Martina, Vinadi and Austria

Martina, located on the left bank of the river Inn, is the border town with Austria. The old inn, dating back to 1602, remains a reminder of the historic toll between the Independent Free State of the Three Leagues (Freistaat der Drei Bünde, 1524-1798) and Austria. Martina (Martinsbrück) symbolises the history of this region.

The old border at the time of the old Confederation of Twenty-two cantons of 1815 was a few kilometres further away at Vinadi (Weinberg).

In 1848, the year of the foundation of the new Constitution and the present-day Swiss Confederation, the border post was moved to Martina.

However, the left bank of the river Inn remains Swiss territory until Vinadi. The old castle Altfinstermünz, located on the right bank of the Inn, is a medieval Austrian (or Tyrolean) toll.

Tschlin and surroundings

Anyone entering the village of Tschlin (Canton of Graubünden) will come across the sign “Die schönsten Schweizer Dörfer”, the most beautiful Swiss villages.

The village is situated at an altitude of 1,550 in the middle of the terraced landscape of Lower Engadin (Unterengadin) with a view of the river Inn (En in the Romansh language), the National Park, mountains and forests.

The village is home to an excellent beer brewery and an active cultural centre (Somalgors 74).

The village has not always been on the lucky side of history, however. The region has been a battleground for a long time. The village was destroyed several times in the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries. Fires have also burned the village to ashes. The last major fire was in 1856.

Tschlin appears in documents in the twelfth century. The village forms the ‘Plan’ with the surrounding hamlets nowadays:

San Niclà (and its Romanesque church), Strada (and the museum Stamparia), Chaflur. S-Chadatsch, Chasura, Chaflur, Sclamischot, Martina (the customs town), Vinadi (the former customs town) and Acla da Fans.

The Engadine houses, the Sgraffito, the many springs and the terraces justify the qualification of one of the most beautiful villages of the country.

(Source and further information: Tschlin).

 

   

Stampa and Inn

The Dutch Conductor Willem Mengelberg in Zuort

The village of Ramosch and the hamlets of Vnà, Zuort, Seraplana, Griosch and Raschvella in Lower Engadin (Unterengadin, canton of Graubünden) are situated amidst centuries-old terraces for arable farming (see also under nature).

The area has been inhabited since 4500 BC. The dry climate with the least rain in Switzerland and the fertile soil made arable farming possible. The medieval (reconstructed) terraces belong to Switzerland’s national cultural heritage.

Ramosch is located on the old transit route to Tyrol and Lake Constance and on the left bank of the Inn. The Tschanüff Castle (a new house in Romansh) shows the village’s strategic relevance. Count Meinhard of Tyrol (1238-1295) permitted the Lord of Ramosch to build the castle in 1256.

Ramosch

The castle was destroyed in 1475 by troops of Tyrol in the so-called Hennenkrieg. The castle was rebuilt to be destroyed again during the Bündner Wirren (1618-1639). The castle was abandoned in 1780, resulting in the present-day ruin.

The Romanesque predecessor of the St. Florian’s Church was destroyed in the Schwabenkrieg (Engadinerkrieg/Schweizerkrieg) in 1499 and rebuilt shortly afterwards by Bernhard von Puschlav, who was active in the region (among others in Scuol and Tschlin). Ramosch bought itself free in 1652, having already adopted the Protestant faith.

The church of Ramosch

A fire in 1880 destroyed most of the village. Italian craftsmen and architects rebuilt it, and the Italian style is a reminder. However, the villages of Vnà, Seraplana, Griosch, and Raschvella still show many beautiful Engadine farmhouses.

Foto: www.sent-online.ch

The villa Mengelberg and the chapel from 1920 in Zuort are reminders of the estate of the Dutch conductor Willem Mengelberg (1871-1951). He built the chapel in gratitude for Switzerland’s and the Netherlands’ neutrality in the First World War.

(Source: Ramosch | Engadin)

Ramosch

Impressions of Vna

Swiss-Danish Diplomacy and Relationship

Official diplomatic relations between Switzerland and Denmark have existed since 1920. At first glance, however, their history shows little common ground.

As Shakespeare already wrote, Denmark is one of the oldest monarchies in Europe. As far as is known, the Vikings never entered Swiss territory.

Denmark was never part of the Roman, Merovingian, Carolingian, Burgundian or Holy Roman Empires. Its aristocracy played a dominant political and economic role until the nineteenth century.

That country also governs (autonomous) overseas territories, including Greenland. Denmark is a unitary state;  it experienced the aggression of its German neighbour (1864 and 1940-1945).

Its geographical location and landscape are also very different. The country is a member of the European Union.

