Author: Maarten Koning

The ViaUrschweiz

Via Urschweiz (Kulturwanderweg) is a hiking trail that spans the cantons of Uri and Nidwalden in the heart of Switzerland.

It connects Lake Uri with the so-called Waldstätterweg on Lake Lucerne, crossing nature reserves and places of historical significance. The route is part of the regional hiking trail network (Hiking Trail No. 599). The trail is divided into stages of about 15 kilometres.

These stages are, in fact, five themes:

The fjord of Uri (from lake to glacier, nature reserve in the Reuss delta);

The wild hay landscape of Switzerland (uphill to the Alpine agriculture);

The wild nature garden of Central Switzerland (the flora of the Alps);

The towns of Beckenried, Buochs, Ennetbürgen, Hammetschwand and resort Bürgenstock;

The lake of the cradle of Switzerland.

(Source and further information: www.via-urschweiz.ch).

Alpine Glacier Whisky from Switzerland

Whisky is derived from the Celtic words “Uisge Beatha“, the water of life. Whisky is a drink of Irish and Scottish origin.

The word ‘water of life’ is misleading. Whisky must contain at least 40% alcohol and be aged for at least three years in wooden casks not exceeding 700 litres. The other ingredient is water indeed.

Switzerland was not previously known as a producer of whisky. Two companies from the cantons of Graübunden and Valais produced Swiss-made whisky called ‘Glacier Whisky’.

A distillery in Brig-Glis (canton of Valais) and a cellar in Tantermozza near Zernez (canton of Graubünden) produced the first 6,000 litres, stored in twenty oak wine casks from Valais. They used water from springs in Valais and Graubünden.

The first barrel is mature enough to be bottled and marketed. Switzerland is also a country of Uisge Beatha nowadays.

Dalì meets Dante in Ascona at the Fondazione Majid

The Italian government commissioned Salvador Dalì (1904-1989) in 1950 to illustrate a special edition of La Divina Commedia, the famous work by  Dante Alighieri (1265-1321). Dalì created one hundred watercolour woodcuts in the A4 format.

They represent thirty-three watercolours each for Hell, Purgatory, and Paradise, along with an introduction. They form an original and unique expression of the master of Surrealism’s imagination.

The journey through Hell, Purgatory and Paradise is interpreted metaphysically and psychologically. It is the first time this work of art can be seen outside Italy.

(Source and further information: Fondazione Majid).

Romansh and Lausanne

The Canton of Graubünden is largely German-speaking. There are various Swiss-German dialects (Schweizerdeutsch), including Höchstalemannische, Walserdeutsche or Zürichdeutsche dialects.

Italian is the official language in four areas in the south of Graubünden: Misox (Mesocco) on the border with Ticino in the Mesolcina and Calanca valleys, in Bergell (Bregaglia) and Puschlav (Valposchiavo).  They are Lombard dialects.

Romansh is spoken in five regions. Article 18 of the Federal Constitution guarantees the fundamental right to linguistic freedom as an individual right; even languages that are no longer spoken fall under the scope of Article 18.

The practical solution is laid down in the principle of territoriality (Article 70(2):

“The cantons determine their official languages. To maintain harmony between language communities, they must respect traditional languages and take account of traditional linguistic minorities.”

In any case, Romansh or rather Rumantsch Grischun, has reached the Federal Supreme Court (Bundesgericht) in Lausanne.

The Court only uses the Romansh language in specific cases related to this region. Rumantsch Grischun, the unified Romansh language among the five dialects, is the legal language in Lausanne.

(Source: G. Janzing, Rätoromanisch, 4th edition (Bielefeld, 2016).

Swiss Chamber Orchestras 1920-2020

Switzerland has no Mozart, Beethoven or Chopin. Yet in the 1920s, the country brought about a (forgotten) musical revolution.

It began what would later be called the “Roaring Twenties” — an era of, by and for the avant-garde in art. The great romantic orchestras still set the tone in classical music at the time.

The Swiss composer and conductor Alexander Schaichet (1887-1964) founded the Zurich Chamber Orchestra (Kammerorchester Zürich) in 1920, the first in the world. In 1926, the Basel chamber orchestra, conducted by Paul Sacher (1906-1999), followed. Sacher founded the Collegium Musicum Zurich in 1941.

In the 1930s and 1940s, the Swiss chamber orchestras symbolised resistance to European dictatorships. While dictatorships used music to propagate their ideologies, Richard Wagner’s works are a notorious example; the chamber orchestras chose a different path.

On the other hand, Chamber orchestras played modern, Baroque, or Renaissance music that did not focus on a single country or national identity.

Moreover, the (small) chamber orchestras often played with changing conductors. These reminded more of Mozart’s lead violinists than of the usually long dominance of conductors of the great symphony orchestras.

The chamber orchestras ventured into musical experiments. Musically, they were and are rather basic democracies. In this respect, it is no coincidence that Switzerland has been and remains the cradle of chamber orchestras and has been a significant player in the musical world ever since.

