Angenstein Castle

Angenstein Castle (Duggingen, Canton of Basel-Landschaft) was strategically important for the Prince-Bishop of Basel to control his territories in the Jura region (roughly the area of today’s Canton of Jura, the Birseck in Basel-Landschaft and French-speaking areas of Canton Bern). The site is located southwest of Basel in the Birs basin.

Angenstein was inhabited in the 13th century by the counts of Pfirt. They ceded the castle to the Bishop of Basel in 1271. After a long battle between the Bishop and the Canton of Solothurn over the ownership of this strategically important outpost, the Bishop emerged victoriously.

In 1557, after the Bishop was forced to leave Basel for Porrentruy (today’s canton of Jura), Melchior von Lichtenfels (1517-1575) donated the castle to his chancellor, Wendelin Zipper.

He rebuilt the castle into the knightly and romantic residence it is today. He added half-timbered buildings to the four-storey donjon, which still characterises the image of Angenstein today.

With its three beautiful stained-glass windows, donated by the Bishop and the canons, the chapel was completed between 1560 and 1562. These windows symbolise the three important church holidays Good Friday, “Christmas and Pentecost.

Various wars and looting (including by Protestant Swedish troops during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) and fires led to increasing decay.

In 1951, the city of Basel acquired the castle, which, however, is located in the territory of the Canton of Basel-Landschaft. Between 1988 and 1991, the complex underwent a complete renovation and became habitable.

Not only is this centuries-old history and the return of Basel as the owner (in 1951) fascinating, but also the railway tunnel under the castle and the river Birs flowing alongside.

Modernity, history, natural barriers, and age-old rivalry between cantons are never far away in Switzerland.

(Source: www.duggingen.ch).

Hiking in the Franches-Montagnes

The hiking trail in the Franches-Montagnes offers everything that the Jura has to offer in winter. Snow-covered meadows, beech, oak, pine forests, rocky cliffs, streams, farms, fens, and villages alternate.

The hike starts in Saignelégier, the capital of the Franches-Montagnes (canton of Jura). This area is the bastion of Swiss horse breeding. The national horse market (le Marché-Concours national de chevaux), which takes place on the second Sunday in August, is considered the canton’s most prominent (folkloristic) event.

The Étang des Royes and the quarry (Carrière) des Royes are remarkable hiking tracks. The quarry for the extraction of marlstone owes its existence to the collision of the continental plates of Africa and Europe 230 million years ago.

The result was the Alps and the Jura, surrounded by seas. This limestone developed on the seafloor over millions of years. Fossils in the limestone bear witness to the presence of oceans.

The creation of the Étang des Royes is of considerably more recent date. It is a remnant of the last ice age, 10,000 years ago. The many water sources in the Jura also led to the formation of peat bogs.

As early as 1589, a grain mill powered by water was located at the Étang des Royes. Today, it is a nature reserve without industrial activities.

The village of Pré-Petitjean (Montfaucon), a little further on, has a railway station as a link for the weary and a good restaurant for hungry hikers. The village is also the seat of Le train à vapeur des Franches-Montagnes (Steam Train of the Franches-Montagnes).

The walk continues to the train stations in La Combe and La Combe Tabeillon through a picturesque setting of cliffs, streams, small gorges and along the Étang de Bollement, a nature reserve.

The Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC/Club Alpin Suisse, CAS) regularly organises hiking trips in this area (and elsewhere).

(Source and further information: www.sac-cas.ch).

Crans-Montana and James Bond alias 007

The French-speaking village of Crans-Montana (Canton of Valais) did not exist in the mid-nineteenth century. The Rhone Valley near Sierre had been inhabited since the Bronze and Iron Ages, and the Celts and Romans also left their traces; however, the mountains were not cultivated until centuries later.

Nearby Lens had about a dozen houses and farms around 1150. The location of today’s Crans-Montana on the Haut-Plateau remained uninhabited for much longer. The first buildings are only traceable from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

The breakthrough came at the end of the 19th century. English tourism in other areas of Switzerland often took place in villages, such as St. Moritz or Davos, or in villages and towns along lakes, for instance, Lake Geneva or Lake Neuchâtel.
Crans-Montana was a plain, the Haut-Plateau, but no village. Farmers grazed their cattle, and hunters regularly came for the hunt.

It changed after 1890, when an increasing number of travellers stayed overnight in Sierre. The mountains and the Haut-Plateau attracted attention, and in 1893, entrepreneurs built the first hotel on the Haut-Plateau, Hotel du Parc, in Montana.
Montana became a health resort and a small town for winter sports.

From the 1920s onward, various sports made the village a year-round destination. The Alps and the Haut-Plateau offer a range of activities, including golf, horseback riding, tennis, hiking, excellent cross-country skiing opportunities, and other sports facilities.
The golf club has had the highest 18-hole course since 1908. It has been named after the legendary Spanish golfer Severiano Ballesteros (1957-2011).

