has been cultivated for centuries. Iran is the home country and the undisputed market leader in this field, but Mund also has a reputation.

Mund is located at an altitude of 1,200 metres in the middle of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Jungfrau-Aletsch, on the right side of the Rhone Valley, not far from Naters and Brig.

Saffron has been cultivated in Switzerland since the 14th century, but nowadays, only in Mund. In an area of two hectares, the harvest in September and November yields approximately two kilograms of pure Saffron per year. Per kilo, no less than 130,000 petals are needed!

Due to climatic conditions (lots of sun, sufficient rain and morning dew) and the soil conditions, the aroma is exceptional. It is not only the Queen of Plants but, per gram, more precious than gold!

The Saffron Museum (Safranmuseum) in Mund and the Safranlehrpfad tell the history of this unique plant in Valais and its properties in scents and colours.

Source and Further information: www.belalp.ch  en de Safranzunft Mund.

Two Thousand Years Geneva

Geneva is more than a city of diplomacy, international organisations, markets, banks, the watch industry, and the lake’s fountain.

It was the first territory conquered and governed by the Romans (120 B.C.) in present-day Switzerland, one of the country’s first bishoprics, the capital of Calvinism, an independent republic until it was annexed by Napoleon in 1798 and incorporated into the Swiss Confederation in 1815. In short, a city with a millennia-old past and an interesting and varied (cultural) present.

Le Sentier culturel Vielle-Ville (The cultural path of the old town) traces two thousand years of history by an architectural, cultural and historical trail:

The Roman period and Christianity (the archaeological site of St Peter’s Cathedral);
The kings of Burgundy, the Merovingians and Carolingians, the county, the bishopric, the city, and the canton of Geneva (since 1815), the dukes of Savoy, and the famous Escalade, the Reformation, and the Musée de la Réforme.

The Roman period

The Burgundian King

The City Hall, the seat of the cantonal and municipal political for more than half a millennium, the Place du Bourg-de-Four, the birthplace of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Maison Tavel, the Museum of the Zoubov Foundation, the Barbier-Mueller Museum, Jean Calvin’s house (the house he lived in was demolished in 1706 and replaced by the current building).

The Saint-Antoine Bastion, the Lutheran Church, the Baudet Tower, the Old Arsenal, the Reformers’ Wall, the Temple of Fustery, the Temple of Madeleine, the Abbey Foundation, the Museum of Art and History, the Graphic Arts Cabinet, and many ancient streets and squares. Et encore le Bastion Saint-Antoine, l’Église luthérienne and la tour Baudet.

The residence of Calvin

The auditorium of Calvin

Collège Calvin

The four Calvinist reformers Calvin, Farel, Beze et Knox, le mur des Réformateurs 

(Source and more information: www.geneve.ch).

The Rhone, the Arve and Neptune

La Madeleine

Le Temple de la Fusterie

Hans Rudolph Manuel Deutsch, the oldest realistic map of Geneva, around 1550. AEG Archives privées 247/1/91

Why Switzerland ?

Why Switzerland is the title of Jonathan Steinberg’s book (Cambridge, third edition, 2015). The book is a detailed study of seven centuries of history, politics, religion, culture, economy and values that have shaped the country and its cantons and made them what they are: not an island but an oasis in the middle of Europe, or with Steinberg’s words:

“Why Switzerland? consists of two parts: why is there Switzerland? And why should anybody else care? The answer to the first is clear and has been the main effort in this book: a detailed study of creating a unique and successful small state over seven centuries and how and why it has worked. The answer to the second is the other face of the answer to the first. This small country represents the most intensive and continuous experiment in the strengths and limits of democracy. Switzerland matters to everybody who prefers democracy”.

Vevey, 29 July 2019. Photo: TES

Stereotypes and facts

There are plenty of stereotypes and facts about Switzerland (and its inhabitants). Whenever the country makes it into the foreign press, it is invariably about the Jewish assets from the Second World War, the banking secrecy, black- or criminal money, the late introduction of suffrage for women (1971), the Minaret ban (2009) or the setting of quotas for emigrants (2014). Recently, the application of neutrality in the case of an indirect supply of weapons to Ukraine can be added.

This article does not deal with these facts. Still, it aims to place them within the context of centuries-old historical, social, and political developments, including direct democracy, the almost proverbial politeness in daily life, and respect for privacy.

Country of refuge

Switzerland was a country of emigration until 1848. At the same time, it has always been a place of refuge for (French) protestants or Huguenots, humanists and intellectuals from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries, revolutionaries and anarchists, on the one hand, monarchs and aristocrats on the other hand in the nineteenth century, pacifists, anti-war activists (the artistic movement Dada in Zurich, for example) and refugees from 1914 onwards.

In the 19th century, Austrian Chancellor Klemens von Metternich (1773-1859) referred to the country as a haven for republicans and anarchists. Switzerland was the black sheep of the surrounding European monarchies. There was even a possibility of an invasion to end its liberal policy. It never came to that because the country and its cantons (which ultimately decided on the right of residence) sometimes gave in to prevent further provocations.

