The Saffron Village of Mund

There is always something to discover in Switzerland. For example, every hamlet, village and town has its particularity, the village of Mund (canton of Valais). In Gondo (Kanton Valais), there was a real gold rush in the nineteenth century, but in Mund, the (culinary) precious Saffron, the ‘Queen of Plants’, has been cultivated for centuries. Iran is the home country and the undisputed market leader in this field, but Mund also has a reputation.

Mund is located at an altitude of 1,200 metres in the middle of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Jungfrau-Aletsch, on the right side of the Rhone Valley, not far from Naters and Brig.

Saffron has been cultivated in Switzerland since the 14th century, but nowadays, only in Mund. In an area of two hectares, the harvest in September and November yields approximately two kilograms of pure Saffron per year. Per kilo, no less than 130,000 petals are needed!

Due to climatic conditions (lots of sun, sufficient rain and morning dew) and the soil conditions, the aroma is exceptional. It is not only the Queen of Plants but, per gram, more precious than gold!

The Saffron Museum (Safranmuseum) in Mund and the Safranlehrpfad tell the history of this unique plant in Valais and its properties in scents and colours.

Source and Further information: www.belalp.ch  en de Safranzunft Mund.

Two Thousand Years Geneva, Vienne, Allobroges and Gallia Narbonensis

Geneva is more than a city of diplomacy, international organisations, markets, banks, the watch industry, and the lake’s fountain.

It was the first territory conquered and governed by the Romans (120 B.C.) in present-day Switzerland, one of the country’s first bishoprics, the capital of Calvinism, an independent republic until it was annexed by Napoleon in 1798 and incorporated into the Swiss Confederation in 1815. In short, a city with a millennia-old past and an interesting and varied (cultural) present.

Le Sentier culturel Vielle-Ville (The cultural path of the old town) traces two thousand years of history by an architectural, cultural and historical trail:

The Roman period and Christianity (the archaeological site of St Peter’s Cathedral);
The kings of Burgundy, the Merovingians and Carolingians, the county, the bishopric, the city, and the canton of Geneva (since 1815), the dukes of Savoy, and the famous Escalade, the Reformation, and the Musée de la Réforme.

The Roman period

The Burgundian King

The City Hall, the seat of the cantonal and municipal political for more than half a millennium, the Place du Bourg-de-Four, the birthplace of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Maison Tavel, the Museum of the Zoubov Foundation, the Barbier-Mueller Museum, Jean Calvin’s house (the house he lived in was demolished in 1706 and replaced by the current building).

The Saint-Antoine Bastion, the Lutheran Church, the Baudet Tower, the Old Arsenal, the Reformers’ Wall, the Temple of Fustery, the Temple of Madeleine, the Abbey Foundation, the Museum of Art and History, the Graphic Arts Cabinet, and many ancient streets and squares. Et encore le Bastion Saint-Antoine, l’Église luthérienne and la tour Baudet.

The residence of Calvin

The auditorium of Calvin

Collège Calvin

The four Calvinist reformers Calvin, Farel, Beze et Knox, le mur des Réformateurs 

(Source and more information: www.geneve.ch).

The Rhone, the Arve and Neptune

La Madeleine

Le Temple de la Fusterie

Hans Rudolph Manuel Deutsch, the oldest realistic map of Geneva, around 1550. AEG Archives privées 247/1/91

Why Switzerland ?

Why Switzerland is the title of Jonathan Steinberg’s book (Cambridge, third edition, 2015). The book is a detailed study of seven centuries of history, politics, religion, culture, economy and values that have shaped the country and its cantons and made them what they are: not an island but an oasis in the middle of Europe, or with Steinberg’s words:

“Why Switzerland? consists of two parts: why is there Switzerland? And why should anybody else care? The answer to the first is clear and has been the main effort in this book: a detailed study of creating a unique and successful small state over seven centuries and how and why it has worked. The answer to the second is the other face of the answer to the first. This small country represents the most intensive and continuous experiment in the strengths and limits of democracy. Switzerland matters to everybody who prefers democracy”.

