Hasburg and Switzerland

The “Havichsburg”, the castle of the hawk, was first mentioned 900 years ago. The castle and the village of Habsburg in what is now the canton of Aargau still exist. It is hard to imagine that the mighty House of Habsburg started in this castle.

The Habsburgs lost their territories in present-day Switzerland in 1415 (Aargau), Thurgau (1460) and after their defeat in the Swabian War (Schwabenkrieg, 1499). However, Austria handed over the last properties on Swiss soil (Tarasp and Rhäzuns in the canton of Graubünden) to the canton in 1803, respectively 1819.

However, the House of Habsburg became the dominant power in Europe and remained in power until 1918. They were also the emperors of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation until 1806.

New perspectives emerge when the origins of the Swiss Confederation in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries are told from the Habsburg areas, from Aargau, Thurgau and Alsace.

The hardcore of the Swiss Confederacy (Eidgenossenschaft) in Central Switzerland (Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden) became part of a power game in which emperors and kings, Savoy, Tyrol, Bern, Lucerne and Zurich played a role.

The book (German language) tells the story of the rise of the Habsburgs, their relationship with their ‘Swiss’ territories and the emerging Confederation of sovereign cantons.

(Bruno Meier, Ein Königshaus aus der Schweiz. Die Habsburger, der Aaugau und die Eidgenossenschaft im Mittelalter, Baden, 2008).

The Protection of the Swiss Landscape and Nature

Every country has its rural beauty and nature. In western countries, a few generations are involved in protecting them from human intervention. Every country has its perspective, organisation and experts.

It is always helpful to learn from experiences and insights in other countries. The book offers a wealth of information, documentation and practical examples that may interest all countries. The author insists that the landscape and nature are the basis of the country’s development rather than human activities.

In the book’s first part, the author takes the reader through the history of landscape protection in the post-war decades. He discusses the successes and setbacks, using Switzerland as an example.

In the second part, he concentrates on the rescue of twelve landscapes.

In the third part, the German-language book offers suggestions for the responsible handling of nature and landscape.

For the author, the political commitment of the population is crucial. The engagement of citizens saved many landscapes.

Hanss Weiss, Achtung: Landschaft Schweiz. Vom nachhaltigen Umgang mit unserer wichtigsten Ressource, Zurich 2020.

Chinese contemporary art in Mauensee Castle

Castle Mauensee (Canton of Lucerne) was first mentioned in 1184 and again in 1340. Lucerne acquired ownership of the castle in 1455. However, two years later, the castle and the lake were sold again and changed hands several times over the following centuries.

The present castle was built in 1605. In the following centuries, ownership changed several times. Since 1998, the castle, the island, and the lake have been owned and inhabited by the Sigg family.

Ulrich Adolf Sigg (1946), Switzerland’s ambassador to China from 1995 to 1998, began collecting Chinese contemporary art in the 1970s, a time when interest in the genre was limited. For a few decades, he amassed the world’s most significant collection of contemporary Chinese art.

The island is not open to the public and is accessible only by a bridge connecting it to the mainland.

(Source and further information: www.mauensee.ch).

The Cardinal and Absinthe in Neuchâtel

The renowned Brasserie du Cardinal de Fribourg is situated at the foot of Neuchâtel Castle, between the city’s historic mills and the banks of the Seyon.

The interior of the current restaurant has retained most of its Art Nouveau decor from 1905. It is typical of the Belle Époque: a unique imaginary pattern of coloured earthenware tiles, mouldings and colourful motifs engraved on the glass. The exterior façade, also from 1905, is a cultural heritage site.

The Brasserie also has an absinthe tasting room. Absinthe, a strong alcoholic drink (the Green Fee (die Grüne Fee, la Fée verte)) from the region, was banned for a long time (1910-2005), contributing to its worldwide reputation.

The Maison de l’Absinthe in Môtiers, Val-de-Travers (canton of Neuchâtel), offers a historical overview of the history and the drink. Visitors can also have a drink there.

(Source: www.neuchateltourisme.ch/belle-epoque).

The Dreamed City of Basel

The dreamed city. (Die geträumte Stadt) The exhibition’s title is “Klingental” at the former monastery in Klingental (Museum Kleines Klingental) in Basel. The title is open to two interpretations. A dream can be a vision that is never realised or a dream that becomes a reality (or a nightmare).

Both possibilities apply to Basel and probably to any city. However, even the city’s constant factor, the Rhine, was not immune to city planners. In 1932, a plan was to divert the river around the town and build Rheinhatten.

