Author: Maarten Koning

Fürstenau and Ortenstein

Fürstenau (Farschno in Romansh, canton of Graubünden) in Domleschg, along the Hinterrhein, is a medieval town with around 300 inhabitants. It is considered the smallest city in Switzerland, and possibly in the world.

Fürstenau appeared after the Bishop of Chur became Prince of the Holy Roman Empire. A bishop with the title of prince is first attested in 1170, as in the case of Prince-Bishop Egino von Ehrenfel. Bishops were both spiritual and secular lords. In 1257, the name Fürstenau was first mentioned in connection with an episcopal charter.

In the Middle Ages, the Bishop of Chur became the most important secular ruler of the region. The building of castles is related to this development. Fürstenau was conceived as the centre of the bishop’s lordship rights in Domleschg and on the Heinzenberg, adjacent to the sphere of power of the barons of Vaz and their castles Alt-Sins (Canova) and Ortenstein.

The small town was not only of great importance as a trading and marketplace, but it had also become the centre of princely possessions in the upper part of the Domleschg. The bishop often resided in Fürstenau for these reasons.

The founding of the Free State of the Three Leagues (Freitstaat der Drei Bünde)) and the Articles of IIlanz of 1524 and 1526 curtailed the political power of the bishop. The confessional and lordly relations were newly regulated, but there was no change in the possession and existence of the bishopric, which explains its long presence in Fürstenau until 1877.

The Evangelical church (1354)

Domleschg is renowned for its mild climate and extensive orchards of thousands of fruit trees. 120 apple and 30 pear varieties thrive on the high-trunk trees. Domleschg fruits were (and still are) very much in demand. The Russian Tsar is said to have particularly favoured apples from Domleschg.

Schauenstein, a hotel nowadays

The city has two castles (Schauenstein or Oberes Schloss) and the bishop’s castle (Unteres Schloss). Other notable buildings include the bishop’s palace (the Meierhaus), the merchant building (the Stoffelhaus, featuring Gothic frescoes from the fourteenth century), the church from 1354, and other structures that lend the town its urban character.

(Source and further information: Kathrin Gurtner. Fürstenau. Stadt in Kleinformat. Gesellschaft für Schweizerische Kunstgeschichte, Bern2001;  www.fuerstenau.ch)

Lords von Vaz built the  Ortenstein Castle in the 13th century. The castle is privately owned nowadays.

Romansh in and outside Graubünden

From 24 to 28 July, the language course in Vallader, one of the five main idioms of Romansh, took place in Scuol (canton of Graubünden). Lia Rumantscha, in collaboration with Uniun dals Grischs, welcomed 150 participants from the French, German and Italian-speaking regions of Switzerland and abroad.

The first Bible in Vallader, Scuol, 1671. Museum d’Engiadina Bassa

Lia Rumantscha also launched the project “Rumantsch en la diaspora“. This project aims to establish cooperation with and for Romansh-speaking communities and others interested outside Graubünden.

To date, five organisations have been set up. They are based in Basel, Bern, Lucerne, St. Gallen/Appenzell and Winterthur. They have been organising various events since the autumn of 2022.

St. Müstair

The annual Vallader autumn course will take place in St. Müstair from October 9 to 13, 2023.

(Source and further information: www.liarumantscha.ch and the Uniun dals Grischs).

Ardez

Sent

The Inn (L’En in Romansh) and Hotel Belvédère in Scuol 

Ftan

Altstätten

Altstätten (Canton of St. Gallen) has a rich history. The many beautiful medieval and baroque houses, as well as the Placidus chapel, bear witness to this past.

In 853, Altstätten was first mentioned in a document as “villa nominata altsteti” (villa named old place). The Monastery of St. Gallen owned numerous properties in Altstätten (the old town).

In the 13th century, Abbot Berchtold von Falkenstein (abbot from 1244-1272) fortified Altstätten with a wall to protect the town from the Counts of Montfort, who had settled on the right bank of the Rhine. From 1298, it became an officially recognised town. The name “Altstätten” appeared in 1444.

In the 18th century, Altstätten experienced an economic boom with the textile trade. Its prosperity can still be seen in the many baroque public buildings and private houses. Altstätten is also the carnival stronghold (Fasnacht) of the Rhine valley of St.Gallen.

(Source: www.altstaetten.ch).

The Politics and Government of Switzerland

The Politics and Government of Switzerland is a study of Swiss politics. It offers wide coverage of Swiss political forces, processes and policies.

The author argues that Switzerland is a vibrant and pluralist country with increasingly competitive politics. However, it still retains some distinctive characteristics like direct democracy. The Swiss people play, for example, a much larger role than people in other countries.