Vevey, 29 July 2019. Photo: TES

Stereotypes and facts

There are plenty of stereotypes and facts about Switzerland (and its inhabitants). Whenever the country makes it into the foreign press, it is invariably about the Jewish assets from the Second World War, the banking secrecy, black- or criminal money, the late introduction of suffrage for women (1971), the Minaret ban (2009) or the setting of quotas for emigrants (2014). Recently, the application of neutrality in the case of an indirect supply of weapons to Ukraine can be added.

This article does not deal with these facts. Still, it aims to place them within the context of centuries-old historical, social, and political developments, including direct democracy, the almost proverbial politeness in daily life, and respect for privacy.

Country of refuge

Switzerland was a country of emigration until 1848. At the same time, it has always been a place of refuge for (French) protestants or Huguenots, humanists and intellectuals from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries, revolutionaries and anarchists, on the one hand, monarchs and aristocrats on the other hand in the nineteenth century, pacifists, anti-war activists (the artistic movement Dada in Zurich, for example) and refugees from 1914 onwards.

In the 19th century, Austrian Chancellor Klemens von Metternich (1773-1859) referred to the country as a haven for republicans and anarchists. Switzerland was the black sheep of the surrounding European monarchies. There was even a possibility of an invasion to end its liberal policy. It never came to that because the country and its cantons (which ultimately decided on the right of residence) sometimes gave in to prevent further provocations.

Women’s suffrage 

The late introduction of women’s suffrage is also more complicated than the year 1971 suggests. Women could already study at Swiss universities as early as 1867, and they (and some men) already demanded suffrage. In 1869, Marie Vögtlin (1845-1916) became the first woman in Europe to pursue a medical education.

Emilie Kempin-Spyri (1853-1901), the niece of the writer Johanna Spyri (1827-1901), the author of Heidi (1881), obtained her doctorate in 1887, making her the first woman in Europe to hold the title of “Frau Doktor.”

Women were also involved in various societal organisations. Until 1918, their voting and legal status did not differ significantly from those of other European countries, except for the Nordic countries.

Marie Vögtlin (1845–1916). Foto: Wikipedia

Then came the First World War and the deployment of women as replacements for men in the war-faring nations. In 1918, this social position could not be reversed, and the governments introduced suffrage without a referendum.

Women had not replaced men in neutral Switzerland. There were, however, federal initiatives and referendums at the cantonal level on women’s suffrage. They failed in the (political) world and mindset of exclusively male voters and politicians at the cantonal and federal levels.

Would this outcome have been different in other countries? In addition, most (small and rural) cantons opposed this right at the national level until 1971 and, on one occasion, even until a ruling of the Supreme Court (Bundesgericht) in 1991.

After its introduction, however, the women took their position. The first female ‘president’ or prima inter pares in the national government was already there in 1999.

The number and quality of female politicians are also high. The legal status of (married) Swiss women was just as incapacitated as in other European countries until the 1950s and 1960s.

Jean-Baptiste Isabey (1767-1855), Congress of Vienna. Photo: Wikipedia

Neutrality

And then, Switzerland’s neutral relationship with Germany after France’s fall in June 1940. Switzerland was too restrictive in admitting Jewish refugees before and after 1940. The country remains ashamed today, despite the presence of ‘disobedient’ officials, citizens, and rescuers, as well as public opinion that rejected the policy. Switzerland was no exception to this restrictive policy either. The “J” in the passport of Jewish people from 1938 onwards at the border is, backwards-looking, unacceptable from a moral point of view and a (voluntary) sign of cowardice to please the neighbour.

The country and its factories (indirectly) supplied weapons to Germany, and Germany put its (looted and stolen) gold and money in Swiss bank accounts. But what was the alternative? Aggressive dictatorships surrounded the country. 