The villages of Crans and Montana merged to form a single municipality in 1929. Life on the Haut-Plateau, with its healthy air and stunning views, is appreciated by film stars, bankers, artists, top athletes, and other celebrities.

For example, Crans-Montana has been the home since 1996 and the place of death in 2017 of the world’s most famous secret agent.

(Source: www.crans-montana.ch).

The Rhine

The Rhine is both a river of borders and a river of connections simultaneously. The significance of the Rhine for politics, trade, culture, language, religion and conflicts is complex.

The Rhine patiently flowed from its source at the Gotthard Massif to the North Sea for millennia. The people and countries on both banks of the Rhine were the complicating factors.

For the Romans, the Rhine was not only part of their waterways and infrastructure but also their border. It was also a deity, Rhenus. Julius Caesar (100-44 BC) designated the Rhine as the military and natural barrier between Gallia and Germania.

Emperor Augustus (62 BC – 14 AD) crossed the Rhine after conquering the area of present-day Switzerland (15-13 BC). The Romans withdrew after 9 AD, following their disastrous loss of three legions in the Varus Battle, named after the Roman general who led these legions. The Romans retreated to the left bank of the Rhine.

However, they occupied large territories on the right bank of the Rhine a few decades later. They installed the Rhine fleets and founded cities on both banks of the Rhine. Business and trade flourished, and the free movement of (Romanised) Celts and German tribes increased during this period.

The decline after the Roman Empire’s fall continued until the Carolingian kings and emperors (8th-9th centuries). They founded monasteries, churches, and cathedrals in the Upper Rhine and the Low Countries. The abbeys at St. Gallen (719) and Reichenau (742) are only a few important monasteries from this period.

The ten sovereign states along the Rhine, 17th century.  Image: Dreiländermuseum Lörrach

They also created a new infrastructure for trade, cities and long-distance exchange. Dorestad, Nijmegen, Nimwegen, and towns and settlements in the Netherlands also flourished.

The Holy Roman Empire (from the 10th century onwards) continued to develop the Rhine region. Cologne became one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the Christian world and an important trading centre.

Cathedrals, churches, and abbeys in, among others, Chur, Basel, Constance, Strasbourg, Speyer, Worms, Cologne, and Nijmegen (formerly Nimwegen) adorned the river with a band of churches that Emperor Maximilian (1459-1519) called the “Pfaffengasse”.

The cities along the Rhine grew faster and faster from the 16th to the 19th century (despite many wars and epidemics), culminating in the development of Basel in Switzerland, the Ruhr in Germany and Rotterdam in the Netherlands.

At the Congress of Vienna (1814-1815), the riparian countries (France, the Netherlands, Switzerland, and Prussia) agreed to establish regulations for navigation on the Rhine. They also founded the International Central Commission for the Navigation of the Rhine. 

 These countries intervened to change the Rhine’s course, prevent floods, and make the river navigable. The second half of the nineteenth century witnessed the development of numerous new techniques and machines that facilitated the construction of locks, dykes, and drainage canals.

The Rhine remains a vital waterway for transporting and shipping goods between Northern and Southern Europe. For the first time in history, the river lost its strategic and military function after 1945.

Much has been written (since the Greeks and Romans) and said (since the first inhabitants) about the Rhine, but this conclusion seems to be an appropriate summary:

Hier kreuzen sich die bedeutendsten europäischen Kulturströme, frühe mediterrane Einflüße, westliche Regionalismen, östliche Neigung zum Okkulten, nördliche Mythologie, preußisch-kategorischer Imperativ, Ideale der französischen Revolution und noch manches andere. (Max Ernst, 1953).

 (Source: Marie-Louise von Plessen (ed.), Der Rhein, Eine europäische Flussbiografie, Bonn, 2016).

Lake Constance is traditionally an international lake

Lake Constance (Bodensee) has been a vital trade route connecting east to west and south to north for centuries. The Celtic inhabitants left several settlements of pile dwellings as a testament to their heritage. Several museums and replicas of these villages can be visited around the lake.

The Romans created the foundation for this region’s economic, religious and urban development from 13. BC onwards. The local inhabitants, including Celtic and Germanic tribes, became Roman citizens. Cities and other settlements,  trade, shipping and viticulture flourished in the Pax Romana.

After the Roman era (after the fifth century), Romanised Celts, Alemanni and Franks continued to shape language and culture for centuries. The Frankish kingdoms of the Merovingians and Carolingians, the Duchy of the Alemanni, the Empire of Charlemagne (800-843), the Holy Roman Empire, local rulers and Christianity (from the fourth century onwards) were decisive.