Clive H. Church, The Politics and Government of Switzerland, London, 2004

99th Congress of the Swiss Abroad

Once a year, the Organisation of the Swiss Abroad SwissCommunity (Organisation des Suisses de l’étranger/Auslandschweizer-Organisation) organises a congress for Swiss citizens living abroad.

The  99th Congress of the Swiss Abroad takes place from 18 to 20 August 2023 in St. Gallen. Every year a different region of Switzerland hosts the congress.

The participants meet compatriots from around the world, discuss topical themes, inform themselves about developments in Switzerland, talk about their own experiences and get to know Swiss personalities from the economy, politics, education, arts and other sectors of society.

This year’s plenary session on Saturday is dedicated to the federal elections 2023 in the morning and Swiss culture abroad in the afternoon.

Source and further information: Organisation of the Swiss Abroad

PS: The Third Congress of Young Swiss Abroad will take place online on 24 June

The multifaceted Basel Tattoo

The 16th edition of Basel Tattoo brings formations from five continents (North and South America, Africa, Oceania and Europe) to the Arena at the Kasernenhof until 22 July and organised the annual Parade on 15 July.

The Basel Tattoo is much more than a Tattoo. Its origins are also linked to the Basel Fasnacht (UNESCO World Heritage), a centuries-old tradition. The Fasnacht has created several musical top formations. One of these groups has enjoyed world fame for several years, the Top Secret Drum Corps, founded in 1991 by talented and enthusiastic drummers.

Some members of this formation subsequently created the Basel Tattoo, which was partly inspired by other Tattoos, mainly in Edinburgh. However, the Basel Tattoo is not a copy of other similar events but has developed its own style and characteristics. The Basel Tattoo is now one of the largest in the world.

The involvement of military formations is evident. Otherwise, it would no longer be a Tattoo. Apart from that, however, there are original, creative and perhaps even ‘typically Swiss’ aspects. It is not the excellent organisation, planning and a subdued and convivial atmosphere. It is the programme.

Basel Tattoo 2022

At which Tattoo do farmers and their cows present themselves to the public, does the historical and cultural context have a prominent place, and is so much time and effort devoted to showcasing not only formations from other continents and countries but also from other cantons?

The historical links between Scotland and Canada were reflected in a trilogy of Scottish emigration (about half a million people) to Canada. A musical performance with singing addressed successively the ‘Verelendung’ in Scotland, the (harsh) journey overseas and the arduous task of building a new life in a foreign country. Scottish culture, however, has always been preserved. The formations of Pipers and Drums, the Scottish Act, and the dancers of the Canadian Celtic Highland Dancers testify to the special relationship.

This relationship was also evident in the carrying of the Canadian flag by Canadian Mounties, the unfurling by the dancers and the contribution of Scottish and Canadian Pipers and Drums. A similar ceremony for the Scottish flag took place later that evening.

English and Scottish pipers and drums commemorated another event: the heroic resistance of a Scottish division in the dark days following the evacuation of British (and French) troops from Dunkirk in late May and early June 1940. The bagpiper on one of the barracks’ towers was the conclusion to this tribute.

The formation of the brave army from Ukraine transformed their contribution into an original show, commemorating the current tragedy in their country with an emotional musical piece.

The colourful, choreographed and musical performances by the formations from the Sultanate of Oman and Mexico were other highlights with their touches and style.

The New Zealand ‘Kiwis’ made it a swinging pop performance, concluding with the traditional Haka dance.

However, the Basel Tattoo is not only international in scope but also focuses on its roots: Basel, the cantons and Switzerland. The opening ceremony already symbolised the relationship with the country. Under the watchful eye of their commander-in-chief, Army recruits from the Swiss army (Die Rekruten des Schweizer Militärmusik) displayed their talents, with the canton and the city of Lucerne also in attendance. The Basel Tattoo choir and the (unique) Tattoo guard were the input from Basel.

The musical direction was (again) in the hands of Christoph Walter, who also conducted the Tattoo ballad. The closing ceremony, with about a thousand performers, was as impressive as the sum of the individual formations.

However, this closing ceremony is always followed by the annual Parade in the city, a kilometre-long musical festivity. Other cantons and foreign regions were represented, including Geneva, Freiburg, Basel-Landschaft, the Inner Schwyz, Ticino, Jura, and Valais, as well as Baden from Germany. The Parade did not lack some representations from the Fasnacht.

In short, the Basel Tattoo has its character and style and is an intercontinental, international, European, national, regional, intercantonal and local event.

In terms of content, it is also a ‘typically Swiss’ event. Open, cosmopolitan, and multicultural outwardly, while inwardly preserving and respecting identity, culture, and history.