Although the country was heavily armed and would probably have put up fierce resistance in its Alpine fortress (Reduite), it was impossible to resist for long. The motto was to survive by compromising and pleasing. In this respect, Switzerland is no exception to other neutral countries (Sweden, for example) or the industries, collaboration and bureaucracies in occupied countries.

It is always easy to judge retrospectively. In any case, there has never been a relevant political movement with sympathy for the Italian dictator and his Irredentismo, nor in Ticino, nor for the German dictator and his Heim ins Reich in German-speaking Switzerland.

The French—and German-speaking Swiss were united in their rejection of German and Italian ambitions. Moreover, on 20 April 1939, Switzerland was the only country that did not send a formal delegation to the Führer’s birthday parade in Berlin. This was a protest against the invasion of Czechoslovakia in March 1939. From a moral standpoint, the country was not neutral.  

The neutrality is heavily debated because of the invasion of Ukraine. The public and parliamentary debates are in full swing. Neutrality is not a goal, and different circumstances require different applications.

The neutrality of 1815 is not the same as that of 1933-1945, 1948-1989, and 2022. The politicians will hopefully not make the same “J” mistake in 2022 in the expectation of pleasing another dictator, although a Swiss Lord Haw Haw (1906-1946) is on stage.

The Toblerones near Einsiedeln, canton of Schwyz, 1940. Photo: TES.

Banking secrecy

Handling the (unclaimed) Jewish assets after 1945 is related to the centuries-old banking secrecy. Many account holders and their families had not survived. Distant relatives were often unaware, and the banking secrecy, bureaucracy and legal issues prevented access to the accounts. Could it have been handled differently? Yes, but banking secrecy was sacrosanct and not written with this situation in mind. It also applies to today’s black money or assets of dictators and other criminals.

Pecunia non olet also applies to Switzerland. Many adjustments and reforms have already been made or are pending. Can it be done faster? Undoubtedly, Switzerland is no exception.

Referendum and People’s Initiative

It also applies to the outcomes of referendums or People’s Initiatives. Citizens are concerned about certain developments and can express their concerns directly in Switzerland. Is it always right? No, but neither are decisions made by professional politicians, let alone by ignoring problems or avoiding public and political debate.

The political organisation 

Direct democracy, the federal model, the decentralised organisation of the country, the unique Constitution of 1848 and its mandatory seven ministers, the Konkordanzsystem and the Zauberformul in forming the government, the special relationship between parliament and government and the equality of the first and the second chamber of the national parliament, the combination of the Majorzsystem or the election by an absolute majority of individuals in elections for the second chamber (senate) and the executive bodies of the cantons and municipalities, and the Proporzsystem or the proportional representation in elections for the municipal, cantonal and national (first chamber) parliaments, the annually rotating ‘president’ of the country or the primus/prima inter pares of the federal government are the basis of the political and social stability.

The citizen is sovereign.

However, the most critical asset of the Swiss model is the citizen. The citizen is the sovereign (except in a state of emergency) and, together with the cantons, is the founder of the Federation, the guardian of the Constitution and the supreme legislator unless powers have been transferred to the Federation by the citizens and the cantons, in which case there is still always the possibility of a binding referendum.

Their societal engagement reflects the political involvement of the citizens. It is expressed, among other things, in the functioning of the national, cantonal and municipal political and democratic institutions and the ‘Milizsystem‘, the respect for nature, farmers, artisans and (traffic) rules, politeness in daily life and the astonishing and impressive scientific, industrial and intellectual creativity and innovative power across the country.  

Conclusion

Steinberg writes:

“The Swiss have always found a way to deal with the threats to their way of life every century. They have done so because the determination to survive and preserve ‘Swissness’ has not depended on will but on a way of being, a set of values and habits so deeply ingrained that most Swiss are almost unaware of how powerful these values are.

Living together was more important than being right. Switzerland cannot be a model for other countries because its history cannot be repeated, but it can inspire other societies. For more than seven centuries, it has managed to face its problems, and in doing so, it has expanded, not contracted, the sphere of activity of the sovereign people”.