What unites the two countries is their centuries-old commercial spirit, innovative mentality, and scientific interest, as well as their respect for pacta sunt servanda, democracy, and human rights.

The Swiss scholar Alfred de Quervain (1879-1927) travelled to Greenland in 1912 to research glaciers and climate.

The data he collected during his seven-week expedition are important to climate science today. Switzerland continues to conduct glacier and climate research in Greenland.

In 1887, Switzerland established an honorary consulate in Copenhagen, which was upgraded to a Consulate General in 1921 and ultimately to an embassy in 1957.

The Danish chargé d’affaires took up his post in Bern in 1918, and in 1920, the first accredited plenipotentiary 1920 took office.

One hundred years later, Switzerland and Denmark still maintain excellent relations. Even their national flags are similar.

Terraces in Lower Engadin and the Fundaziun pro Terra Engiadina

One of the special agricultural areas in Switzerland is located in the Lower Engadin (Unterengadin) region, in the canton of Graubünden. Between Ardez and Tschlin lies an area of terraced fields used for agriculture on the mountain slopes.

It took centuries of ploughing and digging to create the terraces. A project in Tschlin makes replicas of these (wooden) water channels and irrigation systems.

(Source: Fundaziun pro Terra Engiadina)

The Röstigraben and French- and German Speaking Switzerland

The 26 cantons of Switzerland vary in terms of size, constitution, religion, language, economy, and rural or urban character.

Religion was no longer the most pressing issue after the Constitution of 1848 (and following the Sonderbundskrieg of 1847). However, language borders are a serious dividing line, especially between the Romandie (six (mostly) French-speaking cantons in western Switzerland) and the (mostly) German-speaking cantons.

The First World War was a period of tension between these two regions. Various incidents were directly responsible (e.g., the appointment by the parliament of the German-speaking general Ulrich Wille (1848-1925) and espionage affairs).

The Romandie mainly sympathised with the Entente (France, England, Russia, Belgium), and German-speaking Switzerland was primarily at the hands of Germany and Austria.

The Sprachgraben—the ‘gap’ separating Romandie and German-speaking Switzerland—was born; the expression Röstigraben dates back to the 1930s. Rösti is a ‘German-speaking’ food, mainly made of potatoes. The river Saane (Sarine) near Freiburg (Fribourg)is the (symbolic) language border.

It is also an indication of the irony of history. Freiburg, now mainly French-speaking (Fribourg), was for centuries a bilingual (Catholic) canton founded by German-speaking dukes in the twelfth century.

The German-speaking writer Carl Spitteler (1845-1925) was one of the moderate voices in 1914. Personalities from the Romandie were also reconciliatory. They prevented a possible rupture or escalation. 

The General Strike of November 1918 reconciled the French- and German-speaking elites. French-speaking soldiers from the canton of Vaud were deployed in German-speaking Grenchen (canton Solothurn) to break the strike. As a token of gratitude, the town gave des amis Vaudois a generous bonus.

However, the Röstigraben had not yet disappeared. That became clear when Switzerland joined the League of Nations in 1920. The German-speaking cantons and citizens were much less enthusiastic than those in Romandie.

The 1992 European Economic Area membership rejection followed these lines, although the French-speaking citizens were also opposed in the second referendum in 2001.

The Second World War united both regions in supporting the Allies and rejecting the German-Italian dictatorships. The appointment of the French-speaking general Henri Guisan (1874-1960) undoubtedly contributed to this attitude.

Nowadays, the political dividing line is not primarily the Röstigraben but rather the ‘gap’ between rural and urban areas in both regions. The Röstigraben still exists, but there seems to be (more) uniformity in other fields, partly due to globalisation. 

Source: José Ribeaud, La Suisse plurilingue se délingue, Neuchâtel, 2010.

Rösti became popular in the Romandie after all.

Regional Park Chasseral

The Jura Mountains park (387 km²) is located in the cantons of Bern and Neuchâtel in the triangle of the cities of Neuchâtel, La Chaux-de-Fonds, and Biel/Bienne. Mount Chasseral (1606 meters) is the park’s highest point and centre.

The park has 21 villages, 18 of which are in the canton of Bern and 3 in the canton of Neuchâtel.

The Chasseral

The park features a diverse range of landscape elements, including peat bogs, rocky cliffs, forests, and meadows. The villages and towns are characterised by agriculture and industry.

The park is also the (border) region of two cultures and languages: German and French-speaking Switzerland, industry and crafts, and urban and rural communities.

(Source and further information: www.parcchasseral.ch). 

The Romansh Language

The Romansh language (Romontsch or Rumantsch in Graubünden, Romanisch in German-speaking Switzerland, le Romanche in French-speaking Switzerland) is only spoken in the canton of Graubünden. The expression Bündnerromanisch is often used.