(Further information: Basel Tattoo.)

Impressions from the Basel Tattoo Parade

The Basel Tattoo Garde

The (milice) army is highly respected in Switzerland

The recruits of the Swiss army (Die Rekruten des Schweizer Militärmusik)

Das Museum fur Musikautomaten Basel

The Johann Peter Hebel Society from Hausen (Germany)

The Basel Tattoo Choir

Susch, Flüela Pass, Muzeum Susch and Jörg Jenatsch

The village of Susch (Canton Graubünden) lies at the foot of the Flüela Pass, at the entrance to the Vereina Tunnel and on the River Inn. The towers of La Tuor and La Praschun, along with the steeple of the Gothic church of St. John, characterise the village. The name was first mentioned in a document in 1161 as Susis.

The Rohan fortress was built by the commanders Duke Henri of Rohan (1579-1638) and Jörg Jenatsch (1596-1639) during the Grisons turmoil (1619-1639) in 1635.

Muzeum Susch

Until the Engadine line of the Rhaetian Railway was opened in 1913, the population primarily relied on traffic over the Flüela Pass and agriculture for their livelihood. Today, tourism, the Muzeum Susch and a health clinic are essential economic activities.

(Source and further information: Susch, Gemeinde Zernez)

The Flüelapass

The Romainmôtier Monastery

The village of Romainmôtier (canton of Vaud) offers an exceptional cultural landscape. The abbey church of Romainmôtier is a marvel of Romanesque and Gothic art.

Around 450, the monk Romanus founded a monastery on the site of today’s Romainmôtier. Sources are lacking until the mid-8th century. Only the monk Bobbio (600-659) mentions the monastery in his Vita on the Irish monk Columban (540-615).

Pope Stephen II (pope from 752 to 757), on his way to the Frankish king Peppin (714-768), stopped at Romainmôtier and placed the monastery under Rome’s direct authority and protection.

In 928 or 929, the monastery was transferred to the abbey of Cluny (founded in 910. The 11th to 13th centuries were marked by continuous land expansion and the foundation of small priories on distant estates controlled by the abbey.

The Romanesque church’s predecessors were two smaller hall churches with an apse. The takeover of Cluny prompted significant renovations, which were carried out in several phases.

The main construction phases took place under the supervision of Abbot Odilo (Abbot of Cluny, 993-1048). They were modelled on the second building of the mother church, Cluny II (Cluny III was built between 1088 and 1130). The church was extended on the west side a few years after its construction. The first Gothic building, a small portal to the west, dates back to the mid-13th century.

Due to the Reformation in 1537 (after Bern’s occupation), many monastery buildings were demolished. Only the church and the cruciform chapel remained.

The various stages of construction are still visible on the outside. The exterior walls are structured with pilaster mouldings and blind arcades typical of the Romanesque period. However, the north facade of the transept is the only entirely preserved Romanesque part.

The west facade is hidden from view by the mighty structure of the church, dating back to the third quarter of the 11th century. The rectangular Gothic choir forms the eastern end of the church.

The richly decorated interior, featuring capitals with knobs, leaves, and palms, as well as mythical animals, relief bands with rosettes, lily flowers, and vines, barrel vaults, arches, and columns, archivolts, murals, and sculptures, has remained intact since the 13th century.

The documentary “Romainmôtier Revisité” is a journey back to the foundation of one of Switzerland’s oldest monasteries and churches.

(Source: Philippe Jaton, Die ehemalige Klosterkirche Romainmôtier (Bern 2007): Klaus Kissling, Romainmôtier historique, Notre histoire, Oktober 2015).

Chapel Notre-Dame-du-Haut, Le Corbusier and Renzo Piano

The hill’s location at the Burgundian Gate’s entrance (” Trouée de Belfort “) is a natural passageway from the Saône plain to Alsace. Pilgrimages near Ronchamp were already mentioned in the 11th century. Today’s pilgrimage takes place on 15 August (Assumption Day).

After the French Revolution in 1789, the old chapel was sold and has been private property ever since. The chapel was remodelled and extended several times between the Revolution of 1789 and the Second World War (1939-1945). The chapel was destroyed in 1944 during World War II.

The monastery

Construction of the new Notre Dame-du-Haut chapel began at the end of 1953, designed by Le Corbusier (1887-1966). The community of the Poor Clare Sisters live in the new convent, which was built by the Italian architect Renzo Piano in 2005.

The Pyramid

The pyramid was built from the remaining stones of the demolished chapel shortly before the chapel was consecrated. It is a memorial to the heavy fighting on the hill in 1944, built at the request of the veterans of Ronchamp.

(Source and further information: Chapel de Notre Dame-du-Haut)