That is why Switzerland is the genuine democratic European Union of twenty-six (centuries-old) sovereign republics.

Espace Rousseau Neuchâtel

The Neuchâtel Public Library and University Library (La Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Neuchâtel) in the former Latin College (Collège latin) presents a world-famous exhibition dedicated to the writer and philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778).  

The former Latin College (Collège latin) in Neuchâtel. Photo: TES

Jean-Jacques Rousseau was one of the greatest thinkers of the Enlightenment and is still an “influencer” in literature, politics, and social issues with a varied but coherent number of works.

Three texts were bestsellers and a combination of literature and philosophy: La Nouvelle Héloïse (1761], Les Confessions (1765) and Les Rêveries du promeneur solitaire (1776).

In the Enlightenment, he advocated the reform of the political and social structures, education, morality, law, and religion.  His Sur les sciences et les arts (1750) and Discours sur l´origine et les fondements de l’inégalité parmi les hommes (1755)  made him famous.

The following works, however, were considered too controversial, such as Emile ou de l’éducation (1762) and Du Contrat social (1762). He was forced into exile in Neuchâtel, a Prussian principality (1707-1857).

Music has always played a significant role in Rousseau’s life and work. He proposed a new musical notation system (in 1742), wrote more than 400 articles on music for the ‘Encyclopédie’ of Denis Diderot (1713-1784) and Jean le Rond d’Alembert (1717-1783), composed operas, and was an active music copyist.

He developed a passion for botany during his stay (1762-1765) in Neuchâtel and the Island St. Peter in the Lake of Biel (Bielersee/lac de Bienne). He wrote several books about this topic and created a new system of describing plants, the pasigraphy of flora.

J.J. Rousseau, La botanique, printed in 1805, illustrated by P.J. Redouté.

Combining new technologies, archives and first editions of several of his writings, the Espace Rousseau Neuchâtel presents a journey through his life. It offers a better understanding of Rousseau’s relationship with his contemporaries and the influence of his work.

(See for further information also: Môtiers (the village of his stay in 1762): Musée Jean-Jacques Rousseau; Geneva (his place of birth), Maison Rousseau et littérature; the Island St. Peter (in September 1765 he fled to this island), Couvet (he became a citizen of the village on 1 January 1765) and in NeuchâteI (Musée d’arts et d’histoire and L’Association Jean-Jacques Rousseau).

Source: Espace Rousseau Neuchâtel

Erasmus in Concert in Basel

From 12 to 18 September 2022, the Hochrhein Music Festival will host the interdisciplinary festival “Erasmus Klingt! – Festival Lab”, highlighting the influence of Erasmus’ works on science and the arts.

Each edition focuses on one of his works. The theme of this event is Follia, inspired by one of his most famous works, “In Praise of Folly”. This book was first published in 1511 (in Latin under the title laus stultitiae) and immediately became a bestseller on the eve of the Reformation.

The themes of “Follia (or Folia)”, madness, foolishness or folly, reflect the contents of the concerts.

Concert Programme and further information: Erasmus klingt! – Festival Lab (erasmus-klingt.ch)

La douce Suisse

A walk between Auvernier and Bevaix (canton of Neuchâtel) on the banks of the lake leads to vineyards, magnificent manors, little beaches and hills.

The medieval abbey of Bevaix stands high on a hill, converted into a farm in the 16th century, after the reformation around 1530.

The Jura

The vineyards are lined with rose bushes, the best indicator of insect pests affecting vineyards.

Villages and towns have retained much of their charm, Bevaix, Cortaillod, Colombier, Corcelles, Cormondrèche, Boudry, Auvernier, for example.

The hiking and biking trails lead you to the most beautiful places on this less-than-fifteen-kilometre route.

Source: the Jura and Three Lakes Region

Boudry and Boudry Castle

The baye of Auvernier, the lake of Neuchâtel and the Mont Blanc 

Cormondrèche

Days of Art Basel 2022

From 1 to 4 September 2022, the new edition of Kunsttage Basel will take place in Basel and its surroundings.