The project was never realised, but it was not an unrealistic plan. The realised Juragewässerkorrektion (La correction des eaux du Jura, (see also Swiss Spectator of 16 June 2020) in the years 1868 to 1891, the partly realised canal between the Rhine and Lake Geneva ( Swiss Spectator of 9 January 2022) and the unrealised shipping route over the Gotthard ( Swiss Spectator of 22 March 2021) show the possibilities and impossibilities.

Moreover, the Rhine connects Switzerland with the Netherlands and, indirectly, Basel with Amsterdam. In Basel, there were advanced plans in the 1950s to the 1960s for a motorway through the old city centre. In Amsterdam, the municipality wanted a motorway straight through the city centre. Even the Rembrandt House was on the verge of demolition.

Fortunately, however, dreams are not always deceiving. Various projects in Basel have been successfully realised. The exhibition showcases 150 years of plans, designs, rejections, failures, successes, referendums, and realised and unrealised building projects.

The medieval town centre remains largely intact on the Münster, the Spalenberg, and the area around the Leonardskirche and St. Alban. The cathedral towers (1071, rebuilt in 1500 after the devastating earthquake of 1356) were the city’s first ‘skyscraper’. The most recent sky-high tower is the second Roche tower (2020). The first one was built in 2015.

However, the two Roche towers are rarely featured on postcards or in combination with the cathedral towers, even though they share a common characteristic: they have an uneven height, just like the cathedral towers. Roche, however, will get its third tower in a few years. The cathedral will certainly not.

(Source and further information: www.mkk.ch).

The Wauwiler Plain and Climate Change

The planet Earth is about four billion years old. Humankind is one of the most recent species, approximately 300,000 years old.

Twenty million years before the arrival of Homo sapiens, the territory of the present-day canton of Lucerne was an ocean with subtropical sea coasts. The remains of fossilised shells and palm leaves in rocks at altitudes of up to 1,000-1,500 metres bear witness to this situation.

Twenty thousand years ago, however, the canton lay under an eight hundred to one thousand metre thick layer of ice and snow from glaciers. The Gletschergarten in Lucerne (www.gletschergarten.ch) provides an impressive and multifaceted overview of this (geographically) recent history of climate change over time.

These climate changes can also be observed on a hike through the Wauwiler Plain (Die Wauwiler Ebene) and the lake areas of Mauensee and Sempachersee in the canton of Lucerne.

In the Netherlands, when one thinks of peat bogs, one thinks first of the peat lakes in the Netherlands, but not of central Switzerland.

However, in the canton of Lucerne, there is a large area of peat,  the Wauwilermoos and the Hagimoos, where peat was extracted on a large scale until the beginning of the 20th century.

The area was formed when temperatures rose after the last Ice Age, around 12,000 years ago. A side arm of the enormous Reuss Glacier, up to 800 metres high and several kilometres wide, slowly melted away around 14,000-12,000 years ago.

There were three lakes, the Wauwilersee, the Hagimoosee and the Mauensee. Only the Mauensee still exists today; the others have dried up, leaving behind a swampy area, the Wauwilermoos and the Hagimoos.

During this period, the first hunters and nomads arrived. Hunting, fishing and primitive dwellings and caves provided the first necessities of life. Only after further climate warming did the first sedentary settlements and farming appear around 5,000 B.C. in this region.

The vegetation changed, and higher areas became suitable for agriculture. It was also an ideal habitat for fish, wildlife and grazers. The lower areas were too swampy for agriculture, but they provided a suitable habitat for flora and fauna. More and more people inhabited this area from 10,000 B.C. onwards.

The Wauwiler Ebene is even one of the most important archaeological sites from the Middle Stone Age (Mesolithic) in Central Europe (c. 10,000- c. 4,000 B.C.). About thirty settlements are known from this period. They were located along the shores of lakes and swamps.

The lake dwellings of the Neolithic period (4000-2000-800 B.C.) are reminders of these settlements. In Wauwil, an information pavilion and replicas of these dwellings, along with the inhabitants’ way of life, have been realised.

This history in the Wauwiler Ebene, a relatively unknown area outside Switzerland, brings humankind into the all-mighty nature’s perspective.

(Source and further information: www.wauwil.ch).

The Swiss Alpine Club

The Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC/Club Alpin Suisse, CAS) regularly organises hiking trips in this region (and elsewhere).

Although the name suggests otherwise, the SAC not only organises ski tours, mountaineering and other sports in the high mountains and the Alps but also (hiking) activities in other regions.