Women’s suffrage 

The late introduction of women’s suffrage is also more complicated than the year 1971 suggests. Women could already study at Swiss universities as early as 1867, and they (and some men) already demanded suffrage. In 1869, Marie Vögtlin (1845-1916) became the first woman in Europe to pursue a medical education.

Emilie Kempin-Spyri (1853-1901), the niece of the writer Johanna Spyri (1827-1901), the author of Heidi (1881), obtained her doctorate in 1887, making her the first woman in Europe to hold the title of “Frau Doktor.”

Women were also involved in various societal organisations. Until 1918, their voting and legal status did not differ significantly from those of other European countries, except for the Nordic countries.

Marie Vögtlin (1845–1916). Foto: Wikipedia

Then came the First World War and the deployment of women as replacements for men in the war-faring nations. In 1918, this social position could not be reversed, and the governments introduced suffrage without a referendum.

Women had not replaced men in neutral Switzerland. There were, however, federal initiatives and referendums at the cantonal level on women’s suffrage. They failed in the (political) world and mindset of exclusively male voters and politicians at the cantonal and federal levels.

Would this outcome have been different in other countries? In addition, most (small and rural) cantons opposed this right at the national level until 1971 and, on one occasion, even until a ruling of the Supreme Court (Bundesgericht) in 1991.

After its introduction, however, the women took their position. The first female ‘president’ or prima inter pares in the national government was already there in 1999.

The number and quality of female politicians are also high. The legal status of (married) Swiss women was just as incapacitated as in other European countries until the 1950s and 1960s.

Jean-Baptiste Isabey (1767-1855), Congress of Vienna. Photo: Wikipedia

Neutrality

And then, Switzerland’s neutral relationship with Germany after France’s fall in June 1940. Switzerland was too restrictive in admitting Jewish refugees before and after 1940. The country remains ashamed today, despite the presence of ‘disobedient’ officials, citizens, and rescuers, as well as public opinion that rejected the policy. Switzerland was no exception to this restrictive policy either. The “J” in the passport of Jewish people from 1938 onwards at the border is, backwards-looking, unacceptable from a moral point of view and a (voluntary) sign of cowardice to please the neighbour.

The country and its factories (indirectly) supplied weapons to Germany, and Germany put its (looted and stolen) gold and money in Swiss bank accounts. But what was the alternative? Aggressive dictatorships surrounded the country. 

Although the country was heavily armed and would probably have put up fierce resistance in its Alpine fortress (Reduite), it was impossible to resist for long. The motto was to survive by compromising and pleasing. In this respect, Switzerland is no exception to other neutral countries (Sweden, for example) or the industries, collaboration and bureaucracies in occupied countries.

It is always easy to judge retrospectively. In any case, there has never been a relevant political movement with sympathy for the Italian dictator and his Irredentismo, nor in Ticino, nor for the German dictator and his Heim ins Reich in German-speaking Switzerland.

The French—and German-speaking Swiss were united in their rejection of German and Italian ambitions. Moreover, on 20 April 1939, Switzerland was the only country that did not send a formal delegation to the Führer’s birthday parade in Berlin. This was a protest against the invasion of Czechoslovakia in March 1939. From a moral standpoint, the country was not neutral.  

The neutrality is heavily debated because of the invasion of Ukraine. The public and parliamentary debates are in full swing. Neutrality is not a goal, and different circumstances require different applications.

The neutrality of 1815 is not the same as that of 1933-1945, 1948-1989, and 2022. The politicians will hopefully not make the same “J” mistake in 2022 in the expectation of pleasing another dictator, although a Swiss Lord Haw Haw (1906-1946) is on stage.

The Toblerones near Einsiedeln, canton of Schwyz, 1940. Photo: TES.

Banking secrecy

Handling the (unclaimed) Jewish assets after 1945 is related to the centuries-old banking secrecy. Many account holders and their families had not survived. Distant relatives were often unaware, and the banking secrecy, bureaucracy and legal issues prevented access to the accounts. Could it have been handled differently? Yes, but banking secrecy was sacrosanct and not written with this situation in mind. It also applies to today’s black money or assets of dictators and other criminals.

Pecunia non olet also applies to Switzerland. Many adjustments and reforms have already been made or are pending. Can it be done faster? Undoubtedly, Switzerland is no exception.

Referendum and People’s Initiative

It also applies to the outcomes of referendums or People’s Initiatives. Citizens are concerned about certain developments and can express their concerns directly in Switzerland. Is it always right? No, but neither are decisions made by professional politicians, let alone by ignoring problems or avoiding public and political debate.

The political organisation 

Direct democracy, the federal model, the decentralised organisation of the country, the unique Constitution of 1848 and its mandatory seven ministers, the Konkordanzsystem and the Zauberformul in forming the government, the special relationship between parliament and government and the equality of the first and the second chamber of the national parliament, the combination of the Majorzsystem or the election by an absolute majority of individuals in elections for the second chamber (senate) and the executive bodies of the cantons and municipalities, and the Proporzsystem or the proportional representation in elections for the municipal, cantonal and national (first chamber) parliaments, the annually rotating ‘president’ of the country or the primus/prima inter pares of the federal government are the basis of the political and social stability.