This year’s event will again make modern and contemporary art accessible to a wide audience. Some 55 museums, galleries, exhibition spaces and other venues will take part.

The Kunsttage Basel aims to make the artistic and cultural diversity of the Basel region visible.

(Further information: Kunsttage Basel)

Schwingen in Switzerland

Last weekend (26-28 August), Switzerland’s sporting event of the year took place in Pratteln (canton of Basel-Landschaft). It was not about skiing, cross-country skiing or ski jumping, nor hiking, mountaineering, cycling or rowing (the annual Bilac will not take place until 17 September).

The event, which has been organised by the Eidgenössische Schwinger- und Älplerfest (ESAF) since 1895, focuses on three sports: Schwingen, Steinstossen and Hornussen.

The event began with a parade on Friday, September 26. Over 4,000 people, 250 animals, and 90 groups in traditional dress, as well as various professional groups and cultural representations of Pratteln’s more than 100 nationalities, took part.

Railway Station Pratteln, welcome to all cantons.

Sports

Schwingen (la lutte in French, and sometimes “Swiss wrestling” in English) has been around for centuries. The first sources date back to the late Middle Ages (1100 to 1400). Especially in central Switzerland, in the cantons of Bern (especially in the Emmental, Entlebuch and Bernese Oberland), Schwyz, the two Appenzeller, Obwalden and Nidwalden, it was a popular leisure.

Schwingen

Schwingen is also depicted in the cathedral of Laussane on a fresco from the thirteenth century. It is a Swiss national sport, although by far the most popular in German-speaking Switzerland and somewhat in the Romandie (French-speaking Switzerland). In Italian- and Romansh-speaking Switzerland, the sport has few practitioners.

The sport is similar to (Japanese) wrestling with some unique characteristics. The clothing is prescribed: long trousers with short jute trousers on top, which most resemble a nappy, tied with a belt.

According to precisely defined rules, two opponents try to force each other to the ground within a ring of sand. A referee decides whether the qualifications for a win according to the rules of the Eidgenössische Schwingerverband have been met.

Steinstossen

Steinstossen (stone throwing) is as old as Greek antiquity. It involves throwing bullets with weights ranging from 20 to 40 or even 83.5 kg. It is exceptional that it has become a national sport. This sport is practised almost exclusively in German-speaking Switzerland.

Hornussen

Hornussen is a particular case. It is also centuries old and combines elements of golf, cricket, and Frisian kaatsen. There are two teams, one defensive and one offensive. The attackers must hit a disc (the so-called ‘Hornuss’) made of plastic (formerly of other material) weighing 78 grams with a diameter of 62 x 32 mm with a long stick (the ‘Strecken’) of two to three metres from the tee-off point of a platform (the ‘Bock’) as far away as possible.

The defending team must try to stop the Hornuss with a 60 x 60 cm blade (the ‘Schindel’) on a stick. The pitch can be up to three hundred metres long. The sides are lined with nets to catch deflections.

Eidgenössische Hornusserverband is somewhat misleading because it is almost exclusively a German-speaking affair. Hornussen is not compulsory in the ESAF, but Schwingen and Steinstossen are. The national gymnastics federation was part of the ESAF, but this sport has long since organised its national competitions.

The Prize-giving ceremony for Hornussen with banners of clubs with ‘Schindel’. Photo: TES.

Organisation

It is the biggest sporting event in terms of the number of visitors (about 400 000 visitors in three days), the construction of a vast temporary stadium (for three days!) for more than 50 000 spectators (!) and a party area of no less than 70 hectares with chalets, party tents, stables for animals, medical care, restaurants, bars, stalls, VIPS and other guests, offices for ticket sales, staff and personnel, space for prize-giving, sanitary facilities, beautifully designed wooden water wells and stands for merchandise, sponsors and numerous companies and organisations.