Proofreader: Adrian Dubock

The Genesis of the Swiss Confederation

The genesis of the Swiss Confederation (Eidgenossenschaft) is often directly linked to the agreement between the three cantons of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden (today’s cantons of Obwalden and Nidwalden) in 1291.

However, the decisive events for the Confederation took place in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The first joint administration (Gemeine Herrschaften) of occupied territories (Untertanengebiete), the resolution of the conflict between cantons in the Alte Zürichkrieg (1440-1446), the victories in the Burgunderkriege (1476-1477), the compromise in the Stanser Verkommnis (1481) and the victory in the Swabenkrieg (1499) led to a new sovereign political entity. 

The great powers also recognised the Swiss Confederation (Eidgenossenschaft).

The book in the German language gives a detailed overview of this period, documents it richly with sources and places this story of history in the cultural landscape of Switzerland in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Kurt Messmer, Die Kunst des Möglichen. Zur Entstehung der Eidgenossenschaft im 15. Jahrhundert, Baden, 2018.

The Knonauer District and Maschwanden

The Eschenbach family founded the castle and town of “Maswandon” in the thirteenth century. Their castle was the Schnadelburg in the Albis region.

Maschwanden was first mentioned in a document in 1260. The town was destroyed by the Habsburgs in 1309 as revenge for the participation of Walther IV von Eschenbach in the murder of King Albrecht of Habsburg (1255-1308). The King is buried in the monastery church Königsfelden in Windisch.

The Lords of Hallwyl acquired Maschwanden in 1339. The city of Zurich succeeded in 1406. The church, dating back to 1505, is a typical late Gothic Zurich country church. The stained glass windows from 1505 are renowned and can be viewed today at the Landesmuseum in Zurich.

From the beginning of the 15th century until the Reformation (1525-1530), Zurich gradually gained dominion over all the areas between the mountain Albis and the river Reuss.

After the conquest of the Aargau in 1415, Zürich annexed the Freiamt Affoltern Steinhausen, Aesch, Birmensdorf-Oberurdorf, Hedingen, the manor of Knonau, Wettswil-Stallikon and finally Bonstetten in 1538.  In its present boundaries, the district of Knonauer Amt was created in 1814.

The Maschwander Allmend and the nature reserve Rüssspitz, located between the Reuss and Lorze rivers, are among the last extensive grassland plains in the Swiss Mittelland.

Vast meadows characterise the area with free-standing willows and a floodplain forest. It is part of the Zürcher Reusstal, a nature reserve connected to the Aargau Reusstal.

(Source and further information: www.knonauer-amt.ch).

The Wettingen Monastery and Museum

The Monastery of Wettingen (Canton of Aargau) dates back to the 13th century. The Cistercian monastery was founded in 1227 by Count Heinrich II of Rapperswil. The convent on the half-island had estates, gardens and vineyards.  Together with the former monastery Fahr, it was the largest landowner and economic power in the Limmattal.

A fire destroyed the monastery in 1507. The greatest danger, however, was the Reformation in 1529. Most monks converted to the new faith and left the monastery. 

The new abbot, Peter Schmid (1559-1633), appointed in 1594, successfully restored the monastery to its former glory. He renovated old buildings and constructed many new ones. Until the French invasion of the Swiss Confederation in 1798, the monastery experienced a period of prosperity again in the predominantly Protestant Aargau. 

The area that is today’s Canton of Aargau (founded in 1803 by Napoleon’s Mediation Act) was governed from 1415 to 1798 by the Catholic and Protestant members of the Swiss Confederation, also known as the Eidgenossenschaft. This cooperation and the possibility of choosing one’s religion were already unique in Europe until 1798. 

In 1799, the monastery was located in a war zone and was forced to accommodate officers and soldiers from the French, Austrian, and Russian armies.

After the foundation of the new Confederation in 1815 (by the Bundesbrief), the mood towards the (rich) monasteries worsened in the canton. Aarau’s parliament (Grosser Rat) decided in 1841 to dissolve the monasteries. The Cistercian monks of Wettingen found a new home in Mehrerau, near Bregenz, Austria. 

The monastery buildings were used for a teachers’ seminary. In 1976, the cantonal school was founded. From 1 April 2022, the Aargau Museum will open rooms for temporary exhibitions in the monastery complex.  

(Source and further information: www.museumaargau.ch/klosterhalbinsel-wettingen)

The current bridges over the Limmat from Neuenhof to Wettingen

The Grubenmann-Bridge in 1795. Collection: SNM LM-81832

The original bridge, built in 1765, was destroyed in 1798. However, its reputation reached as far as England (report from 1789)! The new wooden bridge of 1818 and the iron bridge (1886) were the replacements.