Origins

The language originated from the Rhaetian language (spoken before and during Roman rule until the fifth century) and (vulgar) Latin. It developed after the Romans’ departure in the fifth century.

The language was shaped by Lombardian dialects, the Aleman (German) language, the immigration of (German-speaking) Walser, and French influences from Frank and Carolingian rulers.

The opening of Graubünden by tourism, railways, motorways, and the media in the nineteenth century made German the first language of communication in most regions and cities.

1938

In 1938, a referendum recognised Romansh as Switzerland’s fourth language. A large majority of citizens (80%) supported this.

The threats and intimidation by the German-speaking and Italian dictators had the opposite effect. The Swiss government and citizens made it clear that Switzerland was one and indivisible, regardless of language, religion or canton. 

There was no sympathy for the German ‘Heim ins Reich‘ or the ‘irredentismo Italiano’ ideologies.

Al pievel romontsch

Romansh is the first language of around 60,000 inhabitants nowadays. They also speak German and Italian, the other two official languages of the (trilingual) canton.

Romansh has a long oral tradition dating back to the early Middle Ages. 

The first known poem was written in 1527. In the (romantic) nineteenth century, the language became a source of scholarly and intellectual interest. Literature, newspapers, and writers systematically used it.

One of the most famous poems is the Al pievel romontsch (to the Romansh people) by Giachen Caspar Muoth (1844-1906): 

Stai si, defenda Romontsch, tiu vegl lungatg, Risguard pretenda, Per tiu patratg! 

Stand up, Romansh people, defend your old language and demand respect for your heritage.

Five main dialects

The language has five main dialects: Sursilvan is spoken in the Upper Rhine Valley (Vorderrheintal), Sutsilvan in the Lower Rhine area (Hinterrhein), Surmiran in the Albula Valley (Albulatal), Vaz/Obervaz and Val Ferrera, Putèr in Upper Engadin (Oberengadin) and Bergün, Vallader in Lower Engadin (Unterengadin), and (with differences) Münstertal. In addition, related dialects exist in Lombardy and Austria (Ladinisch and Friulian).    

Rumantsch grischun

One unifying initiative is the so-called Rumantsch grischun, the unitarian Romansh language for administration and education. Although fewer people speak the language, it also has a global reputation. 

Future

The term glacier comes from glatsch, which means ice. Recently, there has been increasing interest in this language.

And rightly so. Romansh is a unique and beautiful language, with a direct linguistic heritage stemming from the Rhaetian and Roman past.

Several organisations, initiatives and media are committed to preserving the Romansh language and culture.

(for example, www.romontsch.ch and www.liarumantscha.ch).

The Chapel of St. Gingolph

The chapel of the Holy Family (La Sainte-Famille) in St. Gingolph (canton of Valais) was built in 1677. It was the chapel of the castle (1588). It replaced the old chapel. The decoration and the arcades recall the Baroque era.

St. Gingolph was ruled by the Republic of the Seven Tithings. This Republique existed from 1628 to 1798  (La République des Sept-Dizains/Republik der Sieben Zenden) of Upper-Valais (Brique (Brig), Sion (Sitten), Sierre (Siders), Conge (Goms), Loèche (Leuk), Rarogne (Raron), and Viège (Visp) (see also Swiss Spectator 2610.2020).

St. Gingolph belonged to the Lower-Valais. That is why the chapel bears a strong resemblance to the chapel (1672) of St. George in Sion. Sion was the bishopric and the capital of the Republic.

Dance of Death in Chur

After years of renovation, the Cathedral Treasury Museum in Chur (Domschatzmuseum Chur) is scheduled to open in August 2020.

The works of art come from the St. Luzi cathedral and monastery church.  They illustrate 1600 years of the cultural history of the diocese of Chur,  from its foundation in the 4th century.

The presentation of the world-famous Totentanz (dance of death) of 1543 makes the reopening particularly special. The cycle was installed in 1543 in a corridor of the bishop’s palace.

The murals were commissioned by Bishop Luzius Iter (deceased in 1549). The woodcuts by Hans Holbein the Younger (1497-1543) were his inspiration.

The Totentanz was an important theme in Switzerland and the surrounding regions.

Fragments of the dance of death are on show in the Historical Museum of Basel as well. These images of the “Predikerkirche” survived the Reformation (1525-1529), but not the French period (destruction in 1805-1806). The ossuary of Leuk Beinhaus of Leuk (canton of Valais) also shows wall paintings of the dance of death.

The Totentanz in Chur is still complete, representing a unique heritage.

(Source and further information:

www.bistum-chur.ch/kathedrale/domschatz).