Top-level Research in Davos

Davos (canton of Graubünden) is a winter sports Eldorado with high peaks, but it also has top-level research. Climate change has a strong influence on weather extremes in the Alpine region.

Global warming is twice the world’s average. The consequences include floods, rock avalanches, landslides, and prolonged droughts in the summer.

The Swiss Federal Institute for Forest, Snow and Landscape Research (Die Eidgenossische Forschungsanstalt für Wald, Schnee und Landschaft WSL), the Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research (das Institut für Schnee- und Lawinenforschung, SLF) and the ETH Zurich are participating in a new research centre in Davos.

The Centre will research (rock) movements in the Alps, permafrost, the effects of climate change, mountain ecology and risk communication, as well as adequate warning systems and the ability to react quickly to events.

(Source and further information: www.wsl.ch).

The Three-country Corner Basel

The Sri Chinmoy peace blossoms are at the three-country point or corner (das Dreiländereck) in Basel, where Switzerland, Germany and France meet.

It is one of the five hundred Sri Chinmoy places worldwide. The source of inspiration for this monument was Albert Einstein (1879-1955), who lived for many years in Bern (1902-1909). He wrote his famous theories in this city.

This corner is also the beginning (or end) of the Grand Tour of Switzerland.

Gersau, Europe’s smallest Republic

Switzerland consists of 26 cantons nowadays. Each canton has its history. The canton of Graubünden (Les Grisons), for example, is the creation of a centuries-old alliance of three regions: the Gotteshausbund (League of God’s Hause), the Grauer or Oberer Bund (The Grey or Upper League) and the Zehngerichtebund (League of Ten Jurisdictions, actually eleven). These Alliances united in 1524 in what was to become the canton of Graubünden, almost three centuries later (1798-1815).

The history of the village of Gersau, on the shores of Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee), is also extraordinary. The village was the smallest Republic in Europe until 1798.

The village of Gersau

Gersau lies on the southern slope of the Rigi-Scheidegg, between the mountains Gersauerstock in the west and Hochfluh and Zilistock in the east. The village could only be reached by boat. This geography protected it against the neighbours ( Orte, (local) dynasties, and (Habsburg) Lords).

The story begins in 1064, when Gersau is first mentioned in documents of the Muri monastery. The Counts Von Lenzburg owned the village, and the Counts of Habsburg became its owners in 1171.

The year 1359 is essential. On 31 August that year, Gersau concluded an alliance with the four Waldstätten Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden, and Lucerne, members of the Eidgenossenschaft, a loose confederation of Orte.

Gersau had only 500 inhabitants but participated in the war against the Habsburgs in 1386. The Battle of Sempach was a victory for the Eidgenossen. The soldiers of Gersau captured the banner of the Counts of Hohenzollern.

The Republic of Gersau

Gersau bought off the pledge in 1390 (The Lord of Von Freienbach was the village’s Lord). The village became de facto and de jure independent. Lucerne, Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden were the allies.

Gersau retained its jurisdiction, taxation, and administration, but it remained a member of the Holy Roman Empire. The emperor remained the highest authority. Emperor Sigmund’s document of 31 October 1433 confirmed this status, but he also confirmed Gersau’s independence and Reichsunmittelbarkeit.

The village of around 500 inhabitants had the same privileges, freedoms, and rights as the cities of Bern, Zurich, Basel, Lucerne, and Zug. The large town hall expresses this status.

The (male) citizens older than 14 years chose their rulers. The government consisted of the Landamman (the mayor), his deputy (the statthalter) and seven councillors. New elections were held every two years.

The councillors fulfilled various tasks in public administration, defence, and legislation. The Landamman was also the highest judicial authority.

The church was also active; several churches and at least three chapels were built. Gersau remained catholic after the Reformation (like Lucerne, Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden).

However, from an economic point of view, Gersau did not differ significantly from the surrounding villages or other areas until 1730: it was primarily agricultural, with some industry and trade.

After 1730, the silk industry brought prosperity, and the population doubled to 1,000 around 1800. Gersau was not a canton, but diplomats in the Eidgenossenschaft represented it at the Tagsatzung.

District Gersau

This situation continued until the French invasion of 1798. Gersau also mobilised troops (60 soldiers) against the French invaders, but to no avail.

Gersau’s independence ended in May 1798, when the Helvetic Republic was established (1798-1803). Gersau became a district (Bezirk) of the canton of Schwyz by the Mediation Act (Mediationsakte) of 1803 and the Confederation (1803-1813) of 19 cantons (under French control)

In 1815, the Federation of 22 cantons did not recognise Gersau as an independent republic or canton but as a district (Bezirk) of the canton of Schwyz. Two more years of legal and diplomatic wrangling followed between Gersau, Schwyz, and the Confederation of 22 cantons.

On 27 December 1815, the citizens of Gersau accepted the new status, marking the end of the Republic of Gersau’s four centuries.

(Source: A. Müller, Gersau, Unikum in der Schweizer Geschichte, Baden 2013).