The citizen is sovereign.

However, the most critical asset of the Swiss model is the citizen. The citizen is the sovereign (except in a state of emergency) and, together with the cantons, is the founder of the Federation, the guardian of the Constitution and the supreme legislator unless powers have been transferred to the Federation by the citizens and the cantons, in which case there is still always the possibility of a binding referendum.

Their societal engagement reflects the political involvement of the citizens. It is expressed, among other things, in the functioning of the national, cantonal and municipal political and democratic institutions and the ‘Milizsystem‘, the respect for nature, farmers, artisans and (traffic) rules, politeness in daily life and the astonishing and impressive scientific, industrial and intellectual creativity and innovative power across the country.  

Conclusion

Steinberg writes:

“The Swiss have always found a way to deal with the threats to their way of life every century. They have done so because the determination to survive and preserve ‘Swissness’ has not depended on will but on a way of being, a set of values and habits so deeply ingrained that most Swiss are almost unaware of how powerful these values are.

Living together was more important than being right. Switzerland cannot be a model for other countries because its history cannot be repeated, but it can inspire other societies. For more than seven centuries, it has managed to face its problems, and in doing so, it has expanded, not contracted, the sphere of activity of the sovereign people”.

That is why Switzerland is the genuine democratic European Union of twenty-six (centuries-old) sovereign republics.

Espace Rousseau Neuchâtel

The Neuchâtel Public Library and University Library (La Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Neuchâtel) in the former Latin College (Collège latin) presents a world-famous exhibition dedicated to the writer and philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778).  

The former Latin College (Collège latin) in Neuchâtel. Photo: TES

Jean-Jacques Rousseau was one of the greatest thinkers of the Enlightenment and is still an “influencer” in literature, politics, and social issues with a varied but coherent number of works.

Three texts were bestsellers and a combination of literature and philosophy: La Nouvelle Héloïse (1761], Les Confessions (1765) and Les Rêveries du promeneur solitaire (1776).

In the Enlightenment, he advocated the reform of the political and social structures, education, morality, law, and religion.  His Sur les sciences et les arts (1750) and Discours sur l´origine et les fondements de l’inégalité parmi les hommes (1755)  made him famous.

The following works, however, were considered too controversial, such as Emile ou de l’éducation (1762) and Du Contrat social (1762). He was forced into exile in Neuchâtel, a Prussian principality (1707-1857).

Music has always played a significant role in Rousseau’s life and work. He proposed a new musical notation system (in 1742), wrote more than 400 articles on music for the ‘Encyclopédie’ of Denis Diderot (1713-1784) and Jean le Rond d’Alembert (1717-1783), composed operas, and was an active music copyist.

He developed a passion for botany during his stay (1762-1765) in Neuchâtel and the Island St. Peter in the Lake of Biel (Bielersee/lac de Bienne). He wrote several books about this topic and created a new system of describing plants, the pasigraphy of flora.

J.J. Rousseau, La botanique, printed in 1805, illustrated by P.J. Redouté.

Combining new technologies, archives and first editions of several of his writings, the Espace Rousseau Neuchâtel presents a journey through his life. It offers a better understanding of Rousseau’s relationship with his contemporaries and the influence of his work.

(See for further information also: Môtiers (the village of his stay in 1762): Musée Jean-Jacques Rousseau; Geneva (his place of birth), Maison Rousseau et littérature; the Island St. Peter (in September 1765 he fled to this island), Couvet (he became a citizen of the village on 1 January 1765) and in NeuchâteI (Musée d’arts et d’histoire and L’Association Jean-Jacques Rousseau).

Source: Espace Rousseau Neuchâtel

Erasmus in Concert in Basel

From 12 to 18 September 2022, the Hochrhein Music Festival will host the interdisciplinary festival “Erasmus Klingt! – Festival Lab”, highlighting the influence of Erasmus’ works on science and the arts.

Each edition focuses on one of his works. The theme of this event is Follia, inspired by one of his most famous works, “In Praise of Folly”. This book was first published in 1511 (in Latin under the title laus stultitiae) and immediately became a bestseller on the eve of the Reformation.

The themes of “Follia (or Folia)”, madness, foolishness or folly, reflect the contents of the concerts.

Concert Programme and further information: Erasmus klingt! – Festival Lab (erasmus-klingt.ch)

La douce Suisse

A walk between Auvernier and Bevaix (canton of Neuchâtel) on the banks of the lake leads to vineyards, magnificent manors, little beaches and hills.

The medieval abbey of Bevaix stands high on a hill, converted into a farm in the 16th century, after the reformation around 1530.

The Jura

The vineyards are lined with rose bushes, the best indicator of insect pests affecting vineyards.

Villages and towns have retained much of their charm, Bevaix, Cortaillod, Colombier, Corcelles, Cormondrèche, Boudry, Auvernier, for example.

The hiking and biking trails lead you to the most beautiful places on this less-than-fifteen-kilometre route.

Source: the Jura and Three Lakes Region

Boudry and Boudry Castle

The baye of Auvernier, the lake of Neuchâtel and the Mont Blanc 

Cormondrèche