The local organisation by a village of the size of Pratteln does the actual work and is in charge of implementing under the auspices of the national EASF organisation.

The National Championship in Schwingen

The ESAF revolves around Schwingen. Steinstossen is a compulsory event, but takes place in a remote location. Hornussen is not mandatory; nowadays, it is held at the ESAF as the national championship. However, the enthusiasm of the many teams is extraordinary.

The Schwingen takes place in the sold-out stadium. 280 Schwingers participate. Female Schwinger has a separate tournament on a much smaller scale the week before.

After several preliminary qualifications, the final takes place on Sunday afternoon in front of 50 000 spectators in the stadium, with one million watching the spectacle at home and hundreds of thousands following the contest via public viewing on the festival grounds and in the country.

Bilingualism

German and French are the languages of the website and the speaker in the stadium. The number of French-speaking participants in the competition is 20, and in and around the stadium, an estimated 10 000 French-speaking Swiss attend the event. It is, thus, to a large extent, a German-speaking affair.

Nevertheless, every 15 years, the ESAF occurs in a (predominantly) French-speaking canton, most recently in 2016 in the French-speaking Estavayer-le-Lac (Canton of Fribourg). 

Conclusion

The cow or bull may not be so ‘Woke’ in the Netherlands anymore, but at the ESAF, it is the most prestigious main prize, apart from a large amount of money. The best ten Schwingers in the country make a good living through sponsorship and advertising activities. Some of them are already almost as plastered as Formula I drivers.

Pauline Wayne II

What impresses the objective observer most is (again) the relaxed organisation and atmosphere, cheerfulness, and the many musical performances, from disco, performances of Swiss horns, brass bands, and jazz to lighter (dance) music until the early morning. The numerous sanitary facilities are also cleaned frequently, and cleaning crews are permanently present. 

Not only are Schwingen or Hornussen typically Swiss, but the event, the party and the organisation are Swissness at their best.

Spiez Castle

Traces of settlement in the Spiez area (Canton of Bern) date back to the prehistoric period. There are also traces of a Celtic settlement. It is assumed that the area of the castle was already occupied and fortified by the German-speaking Alemanni in the 7th century.

Spiez was first mentioned in the last will of Bishop Heddo of Strasbourg (circa 697-776). He gave the church and its rights to the Alsatian cloister in Ettenheim (Alsace).

The castle’s history was shaped for almost 700 years by three families: the barons of Strättligen, the lords of Bubenberg, and the von Erlachs from Bern.

The first proprietors of the Barony and Castle of Spiez were the Barons von Strättligen in the mid-13th century. This dynasty sold the barony and castle of Spiez to the lords of Bubenberg in 1338.

The Bubenbergs were one of the leading families in Bern. They sold the property to the von Erlach family in 1516. The Erlachs owned the castle for nine generations. In 1879, Hermann Karl von Wilke (1827-1896) purchased the castle on the Lake of Thun (Thunersee).

The garden, reconstruction. Photo: TES

He extended and renovated the complex. Rosina Magdalena Gemuseus-Riggenbach (1831-1919) of Basel and Dr. Wilhelm Schiess (1869-1929) were the last owners.

The Spiez Castle Foundation (Stiftung Schloss Spiez) maintains the castle and garden.

(Source and further information: Home (schloss-spiez.ch)

Pratteln

Pratteln is the site of the oldest evidence of human presence on Swiss territory. The hand axe discovered in 1974 is at least 100,000 years old. The name Bratello was first mentioned in 1103. It can be traced back to the Latin word pratellum (small meadow).

The village dates back to a dinghof of the monastery of St. Alban and to the possession of the lords of Eptingen. In the 11th or 12th century, they built the first castle, which was destroyed in the 1356 earthquake. After the earthquake, they built the present castle in the village.

In 1384 and 1486, the village was destroyed by war. Basel acquired the village in 1525. Since 1833, Pratteln has been part of the canton of Basel-Landschaft.

(Source and further information: www.pratteln.ch)