In the fourth century, Christianity emerged within the Roman Empire’s structures in this region. The Abbey of St Gallen, the Kartause of Ittingen, the episcopal city of Constance and the monastic island of Reichenau depict the close cooperation and contacts from the early Middle Ages onwards.

The famous design (around 810) for the Abbey of St Gallen, for example, comes from the monastery of Reichenau. Monasteries and later secular rulers also had estates on both sides of the present-day borders of Austria, Switzerland, and Germany.

From the 13th and 14th centuries onwards, Swabia (Schwaben), Habsburg, and the (slow) development of the Swiss Confederation played an essential role in this process.

Today, the cantons of Thurgau, St Gallen, and Schaffhausen are the central administrative units on the Swiss side of the lake. In Germany, this region is part of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. To the east, the lake borders Austria.

The border between Germany and Switzerland, or between the EU and Switzerland, is an (imaginary) line running right through the lake (and the Rhine). This border has never effectively hindered (trade and people) traffic, apart from the first half of the 20th century, because of the political situation and the two world wars.

In the latter days of World War II, in May 1945, after the German surrender, some German ships on Lake Constance sought refuge in Switzerland, an unobstructed waterway of a few kilometres. In vain, as the (French) occupying forces of Baden-Württemberg successfully requisitioned the ships.

It is regrettable that one of the heroes of the German resistance in World War II, George Elser (1903-1945), was arrested in Konstanz of all places after his failed attempt on the Führer on 8 November 1939 in Munich.

The movement of people, goods, ideas and culture has almost always been unimpeded. For George Elser, however, it was a fatal border. Lake Constance, with Meersburg, Bregenz, Lindau, and Friedrichshafen on the German and Austrian sides, and Kreuzlingen, Romanshorn, Rorschach, and Arbon on the Swiss side, remains the hub of borderless culture, trade, shipping, and passenger traffic.

Political developments and national borders have not impacted this lake. This richly illustrated edition guides readers through the region’s many cultural and historical treasures, towns, and places.

(Bron: P. Brauns, 101 Orte zum Verweilen und Entdecken, Darmstadt, 2015)

The Big Ben in Zurich

The St. Peter Church (St. Peter Kirche) is the oldest in Zurich. Its visible foundations date back to the ninth century. The originally Carolingian church was renovated in the Romanesque style from the 10th to the 13th centuries.

The church played a crucial role in the Reformation in Zurich. The pastor Leo Jud (1482-1542) supported the reformer Huldrych Zwingli (1484-1531).

The city council discussed with these reformers, who even won the argument. The city council agreed with the Reformation, and St. Peter’s became a Protestant church.

The church’s baroque nave replaced its Gothic predecessor in 1706. The late Romanesque tower and choir have been preserved.

However, the famous part is the church tower or the church bell. The church bell has a diameter of 8.7 metres and is thus the largest in Europe, bigger than Big Ben in London, which has a diameter of 7 metres.

(Source and further information: www.st-peter-zh.ch).

Arlesheim, Birseck and Reichenstein

Arlesheim (Canton Basel-Landschaft) is a village with the world’s largest cathedral. The cathedral and the surrounding palaces for the canons were built in 1678.

A century later, in 1785, the “solitude romantique prèd d’Arlesheim”, the Arlesheim Hermitage, was founded. This English garden was laid out around the ruins of the medieval castles of Birseck and Reichenstein.

Birseck

Reichenstein

Both castles have been renovated in the last hundred years. Birseck Castle is the eye-catcher of the Ermitage. The neo-Gothic frescoes have recently been restored to their original state. The castle is open to the public. Reichenstein Castle is run by a foundation.

(Source: www.ermitage-arlesheim.info).

The Wolfs Gorge in Naturepark Thal

The gorge (die Wolfsschlucht)is in the nature park Thal (Canton Solothurn). The impressive gorge shows the mighty forces of nature. The waters of the Wolfsbach stream have eroded the porous Jura rock for thousands of years. Although the stream nowadays only rarely carries water, its power traces are still visible.

Between high, partly overhanging rock faces, a path leads through the narrow, wildly romantic gorge with ridges up to one hundred meters high. In just under one and a half kilometres, there is a 300-metre difference in altitude, always accompanied by the Wolfsbach, which creates this impressive natural spectacle.

(Source: www.naturparkthal.ch).

Swiss Mercenaries

From the mid-fifteenth to the mid-nineteenth century, soldiers of the Eidgenossenschaft were the most sought-after export product.

The prestige of these mercenaries’ fighting spirit, courage, and armament rose to unprecedented heights after the defeats they inflicted on the most powerful armies: the Habsburg in 1315, 1386, 1415, 1460, and 1499, and the mighty Duchy of Burgundy in 1474-1477.

Without the Eidgenossen, the kingdom of Burgundy might have come into being, and the then powerless kingdom of France might have been a short episode in history. An estimated one and a half million (!) Swiss soldiers served kings, emperors, dukes, popes, republics and other rulers in this period.

The Swiss Guard is a relic of this era. The Lion of Lucerne (the Löwendenkmal) commemorates the Swiss Guard of King Louis XVI of France. Most of them did not survive the attack on the royal palace of the Tuilereëien in 1792.

The system was simple and effective. Prominent families maintained contact with their European patrons and received generous remuneration, often for generations.
The simple soldier, often from a peasant background, received his (meagre) pay and, with luck, returned to his village with some booty. Few became rich in this dangerous profession. Many remained in the countries of their patrons or did not survive.

The Constitution of 1848 banned this lucrative trade, for it had become what it was. Not so much for the ordinary soldier, but especially for the families that recruited them.

Moreover, after 1848, Switzerland underwent rapid development, transitioning from an emigration country to an immigration country. Additionally, the rural cantons in the country’s middle and east, which were the mercenaries’ purveyors, became less interested due to the rise of industry, tourism, trade, and the New World, specifically America.

The canton of Nidwalden in central Switzerland supplied many mercenaries for centuries. The fate of most of them is unknown.
However, there are individuals from well-known families. Louis Wyrsch, Borneo Louis, is one of the most famous. He served as an officer in the Dutch colonial army, making a name and fortune.

The mercenary sector has also been controversial in Switzerland. It was even an essential point of interest during the Reformation, among others, for the Zurich reformer Huldrych Zwingli (1484-1531).

As early as 1530, he advocated for a ban due to moral and religious motives. Swiss mercenaries often fought against each other. It was regarded as immoral and a waste of human capital.

The Nidwalden Historical Museum in Stans presents a well-documented exhibition on the moral, economic, organisational and personal facets of Nidwalders’ foreign military service.

The exhibition also gives a good impression of this phenomenon in other cantons.
(Source: Historisches Museum Nidwalden, nidwaldner-museum.ch).

1500 Swiss on a Timber Raft or Höllander Flöße

A Dutch chronicle from the nineteenth century (Jan Willem van Druijnen, Leven aan de Waal of Vervolg der Kronijk van Nijmegen 1819-1859) reports that more than 1500 Swiss arrived in Nimwegen (Nijmegen) on timber rafts in July and August 1819, on their way to Dordrecht. They emigrated by ship to South Brazil.

It indicates mass emigration and the route taken by the emigrants. The rivers were the most secure, cheap, and comfortable way to travel, although the (hygienic) conditions were catastrophic.

Timber rafts were the most remarkable but almost forgotten means of transport on the Rhine. This transportation system began in the sixteenth century.

The primary reason was the decision by the Dutch province of Holland in the sixteenth century to use only stone to build buildings. The demand for (long) piles to strengthen the foundations of the houses in this delta was enormous.

For example, the palace on Dam Square is built on more than 13,000 piles. The flourishing shipbuilding industry also needed wood. This wood (oak, beech, pine) was present in the Vosges, the Black Forest and other forest areas along the Rhine in Switzerland. Smaller rivers, such as the Main and Neckar, transported the trees downstream to Mainz and Mannheim. The piles were tied into huge rafts up to 300 metres wide.

The rafts sailed to Dordrecht. They were dismantled and sold to local customers. A log aft contained up to 30,000 m3 of tree piles. These giant rafts were called Höllander Flöße. It was a complicated logistical operation to manoeuvre the rafts downstream on the Rhine at approximately 16-20 kilometres per day (no night sailing).

Hundreds of crew members lived and slept on the raft in wooden huts, and the fleet lord, helmsmen, and other staff had impressive mansions.

Pigs and other animals for slaughter, thousands of kilograms of flour, cheese, and butter, salt, peas, and beans, and tens of thousands of litres of beer were taken along as forage.

Everything and everyone went out of the way when the colossus came along. A small boat with a red and white flag sailed ahead for one hour to warn, as the raft could not stop.

The braking distance with dozens of heavy anchors was miles long. Bridge pillars, quays and other ships were often damaged.

Hundreds of crew members rowed the raft, accompanied it on the side, or manned the so-called knees at the front with ropes. Hundreds of these rafts passed the Waal at Nijmegen in four centuries on their way to Dordrecht, a highly lucrative commercial activity whose profits were fabulous. As an indication, a raft was valued at up to 1 million guilders at that time.

The costs were high. The toll cost around 40,000 to 60,000 guilders, including the purchase of wood and forage, as well as the crew’s salaries.

The last raft, consisting of 2,500 piles pulled by tugboats, passed the Rhine in 1967. Four centuries of transport by rafts had ended, and by that time, Switzerland had already become an immigration destination.

(source: K. Moerbeek, B. Gunterman, Het Nijmeegsch Rondgezicht. Een tentoonstelling over het oudste stadspanorama van Nederland, Nijmegen 2019).